That's the problem with a lot of older posts, the pics have either been moved or removed from their original host sites. Tazza is still around, maybe he can remember what happened here. Like I tell a lot of people at work, when you are packing sardines, unfortunately, some of them have to go on the bottom. Welcome to the world of skidsteers!! LoL
I should have the photos at home, I will post them again if I can find them.
If you find the photos that would be great. Do you remember if the hose can be disconnected from the box without removing the box? Not much room to work on these particular sardines. Thanks.
Good luck with it. Access is horrible. You should be able to get in there if you shortened a spanner, but then leverage is an issue. Hopefully Luthor can dig the images up for you, when i dealt with mine, the control block was removed from the machine.
Man Luthor you are patient. It would take me weeks to do a 20 hour repair. I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures just in case mine ever goes bad.
After searching 3 computers and all of my memory sticks I have failed to find the pictures in question, sorry guys.
Thanks for checking. I appreciate the effort. I got distracted but hope to get back on this project. 20 hours for you probably means double for me. I will document what I do and post for anyone interested.
Please do post details. I have yet to do one in the machine, would be nice to know how others do it.
I was successful replacing this bottom hydraulic hose. I wrapped-up the project in January and have been meaning to post details on this site. Here is what I learned. I removed the engine when first starting this project thinking we would have better access. This provided little visibility but ended up being helpful. The access by unbolting the cab and lifting it up was where most of the work was accomplished. We started by removing all the rubber hydraulic lines possible to get to the rubber line we suspected was leaking. We removed the front steel lines on the tilt-lift box. This rubber hydraulic line referred throughout this post (which I call the nightmare line) is at the bottom of the tilt lift box. We had to unbolt the tilt lift box (two bolt go through the box and nuts secure it on the outside body of the skid loader near the rear wheel. At this point we had removed half the metal lines from the tilt lift box (they were all directly above the nightmare line). From the engine compartment(since the engine was removed) we were able to raise the tilt lift box 1 inch or so off the bottom of the skidloader using a long pry bar and a wood block as a fulcrum. Without raising the tilt lift box the nightmare hose will not turn because it comes in contact with the bottom plate of the skidloader. The access panel between the rear and front tires was removed as well as the rear tire. The lines running the hydrostatic motor were removed and a 1/2 ratchet with extensions, a knuckle socket, downsized to 3/8' was threaded up toward the tilt lift box to a 1-inch crows foot on the nightmare line. After breaking loose the line we used the crows foot and kept the tilt lift box slightly elevated to remove the line. This was a slow painfully process and only turning a little bit each time before sliding the crowsfoot off and repositioning. The line fit so tightly that appeared to me to bind as it was removed. I think the hex end on the nighmare hose rubbed on the housing of the tilt lift box. The new line went on easier and did not seem to bind. It was tighten using the 1-in crows foot and 1/2" ratchet extension, knuckle mentioned above. Everything was reassembled and no leaks to date.
Engine out sure does help. It can be done without, but no where near as easy. It also gives you a chance to clean the engine bay out.
I know this is an old thread, but it was extremely helpful to me. I thought I would post how I handled that hose too, just in case another poor soul like myself happens along
I removed all the hoses to both drive motors and replaced them with new ones on reassembly. This was the 3rd time I was fixing a leak, and figured it was the right time to make everything new. I did this project with engine in place. To remove the hose, I unbolted the block from the frame as other guys stated, and prized it up a bit. Then I reached down with my Dremel with cutoff wheel, and cut the hose off as close to the fitting as possible. I then snaked in a 1" deep well socket with extensions and cracked it loose; that baby was tight. I don't think I could have broken it loose with the crowsfoot. I didn't find it helped to remove the metal lines, so didn't. I did however loosen the bottom fitting and slid it back on the line, thinking it would give me just a bit more clearance for the crowsfoot wrench for installation. When I installed the new hose, I wrapped elec. tape tightly around the junction between the swivel nut and the hose, to keep the the nut from turning. That way I could turn the hose to get the nut started, and then tightened it as much as possible that way too. Then took a razor knife and cut off the tape. Getting it tight was Something.Else. I was able to get a bite going down from the top behind those metal lines, and then another bite with the crowsfoot from underneath, and then was flummoxed. It was soso close to being able to get another bite, but not quite. Finally I cut the end off a cheap 1" box wrench, then cut out a piece of the boxend to make a "flare wrench", and was then able to slide that over the nut. The 3" inch stub left stuck out just enough underneath the bottom metal line to take a 2' piece of pipe and set on it, and then whack it with a hammer, using the pipe as a long punch. Amazingly, the box end didn't spread any. I think it's because it was a cheaper wrench with more metal? After 2 more bites with that, it felt as though it was as tight as it should be. Other notes... I had to dremel off the clamps holding the metal part of the drive motor hoses to the back of the "firewall" as I couldn't get a socket onto the nut. When installing the new lines and clamps, I had to use a longer bolt to squeeze the clamps together, and then put in the proper shorter bolt for final lockdown. If you have a Colliflower Hydraulics shop within driving distance, they have any fitting you could possible need, in case you're a dummy like me and cross the threads on pretty much the easiest fitting to get to on the drive motor. haha It was late and I was tired, what can I say? If I had to do this again (God forbid) it would go much faster, since half my time was spent figuring out how to do this or that. Again, this thread was quite helpful and kept me from making expensive mistakes, I'm sure! Also to any new owners, the parts book is worth it's weight in gold, to me.You did a good job getting it on with minimal items being removed, the only time i have ever done this hows was when the valve was out, so i never had to try and do battle with it in place.I know this is an old thread, but it was extremely helpful to me. I thought I would post how I handled that hose too, just in case another poor soul like myself happens along
