743 swapping motor from v1702 to v1902

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SolarImages

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Hey all, I have read quite a bit about swapping a v1702 out for a v1902 looks very straight forward and I am going to remove my tired 1702 next (lots of blowby) my question is, is there a difference in the injection systems I believe I have seen a post by Ksteve that referred to his newly installed v1902 started much easier due to it having direct injection? Is that the case? If so what is the system difference between the two motors? Thanks all
 
Also if anyone is interested in the v1702 motor it run but has ugly blow by so it's hard starting a rebuilder wants to buy it for 250.00 let me know thanks
 
SolarImages said:
Also if anyone is interested in the v1702 motor it run but has ugly blow by so it's hard starting a rebuilder wants to buy it for 250.00 let me know thanks
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The problem is the inlet manifold. You need to use the one fron the V1702, that was the biggest issue as it was a different thickness making it a tight fit between the injector high pressure lines.
Shame i wasn't closer, i'd be interested in the old head.
 
Tazza said:
The problem is the inlet manifold. You need to use the one fron the V1702, that was the biggest issue as it was a different thickness making it a tight fit between the injector high pressure lines.
Shame i wasn't closer, i'd be interested in the old head.
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So i have removed the v1702 motor the drive shaft was stuck hard ended up cutting a hole in the plastic fan shroud so i could tap it lose and add a anti spray. Anyone suggest a good repair epoxy or something to glue the piece back in? Anyway i have now replaced the fly wheel, intake exhaust manifold, intake manifold and alternator and i am ready to reinstall after a couple hours of cleaning. Question now is what is the preferred mix for coolant? (I seem to be missing some pages in my manual) Also i noticed the radiator was clogged with mud as well as the hydrostatic cooler so i removed them both and cleaned them out but when i did i had to cut the flex pipe from the muffler any issues with wielding it back together? Now that i am close to reinstalling the motor i am recalling that the machine creeped and more importantly cranked slower sometimes as if the the hydrostatic pump was under load? any ideas? could the attachment lines be under load? if so how do you release that? shake the right hand control left to right? and In closing i am still hoping for someone to verify the v1902 is or is not direct injection thanks all for any help in this. Anyone need a non cracked v1702 head?
 
SolarImages said:
So i have removed the v1702 motor the drive shaft was stuck hard ended up cutting a hole in the plastic fan shroud so i could tap it lose and add a anti spray. Anyone suggest a good repair epoxy or something to glue the piece back in? Anyway i have now replaced the fly wheel, intake exhaust manifold, intake manifold and alternator and i am ready to reinstall after a couple hours of cleaning. Question now is what is the preferred mix for coolant? (I seem to be missing some pages in my manual) Also i noticed the radiator was clogged with mud as well as the hydrostatic cooler so i removed them both and cleaned them out but when i did i had to cut the flex pipe from the muffler any issues with wielding it back together? Now that i am close to reinstalling the motor i am recalling that the machine creeped and more importantly cranked slower sometimes as if the the hydrostatic pump was under load? any ideas? could the attachment lines be under load? if so how do you release that? shake the right hand control left to right? and In closing i am still hoping for someone to verify the v1902 is or is not direct injection thanks all for any help in this. Anyone need a non cracked v1702 head?
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The blower housing i have seen repaired with a piece of tin plate and rivits, worked just fine.
There is no problem welding the flex pipe, i brazed mine up as there were rust holes, 5+ years on and its still going strong.
The creeping is causing the extra load, this is a pump adjustment. http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/Steering Adjustment.jpg
Steering%20Adjustment.jpg

How do the injectors sit in the 1902? if they are round and go just off straight down pointing towards the glow plugs on the head, its indirect injection.
I am in need of a good 1702 head, but i think you live a little too far away from me :)
 
Tazza said:
The blower housing i have seen repaired with a piece of tin plate and rivits, worked just fine.
There is no problem welding the flex pipe, i brazed mine up as there were rust holes, 5+ years on and its still going strong.
The creeping is causing the extra load, this is a pump adjustment. http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/Steering%20Adjustment.jpg

How do the injectors sit in the 1902? if they are round and go just off straight down pointing towards the glow plugs on the head, its indirect injection.
I am in need of a good 1702 head, but i think you live a little too far away from me :)
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I have no issues shipping it but hmm i think you live outside the us. i would think the shipping would be prohibitive but i would just give you the head the advice here is worth it to me. Also i have many other good 1702 parts if anyone wants them you pay shipping. Cheers
 
SolarImages said:
I have no issues shipping it but hmm i think you live outside the us. i would think the shipping would be prohibitive but i would just give you the head the advice here is worth it to me. Also i have many other good 1702 parts if anyone wants them you pay shipping. Cheers
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hmm thanks for the info on the indirect direct injection will check tomorrow.
 
SolarImages said:
hmm thanks for the info on the indirect direct injection will check tomorrow.
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I live in Australia, just a slight paddle away from the USA :)
When you adjust your steering, jack it up so all 4 wheels are free to move. Start with the rear stops then when its right, work on the front ones. It does take a lot of fiddling to get it right, mine still isn't spot on, but its good enough for me.
 
Tazza said:
I live in Australia, just a slight paddle away from the USA :)
When you adjust your steering, jack it up so all 4 wheels are free to move. Start with the rear stops then when its right, work on the front ones. It does take a lot of fiddling to get it right, mine still isn't spot on, but its good enough for me.
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So i have finished the install and fired the v1902 up she purrs like a kitten (had to replace injector box o-rings) But everything else bolted up and worked great need to hit glows plugs for 2 seconds when cold then not at all after warm no blow by no leaks yay. So now i need to rebuild one of the lift arm cylinders and i think i got all of it working again. thanks for the help.
 
SolarImages said:
So i have finished the install and fired the v1902 up she purrs like a kitten (had to replace injector box o-rings) But everything else bolted up and worked great need to hit glows plugs for 2 seconds when cold then not at all after warm no blow by no leaks yay. So now i need to rebuild one of the lift arm cylinders and i think i got all of it working again. thanks for the help.
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Solar, what part of the US are you in? ( I'm in PA ) I may be interested in the complete motor. Are you near a UPS shipping depot or freight company? Shipping costs would be a factor.
 
CASE 1840 said:
Solar, what part of the US are you in? ( I'm in PA ) I may be interested in the complete motor. Are you near a UPS shipping depot or freight company? Shipping costs would be a factor.
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I am in AZ. and i could bring it to a shipping location if there were one to be found in Sierra vista. At this point I have sold the head yesterday. When i was taking the motor out no one expressed interest so when i got to the point of knocking the drive shaft lose one of the studs in the block top for bolting down the head was annoying me so i cut it off not flush so it could easily be removed. Let me know if you still want what is left YRC was the shipping company that delivered my new motor would be happy not to send it to the scrap yard.
 
SolarImages said:
I am in AZ. and i could bring it to a shipping location if there were one to be found in Sierra vista. At this point I have sold the head yesterday. When i was taking the motor out no one expressed interest so when i got to the point of knocking the drive shaft lose one of the studs in the block top for bolting down the head was annoying me so i cut it off not flush so it could easily be removed. Let me know if you still want what is left YRC was the shipping company that delivered my new motor would be happy not to send it to the scrap yard.
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So I have just finished adjusting the skidsteer controls on the 743 I am happy to announce it does not creep anymore, thanks for the help Tazza. So now that i have cleaned, lubed, removed packrat nest and a couple sheared grease zerts, I now notice i have one left arm cylinder seaping a tiny bit. I am thinking i should do seals and piston rings on the cylinder and while i am doing one i should do both.. any thoughts?
 
SolarImages said:
So I have just finished adjusting the skidsteer controls on the 743 I am happy to announce it does not creep anymore, thanks for the help Tazza. So now that i have cleaned, lubed, removed packrat nest and a couple sheared grease zerts, I now notice i have one left arm cylinder seaping a tiny bit. I am thinking i should do seals and piston rings on the cylinder and while i am doing one i should do both.. any thoughts?
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Good to hear its running well. You have done all the hard bits, the lift ram seals are pretty simple.
 

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