Hello new here I have a 753G I bought it a few weeks ago and am having trouble with it. It will not start off the key. I can jump it over on the starter and it will run as long as you hold the fuel shut off open. We have checked wiring harness, grounds, fuses, key switch, and had the starter rebuilt. I have checked with bobcat mechanics to see what they thought it might be and everyone I talked too is leaning towards the controller/computer. They say there is no way to test a computer. The only thing I can think of to test the computer is to put it on another machine and see if it does the same thing on a different machine. The only problem with that is it is very difficult to find another machine with that controller. Does anyone know what other machines use a gateway 2 plug controller? Anyone have any suggestions? I also took the computer out of the machine and took it by the dealer and they said since the seam had a split that it was more than likely shorted out inside the case. The computer is 750 dollars so the price makes me think they might sell quite a few of them. I don't mind spending the money on a computer but I want to know that it is the computer before I spend the cash. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
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If you can find another machine, there is no reason why you can't swap controllers.
What happens when you turn the key on? does the dash light up? gauges do a full strole to the right then roll back, glow timer starts with a count down on the left panel?
With the key off, when you push and hold the lights button, what codes do you get on the display?
There are different levels of dead. We really need to know what signs of life you have. It could be as simple as a bad fuse or fuse holder. They do corrode and cause all sorts of troubles, even a bad starter relay.
What happens when you turn the key on? does the dash light up? gauges do a full strole to the right then roll back, glow timer starts with a count down on the left panel?
With the key off, when you push and hold the lights button, what codes do you get on the display?
There are different levels of dead. We really need to know what signs of life you have. It could be as simple as a bad fuse or fuse holder. They do corrode and cause all sorts of troubles, even a bad starter relay.
I have checked the starter relay and all the fuses in the box between my legs. With the key on all the machine does is beep and flash and will not shut off until the key is turned off. I have not tried the key off and hold the light button but I will try that first thing in the morning. The hour meter any time it is lit up it just shows 0000. The gauges come on and peg out then drop off and keep doing this while the key is on. If you hold the key in the start position it will bump the starter but will not turn over while doing this the fuel shutoff solenoid will open and close.If you can find another machine, there is no reason why you can't swap controllers.
What happens when you turn the key on? does the dash light up? gauges do a full strole to the right then roll back, glow timer starts with a count down on the left panel?
With the key off, when you push and hold the lights button, what codes do you get on the display?
There are different levels of dead. We really need to know what signs of life you have. It could be as simple as a bad fuse or fuse holder. They do corrode and cause all sorts of troubles, even a bad starter relay.
I held the light button down and all it did was beep and all 8 appeared across the hour meter. Does anyone have a machine they would mind me putting my controller on? I live in Bryan Tx is anyone close to here?I have checked the starter relay and all the fuses in the box between my legs. With the key on all the machine does is beep and flash and will not shut off until the key is turned off. I have not tried the key off and hold the light button but I will try that first thing in the morning. The hour meter any time it is lit up it just shows 0000. The gauges come on and peg out then drop off and keep doing this while the key is on. If you hold the key in the start position it will bump the starter but will not turn over while doing this the fuel shutoff solenoid will open and close.
When you turn the dash on, does it freak out, lights and beeps wildly? Clean the battery connections, even if they look good. I have seen this many times. If the controller gets less the 9v or more then 16v, it goes into protective shutdown and they do crazy things. It very well could be a contoller, honestly step 2 for me with a G or newer series to switch controllers for electric problems. There are 2 and 4 plug connectors and as far as I know there is no rhyme or reason to which is used. You will just have to look, pay attention to part number. Warning, if you get one out of a 800 series and it works, do not run long! They are programed differently and will burn out the fuel shutoff in 5 to 10 minutes.I held the light button down and all it did was beep and all 8 appeared across the hour meter. Does anyone have a machine they would mind me putting my controller on? I live in Bryan Tx is anyone close to here?
When I do turn it on it lights and beeps wildly! It has only once not beeped like that in the few weeks that I have owned it. It suprised me when it happened and by the time I got to the key switch it started acting up again. All I had done was take the controller and cleaned the connections. It was like it got hot and shorted out. When we traced the wires and checke voltage we get the full 12v to the computer but not at the key. It seems we lose the 12 volts at the controller. Thanks again for your help.When you turn the dash on, does it freak out, lights and beeps wildly? Clean the battery connections, even if they look good. I have seen this many times. If the controller gets less the 9v or more then 16v, it goes into protective shutdown and they do crazy things. It very well could be a contoller, honestly step 2 for me with a G or newer series to switch controllers for electric problems. There are 2 and 4 plug connectors and as far as I know there is no rhyme or reason to which is used. You will just have to look, pay attention to part number. Warning, if you get one out of a 800 series and it works, do not run long! They are programed differently and will burn out the fuel shutoff in 5 to 10 minutes.
It is sounding more and more like a controller.When I do turn it on it lights and beeps wildly! It has only once not beeped like that in the few weeks that I have owned it. It suprised me when it happened and by the time I got to the key switch it started acting up again. All I had done was take the controller and cleaned the connections. It was like it got hot and shorted out. When we traced the wires and checke voltage we get the full 12v to the computer but not at the key. It seems we lose the 12 volts at the controller. Thanks again for your help.
You said the seal was broken on the controller box, can you get it openand look for obvious burn marks or corrosion? Its one last thing you can try before hunting down a used or test controller...
As you are getting no time on the hour meter, it's not talking to the computer correctly as well. That's the problem with machines with computers, so many issues trying to trace a fault.
Yes the seal is broken or rotted on the controller looks like a split seam on a plastic gas tank. Is there a cirtian way to take the controller apart? I assume that the plug portion will of the controller will come out with the inside. THe controller is a 2 part case correct with no wires connecting the two parts of the case?It is sounding more and more like a controller.
You said the seal was broken on the controller box, can you get it openand look for obvious burn marks or corrosion? Its one last thing you can try before hunting down a used or test controller...
As you are getting no time on the hour meter, it's not talking to the computer correctly as well. That's the problem with machines with computers, so many issues trying to trace a fault.
CLEAN THE BATTERY. I have never seen a failed controller cause the dash to freak out. I have seen bad connections that look fine cause this. Normally if a controller dies, the display would stay INPUT. I'm not going to rule out the controller is bad, but if this saves you some big bucks, I'm going to stress it. If you replace the controller, it has to be programed to that machine. That can only be done by a bobcat tech. Putting an unprogram controller in, it may or may not run, I have seen it go both ways. So there would be a service call and if he gets out there and it is just a battery connection.Yes the seal is broken or rotted on the controller looks like a split seam on a plastic gas tank. Is there a cirtian way to take the controller apart? I assume that the plug portion will of the controller will come out with the inside. THe controller is a 2 part case correct with no wires connecting the two parts of the case?
Sorry for no updates been very busy. I cleaned the battery still a no go. Put a new battery still a no go. I did talk with a bobcat technician and he said he had a way of programing the controller if I had to purchase a new one but did not have a machine to test it on the lot as of when I called him. Everyone I have talked to is leaning to a controller issue but I still want to test the controller before I spend the money. Does anyone have a Bobcat skid steer aroud the 2003 year range or newer that has a 2 plug gateway controller? If anyone does and is in driving distance of Bryan Tx I would like put my controller on your machine and to see what it does. Or if someone would let me send mine to them to put it on there machine I would pay shipping both ways. Any other ideas? ThanksCLEAN THE BATTERY. I have never seen a failed controller cause the dash to freak out. I have seen bad connections that look fine cause this. Normally if a controller dies, the display would stay INPUT. I'm not going to rule out the controller is bad, but if this saves you some big bucks, I'm going to stress it. If you replace the controller, it has to be programed to that machine. That can only be done by a bobcat tech. Putting an unprogram controller in, it may or may not run, I have seen it go both ways. So there would be a service call and if he gets out there and it is just a battery connection.
I think you will be waiting a long time to find someone you don't even know to let you swop computors with them --------------$750 really isn't bad , it is over $800 here and then a $90 program fee and 8.75% tax makes it right at a grand --- the main wiring harness for that machine (2 plug) is $1919.56 , I know cause I priced one this week --- I do believe the programming on that machine with foot pedals would only be machine serial number and hours ----shade tree 101 : if you really don't want to spend the money and want to get it starting , running and killing for about $50 , install a heavy duty push button start in the dash next to the key switch , run a heavy wire from it to the starter solinoid , don't worry about going thru a relay , remove the run kill sloinoid and install a choke or small engine throtlle cable and hook it to the stop arm , it will start and run , now there may be other issues to deal with after going thru this first step , but they are all workable , you can take it as far as you want and do some oil and temperature gauges , the hardest part is the aux hydraulics rewiring , if you never use it forget it , it will cost alot less than $750+ and you will never be broke down with that problem again , there are still a lot of machines around here that went 12 ft under in salt water and fried the computors and wiring harnesses that are still running today jumped out --------- doing this will take away the machines abillity to shut it's self down if it runs hot or low of pressureSorry for no updates been very busy. I cleaned the battery still a no go. Put a new battery still a no go. I did talk with a bobcat technician and he said he had a way of programing the controller if I had to purchase a new one but did not have a machine to test it on the lot as of when I called him. Everyone I have talked to is leaning to a controller issue but I still want to test the controller before I spend the money. Does anyone have a Bobcat skid steer aroud the 2003 year range or newer that has a 2 plug gateway controller? If anyone does and is in driving distance of Bryan Tx I would like put my controller on your machine and to see what it does. Or if someone would let me send mine to them to put it on there machine I would pay shipping both ways. Any other ideas? Thanks
Thanks for the information I have it running by jumping the starter and wedging the fuel shut off open so it will run. I had to remove the park pin so that it would move but I can move it around in and out of the shop. But the hydrolics are still locked out. I have though about the shade tree way but really dont want to go that route right this moment. Thanks again for the help! I guess I will just pecking away at it when I have time.I think you will be waiting a long time to find someone you don't even know to let you swop computors with them --------------$750 really isn't bad , it is over $800 here and then a $90 program fee and 8.75% tax makes it right at a grand --- the main wiring harness for that machine (2 plug) is $1919.56 , I know cause I priced one this week --- I do believe the programming on that machine with foot pedals would only be machine serial number and hours ----shade tree 101 : if you really don't want to spend the money and want to get it starting , running and killing for about $50 , install a heavy duty push button start in the dash next to the key switch , run a heavy wire from it to the starter solinoid , don't worry about going thru a relay , remove the run kill sloinoid and install a choke or small engine throtlle cable and hook it to the stop arm , it will start and run , now there may be other issues to deal with after going thru this first step , but they are all workable , you can take it as far as you want and do some oil and temperature gauges , the hardest part is the aux hydraulics rewiring , if you never use it forget it , it will cost alot less than $750+ and you will never be broke down with that problem again , there are still a lot of machines around here that went 12 ft under in salt water and fried the computors and wiring harnesses that are still running today jumped out --------- doing this will take away the machines abillity to shut it's self down if it runs hot or low of pressure
jumping a wire to unlock the boom and tilt hydraulic is pretty easy , 5 minutes max , cab up looking into belly from the front there is a coil in the middle bottom of the controll valve , two wires going into it , put a quickie tap , one of them blue squeeze around the wires things that punture the insulation on the red wire on the harness , run that wire to the other side the machine , right at the corner the wiring harness has a couple of plugs with three wires in each , one of those wires is hot only with the key on tap into that wire and the hysraulics will unlock when the key is on and you can use the machine , this could help you to at least get the boom up and barred off so you can get in there and pick away at itThanks for the information I have it running by jumping the starter and wedging the fuel shut off open so it will run. I had to remove the park pin so that it would move but I can move it around in and out of the shop. But the hydrolics are still locked out. I have though about the shade tree way but really dont want to go that route right this moment. Thanks again for the help! I guess I will just pecking away at it when I have time.
Just bite the bullet, call the dealer. I keep old controllers, if I think that is the problem, I swap it. I can fix most problems caused by a bad controller in a hour, that includes programing it. This has been laying the machine up how long and now you are going to rig everything to make it work, when this could most likly be fixed in one afternoon.jumping a wire to unlock the boom and tilt hydraulic is pretty easy , 5 minutes max , cab up looking into belly from the front there is a coil in the middle bottom of the controll valve , two wires going into it , put a quickie tap , one of them blue squeeze around the wires things that punture the insulation on the red wire on the harness , run that wire to the other side the machine , right at the corner the wiring harness has a couple of plugs with three wires in each , one of those wires is hot only with the key on tap into that wire and the hysraulics will unlock when the key is on and you can use the machine , this could help you to at least get the boom up and barred off so you can get in there and pick away at it
I am not going to rig it. But it is nice to know how to get things out of the way to work on it. I think the new controller is the only way to go but I still want to make sure thats whats wrong before I spend the money. I know if thats not the problem bobcat wont take the controller back. Thanks again for all the help.Just bite the bullet, call the dealer. I keep old controllers, if I think that is the problem, I swap it. I can fix most problems caused by a bad controller in a hour, that includes programing it. This has been laying the machine up how long and now you are going to rig everything to make it work, when this could most likly be fixed in one afternoon.
The right thing to do is fix it the right way , but keep in mind sometimes the snow ball effect comes into play and it just keeps getting bigger and bigger , and after you sunk more money into then you can get out of it you say " why did I do that " , you probally won't know for sure if the controller is your only problem till you change it , a 2 plug wiring harness for the 763 is $2,000 ------------a 763 in " pristine " mechanical and cosmetical condition around here is worth about $7,500 ----- good luckI am not going to rig it. But it is nice to know how to get things out of the way to work on it. I think the new controller is the only way to go but I still want to make sure thats whats wrong before I spend the money. I know if thats not the problem bobcat wont take the controller back. Thanks again for all the help.
Controler fixed it works great! Controler programed 809 out the door. Thanks everyone that helped with the trouble shooting. I hope I can help someone as yall helped me along. ThanksThe right thing to do is fix it the right way , but keep in mind sometimes the snow ball effect comes into play and it just keeps getting bigger and bigger , and after you sunk more money into then you can get out of it you say " why did I do that " , you probally won't know for sure if the controller is your only problem till you change it , a 2 plug wiring harness for the 763 is $2,000 ------------a 763 in " pristine " mechanical and cosmetical condition around here is worth about $7,500 ----- good luck
Glad it's fixed, just a shame it was a bad controller.....Controler fixed it works great! Controler programed 809 out the door. Thanks everyone that helped with the trouble shooting. I hope I can help someone as yall helped me along. Thanks
Rumrunner439
New member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2023
- Messages
- 3
I am doing your bypass tonight for the boom but how about the tilt and aux ? I have a grapple bucket I need to use the aux with. ThanksI think you will be waiting a long time to find someone you don't even know to let you swop computors with them --------------$750 really isn't bad , it is over $800 here and then a $90 program fee and 8.75% tax makes it right at a grand --- the main wiring harness for that machine (2 plug) is $1919.56 , I know cause I priced one this week --- I do believe the programming on that machine with foot pedals would only be machine serial number and hours ----shade tree 101 : if you really don't want to spend the money and want to get it starting , running and killing for about $50 , install a heavy duty push button start in the dash next to the key switch , run a heavy wire from it to the starter solinoid , don't worry about going thru a relay , remove the run kill sloinoid and install a choke or small engine throtlle cable and hook it to the stop arm , it will start and run , now there may be other issues to deal with after going thru this first step , but they are all workable , you can take it as far as you want and do some oil and temperature gauges , the hardest part is the aux hydraulics rewiring , if you never use it forget it , it will cost alot less than $750+ and you will never be broke down with that problem again , there are still a lot of machines around here that went 12 ft under in salt water and fried the computors and wiring harnesses that are still running today jumped out --------- doing this will take away the machines abillity to shut it's self down if it runs hot or low of pressure