743 pivot pin - replacing loader arm bushing?

[oracle_of_ferndale]

The right-side pin connecting loader arms to bobtach on my machine breaks frequently. The tapered hole in the arm looks to be warped.

The parts catalog offers a replacement bushing that you can weld onto the loader arm. Can't find detailed instructions for installation. Dealer offered to do this for $2,000, which seems high even for a dealer.

Can anyone offer tips on this repair or alternative solutions? My machine has the "old style" 40 series lift arms. The part is less than $40.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bobcat-Tapered-Bushing-Loader-Arm-Repair-732-741-742-743-Pin-Skid-Steer-6714874/322499792409?epid=2199490763&hash=item4b167c4e19:g:rSIAAOSwc1FXcYJR:rk:16f:0

 

[Tazza]

Years ago, i bought a 743 that was in such bad shape, the bobtach pins were drilled out and bolts installed, that was the pivot pins.... When like this, the lift arms had no tapers anymore. I have a lathe, so i made new tapered bosses and pins to match. If you have the gear, could this be an option?
I set my cross slide to the angle i wanted and didn't change it. This way i was able to cut the pin and boss tapers exactly the same. When the pins and bosses were done, i got a length of rod and cut tapers both ends so that when the bosses were installed, they were in the correct location in the lift arms. This way i knew 100% that they were in perfect alignment. When welded in, i cut the bar and knocked the tapers out so i could use my new pins.

 

[oracle_of_ferndale]

Years ago, i bought a 743 that was in such bad shape, the bobtach pins were drilled out and bolts installed, that was the pivot pins.... When like this, the lift arms had no tapers anymore. I have a lathe, so i made new tapered bosses and pins to match. If you have the gear, could this be an option?
I set my cross slide to the angle i wanted and didn't change it. This way i was able to cut the pin and boss tapers exactly the same. When the pins and bosses were done, i got a length of rod and cut tapers both ends so that when the bosses were installed, they were in the correct location in the lift arms. This way i knew 100% that they were in perfect alignment. When welded in, i cut the bar and knocked the tapers out so i could use my new pins.

Tazza - I am without a lathe (and jealous of yours), but there is a good machine shop nearby. I will check on their price.

The aftermarket pins and bushings are from the same source and should fit together reasonably well. I am wondering if I can just cut the end off the loader arm with a torch, smooth it out with a grinder and weld on the bushing, or does it require more precision? Your reply suggests precision is important.

 

[renopker]

Tazza - I am without a lathe (and jealous of yours), but there is a good machine shop nearby. I will check on their price.

The aftermarket pins and bushings are from the same source and should fit together reasonably well. I am wondering if I can just cut the end off the loader arm with a torch, smooth it out with a grinder and weld on the bushing, or does it require more precision? Your reply suggests precision is important.

http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=AddPost&PostID=104705&mode=flat

 

[renopker]

Tazza - I am without a lathe (and jealous of yours), but there is a good machine shop nearby. I will check on their price.

The aftermarket pins and bushings are from the same source and should fit together reasonably well. I am wondering if I can just cut the end off the loader arm with a torch, smooth it out with a grinder and weld on the bushing, or does it require more precision? Your reply suggests precision is important.

 

[Tazza]

Cutting the bushing out and welding a new one in is an option, but you do need to line the two pins up.
If you measure the pin diameter and get some tube the same ID and put it between the two pins so they are lined up while welding. Just weld slow to keep it from moving too much.