853 miscellaneous info

[clr1001]

Tazza, My computer wouldn't cooperate with a reply to you, so I started a new thread. Thanks to you, too, for the quick reply. You must have been typing while I was replying to Ken. I have a friend who is the manager for a huge machine shop less than 10 miles from here, and he has the capability to do anything I think I could ever dream of machine-wise, so he's going to be seeing a lot of me if I decide to do this project! I have already ordered 4 seals (one for each axle and 1 spare -- they were $8 each), and 2 complete sets of bearings (about $100 a set) for the bad axle. I really think I am going to need a new axle shaft unless I could turn some brass or steel to the exact size and make a collar for it. The dealer did tell me it would cost about $550 USD for that new shaft from the dealer. I don't know how much a wheel hub will be, but I'm sure it will be pricey, too, if I buy that from the dealer. What's the best place, in your opinion, to find parts for my machine if I do what you suggest and buy a whole "new" axle shaft and wheel hub? The next time I go to the farm (where the machine is now), I will snap some digital photos so you can more clearly see what's going on. Is all I have to do to get at the chainbox is raise the cabin/seat? That sounds MUCH too easy, lol. I'll let you know if I trade it or fix it. The frosted side of me wants to fix it, but the plain side of me says to just trade it to the dealer for another machine. I actually want a machine that's in the 5000 lbs range rather than the 6500 lbs range that this machine is because I already have a 5000 lb capacity trailer. Any thots on that? I'm just gonna putter around with it--maybe do some light landscaping, some roof repairs to the house, move some equipment around, fill in potholes in the driveway, push some snow, etc, etc. What's your favorite machine (Bobcat) that is in that 5000 lb range if I trade? Are there any specific machines that I should stay away from in that range? That's all I can think of for now. Thanks again. Chris

 

[Tazza]

Ok, i'm far from an expert here but i can give you some advise.
Yes, you can access the chain case by simply lifting the cab. It will be hard going i assure you that. There is little room and always something in the road. The drive chains and sprockets are quite heavy. I would start by checking your oil level, if its really low or non existent you will need to replace all the bearings, including the ones from the hydro motors to the chains, that makes for a total of 12 bearings (cups and cones). Make sure you don't just replace the cones, the cups will have worn too. The axle, don't use bronze, use carbon steel. You need it hard for where the seal lips run, you don't want it wearing out. Even something like a speedy sleeve would work here.
As for weight of the machine, the *7* series sized machines are around the 4,000 lb mark, not sure if they do one between the 7 and 8 series size. As for what to stay away from, with Bobcat you are pretty safe no matter what you get (sorry Bobcat_Ron). The earlier ones in my mind are better, less electronics and anyone can fix them. The newer ones need to be hooked up to a laptop at the dealer to program them.
Sorry i can't be much more help. But if you wanted to get it just rite, you do need to change all bearings if you ran low on oil. I would start here, have a look and assess it from there.
Parts, i get my bearings locally as i get good prices, but the *bobcat only parts* i need to get from my dealer. I don't know where you are, but Mark from IM bobcat in Utah has been an amazing help to me, but it depends on where you are.
Do let us know how you go. Remember anything can be repaired, just depends on how much work you mind putting into it. I put over 12 months into one, it was all worth it in the end.

 

[clr1001]

Ok, i'm far from an expert here but i can give you some advise.
Yes, you can access the chain case by simply lifting the cab. It will be hard going i assure you that. There is little room and always something in the road. The drive chains and sprockets are quite heavy. I would start by checking your oil level, if its really low or non existent you will need to replace all the bearings, including the ones from the hydro motors to the chains, that makes for a total of 12 bearings (cups and cones). Make sure you don't just replace the cones, the cups will have worn too. The axle, don't use bronze, use carbon steel. You need it hard for where the seal lips run, you don't want it wearing out. Even something like a speedy sleeve would work here.
As for weight of the machine, the *7* series sized machines are around the 4,000 lb mark, not sure if they do one between the 7 and 8 series size. As for what to stay away from, with Bobcat you are pretty safe no matter what you get (sorry Bobcat_Ron). The earlier ones in my mind are better, less electronics and anyone can fix them. The newer ones need to be hooked up to a laptop at the dealer to program them.
Sorry i can't be much more help. But if you wanted to get it just rite, you do need to change all bearings if you ran low on oil. I would start here, have a look and assess it from there.
Parts, i get my bearings locally as i get good prices, but the *bobcat only parts* i need to get from my dealer. I don't know where you are, but Mark from IM bobcat in Utah has been an amazing help to me, but it depends on where you are.
Do let us know how you go. Remember anything can be repaired, just depends on how much work you mind putting into it. I put over 12 months into one, it was all worth it in the end.

I'm going to talk to the dealer tomorrow, and then I'll let you know how I am going to proceed. If I do tackle this job, I'll take photos from start to finish. It should be pretty cool if I do that. Twelve bearings and races is about $1200 USD. If I have to have a new axle shaft and hub, I'm betting on another $800 USD. I'm in IL, but I will still check out IM Bobcat in Utah, and see what they have to say if I decide to do the job. I've pulled motors and transmissions, done brake jobs, lots of wheel bearings and seals, so I ought to be able to handle this...(fingers crossed). I'm going to look up "speedy sleeve" on the internet so maybe I can salvage the axle shaft, but if I can't find a link to it, I'll write back and ask for a link from somebody on here. If I think of anything else exciting, I'll write back tonite. Thanks to you and everybody else for your help so far. Chris

 

[Tazza]

I'm going to talk to the dealer tomorrow, and then I'll let you know how I am going to proceed. If I do tackle this job, I'll take photos from start to finish. It should be pretty cool if I do that. Twelve bearings and races is about $1200 USD. If I have to have a new axle shaft and hub, I'm betting on another $800 USD. I'm in IL, but I will still check out IM Bobcat in Utah, and see what they have to say if I decide to do the job. I've pulled motors and transmissions, done brake jobs, lots of wheel bearings and seals, so I ought to be able to handle this...(fingers crossed). I'm going to look up "speedy sleeve" on the internet so maybe I can salvage the axle shaft, but if I can't find a link to it, I'll write back and ask for a link from somebody on here. If I think of anything else exciting, I'll write back tonite. Thanks to you and everybody else for your help so far. Chris

I bought my bearings locally, you don't need to get them from the dealer... Sorry Mark!
Just ensure you get a GOOD brand if you go this way.
The speedy sleeve is essentially a hardened sleeve you machine the shaft down to, so you can press the sleeve on and you are good to go.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Chris
A 5k trailer is pretty light, not that I have'nt used one. a 753 is 4700 a 773 is 5700 , your 853 is 6500. plus attachments, believe that is wet
I guess if I picked a favourite it would be a 763, proven engine and hydros, long wheel base, and not so many pins to wear out on the radius lift boom. a 753 is the same with a short wheelbase, the 773 is the same with the fancy vertical boom.
773 and 853 lift about the same, 853 will push harder becasue it weights more and will float better because it has 12" tires instead of 10" from the 700 series. 700's have a more precise steering.
Try to drive one of each if you can. Its hard to explain, but a 853 has no feeling though the steering levers. A 700 series, the harder the hydros work, the harder the stick try to neutralize themselves. You can feel it, a 853 does not, the levers are always very light and low effort, witch is ok but not as intuitive. With my 700 I can drive up to an attachment and scoop it right up, with the 853 it is harder to get both (drives) sides to move forward slowly at exactly the same speed, the end result is the bobtach waving side to side behind the bucket. I'm told a 863 is the same too. A 700 begins to move the instant you push the stick. A 800 has a slight lag, then goes, I had one customer nearly drive it right over the fender of the trailer, mind you he was a renter that should have hired a operator too. When I set it in motion, I push each stick a little and see what happens, then adjust accordingly and it not bad, its just not as nice as the other.
You should be able to find used axels and hubs, as these usually never wear out. Also a 853 has a gear reduction on each side between the wheel motor and the drive sprocket that the 700 does not, So mayby more bearings. Hopefully things look ok inside the chain case and there is some oil left.
If you go new try a few different dealers as Bobcat "allows our dealers the freedom to set their own pricing" which tells me you want to find a good one.
Ken

 

[clr1001]

Chris
A 5k trailer is pretty light, not that I have'nt used one. a 753 is 4700 a 773 is 5700 , your 853 is 6500. plus attachments, believe that is wet
I guess if I picked a favourite it would be a 763, proven engine and hydros, long wheel base, and not so many pins to wear out on the radius lift boom. a 753 is the same with a short wheelbase, the 773 is the same with the fancy vertical boom.
773 and 853 lift about the same, 853 will push harder becasue it weights more and will float better because it has 12" tires instead of 10" from the 700 series. 700's have a more precise steering.
Try to drive one of each if you can. Its hard to explain, but a 853 has no feeling though the steering levers. A 700 series, the harder the hydros work, the harder the stick try to neutralize themselves. You can feel it, a 853 does not, the levers are always very light and low effort, witch is ok but not as intuitive. With my 700 I can drive up to an attachment and scoop it right up, with the 853 it is harder to get both (drives) sides to move forward slowly at exactly the same speed, the end result is the bobtach waving side to side behind the bucket. I'm told a 863 is the same too. A 700 begins to move the instant you push the stick. A 800 has a slight lag, then goes, I had one customer nearly drive it right over the fender of the trailer, mind you he was a renter that should have hired a operator too. When I set it in motion, I push each stick a little and see what happens, then adjust accordingly and it not bad, its just not as nice as the other.
You should be able to find used axels and hubs, as these usually never wear out. Also a 853 has a gear reduction on each side between the wheel motor and the drive sprocket that the 700 does not, So mayby more bearings. Hopefully things look ok inside the chain case and there is some oil left.
If you go new try a few different dealers as Bobcat "allows our dealers the freedom to set their own pricing" which tells me you want to find a good one.
Ken

I will check out a 763 if I get the chance. I'll also be looking for that 553 that I mentioned earlier. Thanks for the stats on the different machines. That gives me ideas on what to or what not to go with. I'll try to test drive several if they let me. I won't be buying anything new unless I win the lottery, lol. Thanks again. Chris

 

[clr1001]

I will check out a 763 if I get the chance. I'll also be looking for that 553 that I mentioned earlier. Thanks for the stats on the different machines. That gives me ideas on what to or what not to go with. I'll try to test drive several if they let me. I won't be buying anything new unless I win the lottery, lol. Thanks again. Chris

I mentioned in an earlier thread that the dealer said it might cost them $1000 USD to repair my skidsteer. I asked him for a rough estimate for trade on my machine with 3655 hours and the needed repairs. We're probably looking at $7K for the trade, and he wants about $13K for the 553 with about 700 hours. He's coming to look at my 853 on Monday 4/14, and bringing the 553 on a trailer at the same time. I told him to throw on a couple buckets and some pallets forks, too, because if he allows me enough on my trade, I'll just drive the 553 off, and he can drive the 853 onto his trailer, and we'll either finance the difference, or I'll write him a check for the difference. How does this $13K USD for 700 hours on the 553 and $7K for my 853 sound pricewise and otherwise to all you seasoned professionals? Thanks. Chris

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I mentioned in an earlier thread that the dealer said it might cost them $1000 USD to repair my skidsteer. I asked him for a rough estimate for trade on my machine with 3655 hours and the needed repairs. We're probably looking at $7K for the trade, and he wants about $13K for the 553 with about 700 hours. He's coming to look at my 853 on Monday 4/14, and bringing the 553 on a trailer at the same time. I told him to throw on a couple buckets and some pallets forks, too, because if he allows me enough on my trade, I'll just drive the 553 off, and he can drive the 853 onto his trailer, and we'll either finance the difference, or I'll write him a check for the difference. How does this $13K USD for 700 hours on the 553 and $7K for my 853 sound pricewise and otherwise to all you seasoned professionals? Thanks. Chris

What year is the 553, the newer models had larger engines (mine is a d950 kubota, around 95 model, think they us a d1005 now) and large hydraulic pumps mine is @ 8 gpm, with more pressure too, mine is 1600 psi and rated lift is up some from the 850 lbs mine is rated for. Btw the pallet fork rating will be pretty low on the 553, because it is so short and the forks stick so far out in front, capacity is going to be @ 500 lbs.
Also tracks are harder to come by to as the tire size is much less common then a 10" or 12" by 16.5
I like my little loader, but there are several things is cant do because it is too small or the attachments are built for larger machines. You may want to ask your dealer about this and what it can run or what you could rent to use on it.
Ken

 

[clr1001]

What year is the 553, the newer models had larger engines (mine is a d950 kubota, around 95 model, think they us a d1005 now) and large hydraulic pumps mine is @ 8 gpm, with more pressure too, mine is 1600 psi and rated lift is up some from the 850 lbs mine is rated for. Btw the pallet fork rating will be pretty low on the 553, because it is so short and the forks stick so far out in front, capacity is going to be @ 500 lbs.
Also tracks are harder to come by to as the tire size is much less common then a 10" or 12" by 16.5
I like my little loader, but there are several things is cant do because it is too small or the attachments are built for larger machines. You may want to ask your dealer about this and what it can run or what you could rent to use on it.
Ken

I think he said this is a 2004. I don't remember for sure. That's a valid point about the attachments, in case I ever wanted to borrow or rent other attachments. Keeps other guys from borrowing my stuff, tho, lol. I really only want to do small projects with this machine. I think the bucket rating on this is right under 1000 lbs, if I remember correctly. I'm not planning on putting any tracks on it. I think the horsepower is about 25 or somewhere in there. Any thots on the value of my machine at $7000 and the value of the 553 at $13000? Thanks. Chris