Hello i recently purchased a 1985 743 bobcat. The problem i have is when i turn left or right it seems really slow(more so to the right) but when i go in a straigt line forward or reverse it seems ok. Just wondering what the problem could be. Any input would be great. Thanx
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Is the pump loud when you do this? lift the cab, is there a big hose from the pump to a block on the left side? os is there a big square block on the hydraulic pump with 3 hoses on the left side?
What is the power like? can you push on a tree and get the wheels to turn? push gently, but see if you can get one side to spin in the dirt.
What is the power like? can you push on a tree and get the wheels to turn? push gently, but see if you can get one side to spin in the dirt.
No the pump isn't loud when turning. I will look at the pump tomorrow when i get to the farm but off the top of my head i do not recall 3 hoses on the left side of the pump. I will try pushin on a tree aswell. ThanxIs the pump loud when you do this? lift the cab, is there a big hose from the pump to a block on the left side? os is there a big square block on the hydraulic pump with 3 hoses on the left side?
What is the power like? can you push on a tree and get the wheels to turn? push gently, but see if you can get one side to spin in the dirt.
Ok I worked the bobcat today and it seems that the left wheels spin with ease when pushing on a tree but the right side don't seem to move at all. I looked at the pump and only see two hoses comin from the pump on the left side and three on the right side of the pump.Is the pump loud when you do this? lift the cab, is there a big hose from the pump to a block on the left side? os is there a big square block on the hydraulic pump with 3 hoses on the left side?
What is the power like? can you push on a tree and get the wheels to turn? push gently, but see if you can get one side to spin in the dirt.
Its possible you have a weak motor. If you remove the drive motors and switch sides you can confirm if its a motor or pump issue. The pain of doing this is the fittings will need to move too... At least you now know the left side is in good shape, the prblem is the right.Ok I worked the bobcat today and it seems that the left wheels spin with ease when pushing on a tree but the right side don't seem to move at all. I looked at the pump and only see two hoses comin from the pump on the left side and three on the right side of the pump.
It should be a case of removing the three hoses and 4 bolts, the motor should slide out, you may need to tap it a little but it will go. Swap fittings or at least rotate them to an angle that you can hook up the lines again.
It could be as simple as a bad seal in the drive motor, but best to confirm if its the motor before pulling it down.
Ok thanx i will try that tomorrow. Didn't know the the drive motors worked on either side. If it ends up being a transmission pump issue do u think that a TA1919V1010R pump would work in replace of the TA1919V10R thats in there right now? Whats the diff between the 1010R and 10R? ThanxIts possible you have a weak motor. If you remove the drive motors and switch sides you can confirm if its a motor or pump issue. The pain of doing this is the fittings will need to move too... At least you now know the left side is in good shape, the prblem is the right.
It should be a case of removing the three hoses and 4 bolts, the motor should slide out, you may need to tap it a little but it will go. Swap fittings or at least rotate them to an angle that you can hook up the lines again.
It could be as simple as a bad seal in the drive motor, but best to confirm if its the motor before pulling it down.
Yeah, motors can be swapped no problem.Ok thanx i will try that tomorrow. Didn't know the the drive motors worked on either side. If it ends up being a transmission pump issue do u think that a TA1919V1010R pump would work in replace of the TA1919V10R thats in there right now? Whats the diff between the 1010R and 10R? Thanx
If there is any difference, its only the hydraulic pump. The TA1919 is the piston pump. The 10R is the hydraulic pump. Worst case, you may need to swap hydraulic pumps.
*IF* the problem is the pump, don't be too worried. They can be fully re-built at a pretty good price. I think the last one i did cost me under $1000. That included new seals all around, shims, bearings, rotating groups and wear plates. The pump was in pieces when i got it and had rusted slightly in storage.
Last night i switched drive motors around and found out that the one drive motor is the problem(sweet!!!glad it's not the transmission pump.) Just wondering if these drive motors are easy to rebuild? If not any idea where i could get a good deal on one?Yeah, motors can be swapped no problem.
If there is any difference, its only the hydraulic pump. The TA1919 is the piston pump. The 10R is the hydraulic pump. Worst case, you may need to swap hydraulic pumps.
*IF* the problem is the pump, don't be too worried. They can be fully re-built at a pretty good price. I think the last one i did cost me under $1000. That included new seals all around, shims, bearings, rotating groups and wear plates. The pump was in pieces when i got it and had rusted slightly in storage.
Good to hear its a motor. They are easy to rebuild, i just did two last weekend. They are just fiddly to get the timing right, but if you go by the guide, you will be fine.Last night i switched drive motors around and found out that the one drive motor is the problem(sweet!!!glad it's not the transmission pump.) Just wondering if these drive motors are easy to rebuild? If not any idea where i could get a good deal on one?
Give the outside of the motor a good general clean with solvent. Stamp with a centre punch the segments, this just makes it easier to re-assemble as you know exactly what goes where and what way up.
Remove the 4 bolts and remove the segments one by one. The geroler, the part with all the moving parts, make sure you don't flip anything around here. The rollers must go in the same way they are now and in the same locations. They will be slightly worn, you won't want to move them around. Remove the middle bit (geroler star), it should slide straight up, check for any wear marks, if it looks good, re-install it, and set it a side. remove the other parts looking for wear, its possible you have a problem with the main seals that are on the rear cap, even the shuttle valve that is under the allen headed plug.
If you are not up to the task of re-building the motor, loader parts source i believe are able to check it our and do it up for you too.
They really aren't complicated, they just take some time to make sure things are right and put back together. The ones i had, they had some wear marks on the valve plate, you wills ee this part as its joined with a small shaft with two gears. These two surfaces had wear marks which i removed with a sheet of glass and wet and dry sand paper. They should be in good shape now. For two motors they cost me $10 in seals as the main high pressure nylon ones were still in good shape.
I removed the 4 bolts and pulled the motor apart. Is there 3 or 4 segments to the pump? I have it in 3 parts but looks like the middle one(where the geroler is) might split in 2. Anyway the one seal on the front cap(the one in between the 1st and 2nd segment) looks pinched. Also the 2 springs that are inside the rear cap i found 1 of them was broken but still in tact. I have a rebuild kit coming from bobcat so hopefully it comes with those springs. Also some of the rollers have dimples and some don't i'm guessing that's normal?Good to hear its a motor. They are easy to rebuild, i just did two last weekend. They are just fiddly to get the timing right, but if you go by the guide, you will be fine.
Give the outside of the motor a good general clean with solvent. Stamp with a centre punch the segments, this just makes it easier to re-assemble as you know exactly what goes where and what way up.
Remove the 4 bolts and remove the segments one by one. The geroler, the part with all the moving parts, make sure you don't flip anything around here. The rollers must go in the same way they are now and in the same locations. They will be slightly worn, you won't want to move them around. Remove the middle bit (geroler star), it should slide straight up, check for any wear marks, if it looks good, re-install it, and set it a side. remove the other parts looking for wear, its possible you have a problem with the main seals that are on the rear cap, even the shuttle valve that is under the allen headed plug.
If you are not up to the task of re-building the motor, loader parts source i believe are able to check it our and do it up for you too.
They really aren't complicated, they just take some time to make sure things are right and put back together. The ones i had, they had some wear marks on the valve plate, you wills ee this part as its joined with a small shaft with two gears. These two surfaces had wear marks which i removed with a sheet of glass and wet and dry sand paper. They should be in good shape now. For two motors they cost me $10 in seals as the main high pressure nylon ones were still in good shape.
There are... three segments yes.I removed the 4 bolts and pulled the motor apart. Is there 3 or 4 segments to the pump? I have it in 3 parts but looks like the middle one(where the geroler is) might split in 2. Anyway the one seal on the front cap(the one in between the 1st and 2nd segment) looks pinched. Also the 2 springs that are inside the rear cap i found 1 of them was broken but still in tact. I have a rebuild kit coming from bobcat so hopefully it comes with those springs. Also some of the rollers have dimples and some don't i'm guessing that's normal?
The geroler is the part with the rollers and what looks like a star that rotates and has two shafts that connect to it.
I was concerned that you said some of the rollers had dimples, but then i remembered that they are on the ends, not on the rolling surfaces. These are normal, don't worry. The part you need to check is where they roll in the housing and the star that rotates. See if there are scores on them.
I doubt the kit will come with the spring, i suspect it will be a seal kit only. You will need to source a spring. Hopefully that is the cause of the problem. The springs hold pressure on the plate at the back where the seals go. It may have made it twist so oil was by-passing.
Does everything else look good? no deep scores?
Everything else looks to be in good shape(no scores anywhere). I had to order springs as the seal kit didn't come with any, but everything should be here on monday or tuesday.There are... three segments yes.
The geroler is the part with the rollers and what looks like a star that rotates and has two shafts that connect to it.
I was concerned that you said some of the rollers had dimples, but then i remembered that they are on the ends, not on the rolling surfaces. These are normal, don't worry. The part you need to check is where they roll in the housing and the star that rotates. See if there are scores on them.
I doubt the kit will come with the spring, i suspect it will be a seal kit only. You will need to source a spring. Hopefully that is the cause of the problem. The springs hold pressure on the plate at the back where the seals go. It may have made it twist so oil was by-passing.
Does everything else look good? no deep scores?
The rollers should be perfectly round, no flat spots.Everything else looks to be in good shape(no scores anywhere). I had to order springs as the seal kit didn't come with any, but everything should be here on monday or tuesday.
Ok i put the new springs in and still the same problem. just wondering if the geroler is worn out.......i was talking to a mech at bobcat and he was saying u shouldn't be able to turn the geroler with ease, mine turns with ease no problem.There are... three segments yes.
The geroler is the part with the rollers and what looks like a star that rotates and has two shafts that connect to it.
I was concerned that you said some of the rollers had dimples, but then i remembered that they are on the ends, not on the rolling surfaces. These are normal, don't worry. The part you need to check is where they roll in the housing and the star that rotates. See if there are scores on them.
I doubt the kit will come with the spring, i suspect it will be a seal kit only. You will need to source a spring. Hopefully that is the cause of the problem. The springs hold pressure on the plate at the back where the seals go. It may have made it twist so oil was by-passing.
Does everything else look good? no deep scores?
He is right, it should be quite tight. I need to use a pair of pliers to get it to turn by holding on to the shaft.Ok i put the new springs in and still the same problem. just wondering if the geroler is worn out.......i was talking to a mech at bobcat and he was saying u shouldn't be able to turn the geroler with ease, mine turns with ease no problem.
Its not something that should just happen though, it should wear slowly and get slower and slower over time.
I have no history of the bobcat so i don't know how long this has been goin on for. Maybe i will order a new geroler and cross my fingers.He is right, it should be quite tight. I need to use a pair of pliers to get it to turn by holding on to the shaft.
Its not something that should just happen though, it should wear slowly and get slower and slower over time.
If it turns easily, it has to be geroler wear allowing it to do so. Get a price from loader parts source, not just the dealer, they should be cheaper than genuine.I have no history of the bobcat so i don't know how long this has been goin on for. Maybe i will order a new geroler and cross my fingers.
Hey Tazza i was just thinking about those high pressure nylon seals you were talking about. My motor didn't have any of these in it but i got new ones with the seal kit!!!! What got me thinking about this is i pulled out the shuttle valve and inside was a bunch of little pieces of hard white plastic.If it turns easily, it has to be geroler wear allowing it to do so. Get a price from loader parts source, not just the dealer, they should be cheaper than genuine.
They are quite large, i wonder where they got to..... Almost sounds like someone was in there before you and gave up on the repair.Hey Tazza i was just thinking about those high pressure nylon seals you were talking about. My motor didn't have any of these in it but i got new ones with the seal kit!!!! What got me thinking about this is i pulled out the shuttle valve and inside was a bunch of little pieces of hard white plastic.
