863 Wiring Harness Bad?

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dvlscapes

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Hi, I am happy to have just found this website. It seems like a good place to trade info. ---- 01 863 Duetz deisel 1400hrs.---- The local bobcat dealer is guessing The wiring harness is bad. I had the machine in for service. The problem was and still is the alternater fuse btwn your legs keeps popping, anytime you run the machine at any rpm besides idle. Got the machine back from bobcat with a $500 bill and they said 2 relays were bad and that was the cause. Fuse kept popping. Brought it back to bobcat. They said the wiring harness was most likely bad and that would be $1300 for the part plus 6hrs labor. They said they could work with the existing wiring and fix any open circuts they find and repair them. They also said they put electrical grease in the fittings. Used the machine today and fuse popped 2wice!! Arrggh I just talked to them and they don't see what my problem is with them and are "seeing" if they could discount the harness at all if I want it installed. Does anyone have any suggestions for me, this is be very costly and frustrating.
 

dvlscapes

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I just wanted to add that the second time I had it in that was another $250 bill, so I have spent total about $1000 including loading and unloading the bobcat and doing the 45minute drive twice. With nothing to show for it.
 

skidsteer.ca

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I just wanted to add that the second time I had it in that was another $250 bill, so I have spent total about $1000 including loading and unloading the bobcat and doing the 45minute drive twice. With nothing to show for it.
How often (hours wise ) are the fuses poping and what loses power when its blown. My first though would be to temp disconect the the functions it powers to see if one of them is the problem.
Ken
 

Tazza

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How often (hours wise ) are the fuses poping and what loses power when its blown. My first though would be to temp disconect the the functions it powers to see if one of them is the problem.
Ken
I would do it like Ken said.
I wouldn't pay that kind of money on a new harness, anyone could run a new wire if there was a short. Surly Bobcat could do that for you if you are un-able to do it your self.
If its just the alternator, it could be as simple as the diode that feeds power to excite the rotor coil. Worst case i'd run a new wire from the dash to the alternator. It could also be an alternator issue, there could be a short in the voltage regulator causing it to draw excessive current.
Good luck with it!
 

dvlscapes

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I would do it like Ken said.
I wouldn't pay that kind of money on a new harness, anyone could run a new wire if there was a short. Surly Bobcat could do that for you if you are un-able to do it your self.
If its just the alternator, it could be as simple as the diode that feeds power to excite the rotor coil. Worst case i'd run a new wire from the dash to the alternator. It could also be an alternator issue, there could be a short in the voltage regulator causing it to draw excessive current.
Good luck with it!
Thanks Guys so far, Yeah I could handle running a simple wire from the dash to the battery if that is a possible fix, I will take another look myself and do some investigating. I certainly don't want to pay for that harness and it seems like there should be a cheaper fix like you guys are suggesting. I'll let you know how it goes
 

skidsteer.ca

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Thanks Guys so far, Yeah I could handle running a simple wire from the dash to the battery if that is a possible fix, I will take another look myself and do some investigating. I certainly don't want to pay for that harness and it seems like there should be a cheaper fix like you guys are suggesting. I'll let you know how it goes
So far you have throw a wad of cash to them and they have ot fixed it either. Start by finding out what quits working if you remove the fuse that blows. Then let us know. We may be able to tell you how to get by without those functions (or some of them) temporarily until you can figure out where the culprit is.
This method takes a little time, and your work may get interupted some, but it gets interupted by hauling the machine back to the dealer and having it not work any better. Safe to say they are not sure what it is either.
Ken
 

siduramaxde

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So far you have throw a wad of cash to them and they have ot fixed it either. Start by finding out what quits working if you remove the fuse that blows. Then let us know. We may be able to tell you how to get by without those functions (or some of them) temporarily until you can figure out where the culprit is.
This method takes a little time, and your work may get interupted some, but it gets interupted by hauling the machine back to the dealer and having it not work any better. Safe to say they are not sure what it is either.
Ken
I'd be asking for my money back if they did not fix the problem. Anyone can throw parts at a problem but it takes a real mechanic to diagnose a problem correctly. Bobcats “guessing game” is costing you money.
 

dvlscapes

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I'd be asking for my money back if they did not fix the problem. Anyone can throw parts at a problem but it takes a real mechanic to diagnose a problem correctly. Bobcats “guessing game” is costing you money.
They have a pretty tough shop forman over there who doesnt seem to budge on stuff very often. I did try though, they claim that because its an electrical problem that is hard to diagnose thats why it costs money and takes time. Sounds like bs to me. I will not be bringing it back to them until I spend some time with it. I will try what has been suggested and report back... Although we are doing a home show this weekend and that has been sucking up all of my time. I will try to have at it early next wk and revisit this post. I have been looking for a site like this for some time now. Thanks
 

dvlscapes

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They have a pretty tough shop forman over there who doesnt seem to budge on stuff very often. I did try though, they claim that because its an electrical problem that is hard to diagnose thats why it costs money and takes time. Sounds like bs to me. I will not be bringing it back to them until I spend some time with it. I will try what has been suggested and report back... Although we are doing a home show this weekend and that has been sucking up all of my time. I will try to have at it early next wk and revisit this post. I have been looking for a site like this for some time now. Thanks
I snooped around in the machine today. It is difficult to see excactly where the wires run and what they are running to because they are wrapped neatly in a tough mesh fabric. My first Question is: There is a possibility that the battery froze over the winter, the charge was real low and I could actually see a buldge in the side of the battery on a real cold day. Could the battery be holding a charge and running the battery but still be the reason for the fuse popping? I have another battery I bought at Wally world i can put in to test if we think that could be a possibility. Seccond Question: It seems like it would be pretty easy to just leave the fuse that has been popping out and run a new power line from the alternator to the battery with a fuse in the line(as suggested on here). Is this as easy as I thnk and is there anything you can think of that I should watch out for?
 

dvlscapes

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I snooped around in the machine today. It is difficult to see excactly where the wires run and what they are running to because they are wrapped neatly in a tough mesh fabric. My first Question is: There is a possibility that the battery froze over the winter, the charge was real low and I could actually see a buldge in the side of the battery on a real cold day. Could the battery be holding a charge and running the battery but still be the reason for the fuse popping? I have another battery I bought at Wally world i can put in to test if we think that could be a possibility. Seccond Question: It seems like it would be pretty easy to just leave the fuse that has been popping out and run a new power line from the alternator to the battery with a fuse in the line(as suggested on here). Is this as easy as I thnk and is there anything you can think of that I should watch out for?
Oh and the only thing that I can tell that doesnt work when you remove that fuse is the charging of the battery.
 

sterlclan

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Oh and the only thing that I can tell that doesnt work when you remove that fuse is the charging of the battery.
Id try the battery at least its a starting point. It could be a dead short in the batt. Good luck Jeff
 

skidsteer.ca

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Id try the battery at least its a starting point. It could be a dead short in the batt. Good luck Jeff
If the only problem is the alternator not charging, that fix is simple. Put a 1 one wire ( self exciting) 60 amp GM delco on and on it and slam the door shut. cost you 50 to 75 bucks
Ken
 

Tazza

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If the only problem is the alternator not charging, that fix is simple. Put a 1 one wire ( self exciting) 60 amp GM delco on and on it and slam the door shut. cost you 50 to 75 bucks
Ken
I like Ken's idea, if you use the one that is on there now you need to wire it up to your ingition switch and install a diode. If you simply wire the exciting wire for the rotor direct to the battery you will drain your battery over night trust me, been there done that............ Of course the machine will be out of reach of your battery charger!
I would doubt the battery was bad as it still starts the machine. The fuse would be on the line that feeds power to the alternator to excite it not the output to the battery. Depending on the state of charge of your battery determines how much power it will draw, but no more than the alternator can put out. B+ on the alternator should be wired direct to the battery, no fuse.
 

dvlscapes

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I like Ken's idea, if you use the one that is on there now you need to wire it up to your ingition switch and install a diode. If you simply wire the exciting wire for the rotor direct to the battery you will drain your battery over night trust me, been there done that............ Of course the machine will be out of reach of your battery charger!
I would doubt the battery was bad as it still starts the machine. The fuse would be on the line that feeds power to the alternator to excite it not the output to the battery. Depending on the state of charge of your battery determines how much power it will draw, but no more than the alternator can put out. B+ on the alternator should be wired direct to the battery, no fuse.
Ken, so what your saying is to replace the alternator w/ the self exciting one u suggest. Use the existing wire that lead to the battery and let the two wires which use to excite the alt. dangle and do nothing. Correct? I hope that alt will fit.
 

Tazza

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Ken, so what your saying is to replace the alternator w/ the self exciting one u suggest. Use the existing wire that lead to the battery and let the two wires which use to excite the alt. dangle and do nothing. Correct? I hope that alt will fit.
With a self exciting alternator all you need is the power cable that runs to the battery, no other wires are required. So yes, just leave the other wire(s) that were used just hang there.
 

Fishfiles

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Did you put a meter on the battery with the engine running to see what the alternator is putting out
 

Motordoc

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Did you put a meter on the battery with the engine running to see what the alternator is putting out
Check to see if the fuse specification requires a “Time-Delay” fuse. These fuses are designed to handle current spikes. If you have a “Fast-Acting” fuse, these will open immediately upon experiencing a current rush.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Check to see if the fuse specification requires a “Time-Delay” fuse. These fuses are designed to handle current spikes. If you have a “Fast-Acting” fuse, these will open immediately upon experiencing a current rush.
Dealer should have caught the time delay fuse if that was a issue, but who knows for sure???
Did I mention the Delco is also a dirrect bolt in for the Mondo alternator that comes factory.
(except on my 853 I had to use the mondo pulley on the delco as it uses a wide fan belt. Also if you use the mondo pulley be sure to put a spacer behind it to avoid bending the delco alternator fan)
Ken
 

dvlscapes

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Dealer should have caught the time delay fuse if that was a issue, but who knows for sure???
Did I mention the Delco is also a dirrect bolt in for the Mondo alternator that comes factory.
(except on my 853 I had to use the mondo pulley on the delco as it uses a wide fan belt. Also if you use the mondo pulley be sure to put a spacer behind it to avoid bending the delco alternator fan)
Ken
Hey all, Well I went to National auto today and they said they need a part # or I have to bring the alt in. I told them what I was looking for, a single wire, delco, 60amp alt. They didn't even know where to start. That is what I want right? Even though the alt in there now is a 90 amp, checked today. The latest update is the parking brake stopped working again. Initially when I brought the bobcat to the dealer, that was one of the things they actually fixed. Even though it was kinda weird, they said there was no parking brake in there. How could there have been no parking brake in there if it was working like two weeks prior? They then said it could have fallen down in the chaincase and should they drain it and look for it, I told them to forget about it. I'm pretty sure The parking brake was working, even when the fuse would blow for the alternator, making me think that they are on separate circuits. Another reason i think that is when I know put a fresh fuse for the alt in , before it pops, the parking brake still does not work. Is there a specific relay or fuse for the brake, I couldnt find it on the little chart. Should I still go ahead and replace the alt even though the brake is now not working? On top of all that we have a slow leak in one of the rear tires and it came off today. The only way I can ever get the bead back on is by putting a shot of gas in the tire, and lighting it with an extension lighter. is that how you guys do it? always makes me nervous.
 
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