753 squeaks when going forward

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How hard is it to separate the chaincase from the rest of the machine. I'm not worried about doing the job I'm quite mechanical just getting into uncharted territory with this job.
On my 743 it was 20 bolts that go from the chain case to the body not to hard one nut that was a pain in the ass for the pivot point for linkage two nuts for the front of the hydro pump then wire up the pump hope Tazza chimes in on if it any differant on the 753 but think it is pretty much the same
 
On my 743 it was 20 bolts that go from the chain case to the body not to hard one nut that was a pain in the ass for the pivot point for linkage two nuts for the front of the hydro pump then wire up the pump hope Tazza chimes in on if it any differant on the 753 but think it is pretty much the same
I had to do some thinking to do this but did it all by myself with a 3 ton jack and a few tools blocks and a big ass pipe
 
I had to do some thinking to do this but did it all by myself with a 3 ton jack and a few tools blocks and a big ass pipe
Well I'm sure I got all the tools and knowledge to do it just like I said these are uncharted waters for me but the best way to learn is to do it. Would you happen to know if there are any forums on here discussing in depth the process to remove the body and all?
 
Well I'm sure I got all the tools and knowledge to do it just like I said these are uncharted waters for me but the best way to learn is to do it. Would you happen to know if there are any forums on here discussing in depth the process to remove the body and all?
I studyed for a long time Tazza is the man for this but feel free to ask me with a few pics of your I could tell if there is any differances an am retierd and my wife is leaving for Thailand monday email me at antfarmer1212 atyahoo.com
 
I studyed for a long time Tazza is the man for this but feel free to ask me with a few pics of your I could tell if there is any differances an am retierd and my wife is leaving for Thailand monday email me at antfarmer1212 atyahoo.com
The only hard part for me was getting the inside races in but after many differant trys I got a ten ton porta power and a tiny ram went in easy no room in there
 
The only hard part for me was getting the inside races in but after many differant trys I got a ten ton porta power and a tiny ram went in easy no room in there
antfarmer2 got it all pretty well rite.
Have a look at this post, it shows another member doing a chaincase swap:
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=19071
There was another i was looking for, it was a guy that fully rebuilt his 743, started on one thing and it just snowballed. It was quite a while ago now, i couldn't find it in the 1/2 hour i have for lunch.
 
antfarmer2 got it all pretty well rite.
Have a look at this post, it shows another member doing a chaincase swap:
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=19071
There was another i was looking for, it was a guy that fully rebuilt his 743, started on one thing and it just snowballed. It was quite a while ago now, i couldn't find it in the 1/2 hour i have for lunch.
I talked to Tazza and the only real differance is the parking brake and you have engine mounts to your chain case
 
I talked to Tazza and the only real differance is the parking brake and you have engine mounts to your chain case
After all my research and reading on here I think I've got my head wrapped around it. It looks like I'm going to seperate the chaincase because after having a look it over today it doesn't look like there is much room to work on the rear axles with the body still on. I just drained the chaincase cleaned it and refilled it right before this happened. Does anyone know how tight the chains should be or how to adjust the tension on them as well.
 
After all my research and reading on here I think I've got my head wrapped around it. It looks like I'm going to seperate the chaincase because after having a look it over today it doesn't look like there is much room to work on the rear axles with the body still on. I just drained the chaincase cleaned it and refilled it right before this happened. Does anyone know how tight the chains should be or how to adjust the tension on them as well.
Sorry, i didn't read the post correctly, thought it was a 743.... Whoops!
Removeing the chaincase is easy on a 743, the newer ones is not so simple, the engine and pump are mounted to the chain case.
With the cab up, you should be able to easily access the rear access cover for the chain case to do tinker with the rear axles.
 
Sorry, i didn't read the post correctly, thought it was a 743.... Whoops!
Removeing the chaincase is easy on a 743, the newer ones is not so simple, the engine and pump are mounted to the chain case.
With the cab up, you should be able to easily access the rear access cover for the chain case to do tinker with the rear axles.
There is no adjustment for the chains, if they are too0 loose, they need replacing as they are worn or stretched.
 
There is no adjustment for the chains, if they are too0 loose, they need replacing as they are worn or stretched.
Tazza knows best sounds like he just saved you if you can get to the back ones it will be much easyer not takeing the case off the best warning I can give you is when putting on the second side front and back axle is to get the gear and bolt on as your putting the axle in or you will be pulling it out again and can damage the seal also cut one or two races in half and use a hose clamp to hold them to set the seal another Tazza trick
 
Tazza knows best sounds like he just saved you if you can get to the back ones it will be much easyer not takeing the case off the best warning I can give you is when putting on the second side front and back axle is to get the gear and bolt on as your putting the axle in or you will be pulling it out again and can damage the seal also cut one or two races in half and use a hose clamp to hold them to set the seal another Tazza trick
If you don't want to cut the chain, do as antfarmer said, put the sprocket and chain on as you push the axle through.
As for the seal, the two picec axles are much easier, no need for a tool to install them. Before removing the axle, loosen the bolt a few turns, install to bottle jacks either side of the hub and pump them up. Hit the head of the bolt with a large hammer to get the taper to crack. Remove the internal bolt and use a bottle jack to pull the axle out.
Check out the pictures here: http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/751/
It shows some pictures of when i worked on a chain case. Mostly how to remove the axles.
 
If you don't want to cut the chain, do as antfarmer said, put the sprocket and chain on as you push the axle through.
As for the seal, the two picec axles are much easier, no need for a tool to install them. Before removing the axle, loosen the bolt a few turns, install to bottle jacks either side of the hub and pump them up. Hit the head of the bolt with a large hammer to get the taper to crack. Remove the internal bolt and use a bottle jack to pull the axle out.
Check out the pictures here: http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/751/
It shows some pictures of when i worked on a chain case. Mostly how to remove the axles.
Thanks for all y'all's help I'm gonna tackle the project first of next week. I've worked on a lot of equipment over the years but I really don't have much experience on skid loaders but with all the help I think I can get it done!
 
Thanks for all y'all's help I'm gonna tackle the project first of next week. I've worked on a lot of equipment over the years but I really don't have much experience on skid loaders but with all the help I think I can get it done!
Good luck make sure you put oon new wear sleaves if it has them let us know how it goes kiss your knuckels first lol
 

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