Access to hydraulic hose on 743.

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Luthor

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Nov 15, 2005
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I have traced the source of an oil leak to the hose that goes from the port block to the bottom of the control valve body, the only problem now is how the hell do I get to it to remove and replace it. Has anyone had to change this hose before?
 

Tazza

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That is your return hose, it is evil evil evil to get to, its the one that goes to the bottom of the valve?. I had trouble getting to it when i was installing the control block in my machine that was gutted!.
Your best bet is to drain the hydro fluid and clean the area. I think you will need to remove the port block (if yours has the port block that attaches to the frame with a fat hose that goes to the hydro pump). It will be a very messy job and you will loose a lot of fluid. Really, you will just have to remove any and all hoses that are in your way.
 

skidsteer.ca

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That is your return hose, it is evil evil evil to get to, its the one that goes to the bottom of the valve?. I had trouble getting to it when i was installing the control block in my machine that was gutted!.
Your best bet is to drain the hydro fluid and clean the area. I think you will need to remove the port block (if yours has the port block that attaches to the frame with a fat hose that goes to the hydro pump). It will be a very messy job and you will loose a lot of fluid. Really, you will just have to remove any and all hoses that are in your way.
I have a set of inxexpensive open end wrenches that I have cut off so that they are only 6 or 7" overall length for getting into tight spots like this. Ofter you can use a bar to "lever" against you "shorty" wrench. Putting enough force to tighten or remove it. Also jic female ends that you can't budge, will often come right off if you put somthing for a "dolly" behind the nut and rap it sharply with a hammer on the opposite side of the nut a few times. Good luck Ken
 

Luthor

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I have a set of inxexpensive open end wrenches that I have cut off so that they are only 6 or 7" overall length for getting into tight spots like this. Ofter you can use a bar to "lever" against you "shorty" wrench. Putting enough force to tighten or remove it. Also jic female ends that you can't budge, will often come right off if you put somthing for a "dolly" behind the nut and rap it sharply with a hammer on the opposite side of the nut a few times. Good luck Ken
All fixed now, after approximately 20 hours of hard labor. I will post some pictures of what I had to do to get to this hose later.
 

Eric

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Jan 19, 2005
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All fixed now, after approximately 20 hours of hard labor. I will post some pictures of what I had to do to get to this hose later.
Let me know if you need help posting those photos.
 

Luthor

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OK, I finished my tutorial. I hope it can help everyone. Tell me what you think.
Heres a link
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=2445
This is the hose in question:
10.JPG

Had to remove this:
08.JPG

To get to this:
07.JPG

06.JPG
 

Tazza

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This is the hose in question:

Had To Remove This

To get this
After you went that far to get it fixed, i hope you replaced the bush for the lift arm control (the bar that runs across the chain case to the spool).
I think you did a pretty darn good job getting the spool out without pulling the tube lines out! they are a horrible thing to work on.
Now, for the hydro pump, i found the easiest way to remove it is to un-bolt the front as you did, but the back i removed the whole carrier (that black bit that bolts up under the fuel tank) and un-do the hydro hoses at the motors and just pull the whole lot out. Access to the fittings on the side of the pump is really bad, and at the motors is a dream compaired to that! You will see my pics of my 743 in pieces and the pump still has all 4 hydro hoses attached. The other problem is the metal tube lines that run behind the pump, you need to un-do the clamps holding them to the plate. IF you remove the pump this way, make sure you take note of any spacers between the mounting bracket and the chassis as you MUST keep the pump in allignment with the motor or you can do damage to the pump.
You have done well! i have done all this before, but i cheated, i removed EVERYTHING was alot easier! now the fun part.... putting it all back in :)
As soon as i saw the pic of the hose i knew what one, and i remember how hard it was to install when it was bare! it just refused to bend the rite way to get the thread to start.
Again, nice work
 

Luthor

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Nov 15, 2005
Messages
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After you went that far to get it fixed, i hope you replaced the bush for the lift arm control (the bar that runs across the chain case to the spool).
I think you did a pretty darn good job getting the spool out without pulling the tube lines out! they are a horrible thing to work on.
Now, for the hydro pump, i found the easiest way to remove it is to un-bolt the front as you did, but the back i removed the whole carrier (that black bit that bolts up under the fuel tank) and un-do the hydro hoses at the motors and just pull the whole lot out. Access to the fittings on the side of the pump is really bad, and at the motors is a dream compaired to that! You will see my pics of my 743 in pieces and the pump still has all 4 hydro hoses attached. The other problem is the metal tube lines that run behind the pump, you need to un-do the clamps holding them to the plate. IF you remove the pump this way, make sure you take note of any spacers between the mounting bracket and the chassis as you MUST keep the pump in allignment with the motor or you can do damage to the pump.
You have done well! i have done all this before, but i cheated, i removed EVERYTHING was alot easier! now the fun part.... putting it all back in :)
As soon as i saw the pic of the hose i knew what one, and i remember how hard it was to install when it was bare! it just refused to bend the rite way to get the thread to start.
Again, nice work
Yes Tazza, I did take the opportunity to Overhaul the Lift Arm Spool Actuating Lever. I reamed out the hole in the lever to remove wear and to make a nice round hole and then made an oversized nylon bushing to suit. I also made a new inner bushing and was amazed at how direct the lift arms now respond to pedal movement, not to mention that I can now lock the float position detent with ease.
 

Tazza

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Yes Tazza, I did take the opportunity to Overhaul the Lift Arm Spool Actuating Lever. I reamed out the hole in the lever to remove wear and to make a nice round hole and then made an oversized nylon bushing to suit. I also made a new inner bushing and was amazed at how direct the lift arms now respond to pedal movement, not to mention that I can now lock the float position detent with ease.
GOOD.
I threw my arm in the drill press and drilled the hole to 1 1/8” then made an oversized nylon bush and a new centre piece, worked a treat. My detent also locks in now, but i haven't had a chance to test it, its the one thats still in the re-assembly stage..... Its a shame its in such a bad location, as its such a simple thing to fix, but a nightmare to get access to.
 

Luthor

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GOOD.
I threw my arm in the drill press and drilled the hole to 1 1/8” then made an oversized nylon bush and a new centre piece, worked a treat. My detent also locks in now, but i haven't had a chance to test it, its the one thats still in the re-assembly stage..... Its a shame its in such a bad location, as its such a simple thing to fix, but a nightmare to get access to.
Tazza, why did you have to drill such a big hole? 1 1/8” seems awfully large, was the hole worn that badly, mine cleaned up with only a few thou. being removed.
 

Tazza

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Tazza, why did you have to drill such a big hole? 1 1/8” seems awfully large, was the hole worn that badly, mine cleaned up with only a few thou. being removed.
It was very badly worn..... This poor machine has had a very very hard life, its driving me nuts repairing all the little things. I think the origional hole was 1”, the next size up in drill bits i had was 1 1/8”. The other problem is i don't have any reamers, so i just attacked it with a drill bit. Even with removing that much metal, there is still heaps of *meat* left. The hole really did look like an egg, it was horrible!.
 

paull390

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Nov 12, 2012
Messages
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This is the hose in question:

Had to remove this:

To get to this:
I am working on a 743 with a leaking line and believe the line described in this post is the one I need to loosen. Unfortunately the pictures that were posted in 2006 are not showing up for me. Any suggestions on what is needed to remove this darn hose would be much appreciated. Cheers!
 
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