753 cranks but will not start

[Tazza]

Your on the right track with a compression tester too, you will need to salvage a glow plug to make a thread adapter unless you can source the metric threads, no idea what size that is. Make it fit your regular comp tester and put a higher pressure guage on it.
I would doubt a con rod is bent but who knows, it should still run on the other 3. Even with low comp, it should still smoke the fuel when cranked. Bad fuel timing faulty injector spray all equal smoke too, the fuel just ain't getting there and that is the main trouble
LOL Start you B%stard.! That about sums up the last resort or using either. I'll have to change what I call it
Ken

I should have taken a picture of the can! if i remember I'll take a snap when I'm in the store next
If you have it home, i would suggest pulling the injectors, install the short tube line out the back of the pump and attach an injector loosely. crank the engine, it will spin really easy and let out a LOT of noise from compression. Fuel should squirt out the delivery valve nozzles on the pump, keep cranking till you get fuel at the injector. Tighten the nut then crank again, see if you get fuel at the tip. If you get none it sounds like your injectors are stuck. The spray should be a narrow cone. I honestly believe your problem is stuck injectors or a bad pump. Ensure you have used a cable tie or wire to hold the start solenoid closed to allow fuel to the pump.
Ensure you don't over heat your starter, do this in bursts then let it cool off a bit.

 

[sterlclan]

I should have taken a picture of the can! if i remember I'll take a snap when I'm in the store next
If you have it home, i would suggest pulling the injectors, install the short tube line out the back of the pump and attach an injector loosely. crank the engine, it will spin really easy and let out a LOT of noise from compression. Fuel should squirt out the delivery valve nozzles on the pump, keep cranking till you get fuel at the injector. Tighten the nut then crank again, see if you get fuel at the tip. If you get none it sounds like your injectors are stuck. The spray should be a narrow cone. I honestly believe your problem is stuck injectors or a bad pump. Ensure you have used a cable tie or wire to hold the start solenoid closed to allow fuel to the pump.
Ensure you don't over heat your starter, do this in bursts then let it cool off a bit.

wd-40 is a better starting fluid imo does sound fuel related .....Jeff

 

[tdburnette]

wd-40 is a better starting fluid imo does sound fuel related .....Jeff

I have a update after all evening doing tests. On either it does not respond. I removed a injector and put it back in a line and watched the fuel spray out in a narrow fog pattern. Removed the valve cover and verified the valves are closing. Made an adapter to perform a compression test and here are the results. 1-30psi 2-40psi 3-60psi 4-0psi. I couldn't believe it so I done a cylinder leak down test. It failed on 2 of the 4 holes. Looks like it should have failed all 4 also. I double checked my compression gauge on another engine and it was good. On the leak down test the air is coming from the crankcase. (oil fill hole) I am having a hard time convincing myself of this due to the fact that the shortblock has been replaced. the head and intake are the kubota dark blue and the shortblock it dark grey. So I am pretty sure it has been replaced. So all that being said who has pulled the engine from a 753? How about some pointers. I wonder why a replacement shortblock would loose compression? thank you.

 

[Tazza]

I have a update after all evening doing tests. On either it does not respond. I removed a injector and put it back in a line and watched the fuel spray out in a narrow fog pattern. Removed the valve cover and verified the valves are closing. Made an adapter to perform a compression test and here are the results. 1-30psi 2-40psi 3-60psi 4-0psi. I couldn't believe it so I done a cylinder leak down test. It failed on 2 of the 4 holes. Looks like it should have failed all 4 also. I double checked my compression gauge on another engine and it was good. On the leak down test the air is coming from the crankcase. (oil fill hole) I am having a hard time convincing myself of this due to the fact that the shortblock has been replaced. the head and intake are the kubota dark blue and the shortblock it dark grey. So I am pretty sure it has been replaced. So all that being said who has pulled the engine from a 753? How about some pointers. I wonder why a replacement shortblock would loose compression? thank you.

When i get home i will look into this a little more. It could be that your timing is out, i have your e-mail address still, I'll send you an e-mail and see what we can work out. They are an simple engine, should be *easy* to fix.

 

[tdburnette]

When i get home i will look into this a little more. It could be that your timing is out, i have your e-mail address still, I'll send you an e-mail and see what we can work out. They are an simple engine, should be *easy* to fix.

UPDATE Removed the engine then head. It is real rough and dark colored on the upper 3/4 of the cyl. the lower 1/4 looks fairly normal. What caused this? Any ideas? thank you, Terry

 

[Tom Brown]

wd-40 is a better starting fluid imo does sound fuel related .....Jeff

I second the suggestion to use WD-40 when testing engines. As well as providing some lubrication, it's a little less severe than ether.

 

[Tazza]

I second the suggestion to use WD-40 when testing engines. As well as providing some lubrication, it's a little less severe than ether.

Can you define rough? is it rough feeling or just looks that way? The colour could simply be the fuel that was squirted in that didn't go off due to low compression. The cylinder walls should be smooth to the touch with no scores. Can you get a bore gauge to check the size? if they are not too worn or our of round you may get away with a hone and a set of rings.
You will need to pull the sump off and remove the pistons. If you know this already please ignore it, not trying to make out you don't know.
When you pull the pistons out makk them so you know where they go back, the numbering from 1 to 4 is from the front of the engine to the rear (flywheel). The numbering of the side of the big end of the con rod from memory should face the injector side of the engine. Just take note of all these things.
If/when you need to pull the timing cover off, remove the throttle lever first, there is a spring under there that connects to the alloy cover, if you don't remove it from here you will stretch it an have to replace it.
Do keep us informed as to how you go.
Start with measuring the cylinders then work from there.

 

[tdburnette]

Can you define rough? is it rough feeling or just looks that way? The colour could simply be the fuel that was squirted in that didn't go off due to low compression. The cylinder walls should be smooth to the touch with no scores. Can you get a bore gauge to check the size? if they are not too worn or our of round you may get away with a hone and a set of rings.
You will need to pull the sump off and remove the pistons. If you know this already please ignore it, not trying to make out you don't know.
When you pull the pistons out makk them so you know where they go back, the numbering from 1 to 4 is from the front of the engine to the rear (flywheel). The numbering of the side of the big end of the con rod from memory should face the injector side of the engine. Just take note of all these things.
If/when you need to pull the timing cover off, remove the throttle lever first, there is a spring under there that connects to the alloy cover, if you don't remove it from here you will stretch it an have to replace it.
Do keep us informed as to how you go.
Start with measuring the cylinders then work from there.

UPDATE All of the rings are stuck to the pistons. All other parts are perfect, bore can be honed. What most likely caused the rings to carbon up so fast and stick to the rings? This looks to be a fairly new short block. thank you, Terry

 

[Tazza]

UPDATE All of the rings are stuck to the pistons. All other parts are perfect, bore can be honed. What most likely caused the rings to carbon up so fast and stick to the rings? This looks to be a fairly new short block. thank you, Terry

Excellent!
You will get away with just pulling the sump and not the timing cover, this will save you buying a new timing cover gasket, just use silicone on the sump and you should be sweet.
Remember to remove the ridge at the top of the cylinders, you don't want to break your new rings!

 

[OldMachinist]

UPDATE All of the rings are stuck to the pistons. All other parts are perfect, bore can be honed. What most likely caused the rings to carbon up so fast and stick to the rings? This looks to be a fairly new short block. thank you, Terry

Most common reason for stuck rings is long term storage without proper preparation. The current owner should know how long its been sitting around.

 

[Tazza]

Most common reason for stuck rings is long term storage without proper preparation. The current owner should know how long its been sitting around.

Is there a way to get them un-stuck if an engine has been sitting short of pulling the pistons out? as i have a 2203 that has been sitting for a few years.... I haven't tried starting it yet though as i want to pull the head and check the bores first as the manifolds have only had rags in them so moisture may have gotten in. Best to check that before cranking !!!
I need a bore scope for this, would save time and effort thats for sure.

 

[OldMachinist]

Is there a way to get them un-stuck if an engine has been sitting short of pulling the pistons out? as i have a 2203 that has been sitting for a few years.... I haven't tried starting it yet though as i want to pull the head and check the bores first as the manifolds have only had rags in them so moisture may have gotten in. Best to check that before cranking !!!
I need a bore scope for this, would save time and effort thats for sure.

The biggest problem with engines that sit too long is condensation. Even with the holes plugged up with rags moisture is always going to get in. If you don't put some oil in bores and turn it over a couple of time to evenly coat everything before storing those rings are going to lock up. I store engines this way and try to turn them over by hand every so often. I also throw all my oil soaked rags on them to keep the mud dabbers and spiders from filling every single orifice with mud and eggs. Sometimes they look like nothing but a pile of rags but I had mud dabbers get in a Ford V8 one time that had the spark plugs out for only one month. I was lucky I tried to turn it over by hand first. Had to take the heads and intake off to clean them all out.
On small gasoline engines I've had luck with using Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase and fuel to loosen stuck rings. But I think with a diesel the only good way is pull the pistons and soak them and then I would in most cases install new rings and give the bores a quick hone so they will seat right.

 

[Tazza]

The biggest problem with engines that sit too long is condensation. Even with the holes plugged up with rags moisture is always going to get in. If you don't put some oil in bores and turn it over a couple of time to evenly coat everything before storing those rings are going to lock up. I store engines this way and try to turn them over by hand every so often. I also throw all my oil soaked rags on them to keep the mud dabbers and spiders from filling every single orifice with mud and eggs. Sometimes they look like nothing but a pile of rags but I had mud dabbers get in a Ford V8 one time that had the spark plugs out for only one month. I was lucky I tried to turn it over by hand first. Had to take the heads and intake off to clean them all out.
On small gasoline engines I've had luck with using Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase and fuel to loosen stuck rings. But I think with a diesel the only good way is pull the pistons and soak them and then I would in most cases install new rings and give the bores a quick hone so they will seat right.

We have hornets that make mud nests too, drive me crazy! Get in the air gun's fittings, in the spray guns and the worst is the air hoist or rattle gun!!! They get in there and you don't know and use it, the dirt goes rite into the air motor and you have to strip it down and clean it up!!!
I take great pleasure when i kill those bugs, if they didn't make a mess that would be fine but the hours i have had to spend repairing what they damage......
As you said, they don't take long to move in, anywhere they can lay their eggs....
My thoughts exactly on rags, its just not enough, i have heard of others squirting oil in and turning the engine over to store. I may need to pull mine down just to be safe. It only has 2,000 hours on it but best to be safe.

 

[kuny123]

Is there a way to get them un-stuck if an engine has been sitting short of pulling the pistons out? as i have a 2203 that has been sitting for a few years.... I haven't tried starting it yet though as i want to pull the head and check the bores first as the manifolds have only had rags in them so moisture may have gotten in. Best to check that before cranking !!!
I need a bore scope for this, would save time and effort thats for sure.

Try using Sea Foam, 1 can in the oil, 1 can in the fuel, that stuff is amazing stuff, it free's up everything inside the engine