Does anyone have some proven manufacturer's numbers for the bearings and seals on a 642? My guess is that they are common Timkin and/or National items available through good truck parts or industrial supply houses. From what I have gathered, I believe the Bobcat P/N for the axle seal is 6660126, the bearing sets: 3974866, but this is second hand, I do not have the benefit of a parts manual. Thank you in advance
Axle seal and bearings on a Bobcat 642
- Thread starter Babongo
- Start date
I just replaced the bearings, seals and wear rings on my 742. Not sure if they are the same as your 642 though. I will tell you however that Bobcat had the cheapest prices on the seals at about $9.00 each. Not sure how much they charge for bearings or what country your in. The have reasonable shipping in the U.S.. I suggest varifing any numbers that you get from Bobcat or a parts manual before purchasing. The old bearings and races that you pull should have the numbers on them. Here are the 742 numbers just in case they are the same: Axel seal 6513277, bearing 6519925 (Timkin LM 104949), race 6519926 (Timkin LM104912), wear ring 6558477. The seals are hard to find on-line and as I said the cheapest place I found them was Bobcat. The bearings and races I purchased at rockauto.com. The bearing and race were both about $7.50 each. The wear rings I got from Bobcat and they were about $25.00 each. Make sure you have no end play in the axel after you reinstall them. You can do as others like Tazza and machine a recess in the existing washer or you can get them fron Bobcat in .005 to .010 (6563606) and .020 (6568835) recesses but be warned they are over $50 each. Of course if you are unlucky like me and don't have access a lathe then you are better of just ordering them instead of paying someone else to do it. By the way If you have never done this job before there are some great photos on this forum of people who took out the chain case instead of the motor and pump. Mainly on 743's. This is the way I went and I must say once the chain case is out it is very easy to work on.
Thank you for that post, Bridge. Do you have the Bobcat P/N for the bearing "set", both bearing and race? Did you mic out your wear rings, or was there visible wear? The service manual for my 642 does indicate that chain removal is a prerequisite for the axle work. In my case, we have to shorten/replace the LF chain any way. Unfortunately, I am without the benefit of a well-stocked Bobcat dealer nearby. It usually takes them 6-8 hrs to return a telephone parts inquiry, and the eventual answer is something like "we can get it from another Bobcat dealer, but there will be an additional shipping charge".
I second the RockAuto idea. Thats where i got mine. I got my wear sleeves from advance auto online. You could get bearings and all from them. They are reasonable. Loader parts .com sells a kit for the axles also. Not to bad to change if you have the tools. Take one axle apart and get your numbers off of the bearings if you cant get them figured out. I bought a seal driver kit from harbour freight and a piece of all thread to put the races(cups) in. pretty cheap and easy.
AD, Please post the part numbers for the wear sleeves and any other parts that you found at Advance or Rock Auto. I would like to compile a database with a listing of the stock Bobcat P/Ns with corresponding aftermarket parts. Keep in mind that in many locations, the staff at a parts store may not have the skills to track down a part with a just a manufacturer's number. So if someone was in a bind for a part, it would be good to have as much info as possible. Thanks.
My parts manual does not have a PN for the bearing "set". I did not mic the wear rings and they did not have visable wear. Since I had the axels out I figured I may as well replace them as insurance though. I deal with Bobcat West and they look up the part while I'm on the phone with them. If they don't have the part they either get it from another dealer on the West coast or they have the Bobcat factory ship it directly to me. The manuals, a lot of the time, will have you remove things that you really do not need to. You need to just take your time, use the manual as a guide, and make sure that you only remove what you have to to make the job easier, not harder. For example... the manual does not tell you to remove the chain case to replace the axel seals... but instead it has you remove the pump, which works, but with the chain case completely removed you get sooooooo much more room to work and you also do not have to remove the controlls.
mahans7
Well-known member
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- Aug 22, 2012
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Does anybody have pictures of this process, especially the replacement of the wear rings and races? I've read here about the different devices that members are fabricating to do this but I can't really picture what it should look like. If you email me the pictures I'll post them. Thanks.
Sorry no photos but the wear ring replacement is simple... I used a sharp cold steel chisle to tap a line into the wear ring and then using the same chisle you try to spin the ring. Once it begins spinning continue to tap on it and it will spin right off. Be carefull not to damage the surface under the ring or where the bearing seats... To install, slide your seal onto the axle, put some Loctite on the inside of the wear ring and slide it over the axle, then press it the rest of the way on using the new bearing to press it into place.... in other words the wear ring gets pressed on by the bearing as the bearing is pressed on. The races I used a puller for the outers and a large piece of steel bar to knock out the inner races. To replace them I suggest getting a propper sized race setting tool. You can just knock in the outer races. The inner races you will have to get some allthread and use the the race setting tool and a thick piece of steel on the outside and thread it through the axle tube with a nut at either end. Make sure the race starts square and tighten the nuts untill it seats fully. Only advise I can give you about setting the seals is to make sure whatever method you use have everything ready and do a dry run before you install the bearings to make sure it will work. I was scrambling at the last minute and there is nothing more fun then having an axel most of the way in and not being able to get the seal seated. Tazza has said in several old posts to use a bearing race cut in half but I did not have a way of cutting one on hand and I'm not sure how he pressed the seal in with this. I think there used to be some photos in the documents / media part of this web site, but the photos seem to be gone now. I improvised with something I had lying arround. I would like to see some photos of this too. If you woodwork at all you could make a seal tool out of some hardwood. Or I also thought of cutting some steel pipe in half.
I found the cut down bearing cup fitted between the shoulder of the axle and the seal pretty well. I recently worked on another one that the seals were slightly too small. I ended up using 3bond sealant and seating them by hand so they were flush with the outside of the axle tube.
Glad you got something sorted out to seat them, there is always a way
