I have a 743 Serial Number 501945693. Dealer wants $1275 labor and $115 parts to replace axle seals and adjust the travel on this machine. He said some 743's with certain serial numbers, the axle has to come completely out. Is this quote high for this serial number?
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Early 743 had a one piece axle shaft, so the axle has to be completely pulled out. At that point a person might as well do bearing since you have to remove them. Front axles are not bad, rears are a bear since the hydrostatic is in the way. Either curse around it or pull it out. I quote 6 hours of labor per axle remove/ install job on newer machines where the back axle bolt and sprocket are much easier to get at. I'd probably charge more on a 40's. Moving on, 743B have the newer two piece axle. Much simpler because the axle doesn't come out. Remove the hub, replace the seal. I'd quote 2 hours per seal because sometimes the hubs can be fun to get off. To tell which hub you have for sure, look at it, does it have a big center bolt? That's a two piece. One piece, there is no bolt. Not knowing the dealers hourly rate, I can only guess they are quoting 12+ hours of labor. So my guess is that is the worse case price if it is a one piece.
antfarmer2
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I agree with Dan I just did mine seals bearings and wear sleaves I pulled the chaincase off to do it got the bearings and seals for $200.00 from LPS wear sleaves from the dealer $20.00 each a PITA but did it myselfEarly 743 had a one piece axle shaft, so the axle has to be completely pulled out. At that point a person might as well do bearing since you have to remove them. Front axles are not bad, rears are a bear since the hydrostatic is in the way. Either curse around it or pull it out. I quote 6 hours of labor per axle remove/ install job on newer machines where the back axle bolt and sprocket are much easier to get at. I'd probably charge more on a 40's. Moving on, 743B have the newer two piece axle. Much simpler because the axle doesn't come out. Remove the hub, replace the seal. I'd quote 2 hours per seal because sometimes the hubs can be fun to get off. To tell which hub you have for sure, look at it, does it have a big center bolt? That's a two piece. One piece, there is no bolt. Not knowing the dealers hourly rate, I can only guess they are quoting 12+ hours of labor. So my guess is that is the worse case price if it is a one piece.
If you have the gear, you can drop the chain case and do the work your self. If you are going that deep, do all 4 seals and possibly bearings if they look at all worn.I agree with Dan I just did mine seals bearings and wear sleaves I pulled the chaincase off to do it got the bearings and seals for $200.00 from LPS wear sleaves from the dealer $20.00 each a PITA but did it myself
OK, I only worked on bobcats for 10 years, what do you guys mean by dropping the chaincase? It is the bottom of the entire skidsteer.If you have the gear, you can drop the chain case and do the work your self. If you are going that deep, do all 4 seals and possibly bearings if they look at all worn.
antfarmer2
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Ok picky roll it out I took off the drive motors took out the steering then twenty bolts holding the chaincase leaving the front two in till I blocked the front then got a big thick walled pipe and lifted the back up so I could roll it out the is a leaver that is on the top of the chaincase that you have to take a nut off as you lift itOK, I only worked on bobcats for 10 years, what do you guys mean by dropping the chaincase? It is the bottom of the entire skidsteer.
antfarmer2
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And did the job by myselfOk picky roll it out I took off the drive motors took out the steering then twenty bolts holding the chaincase leaving the front two in till I blocked the front then got a big thick walled pipe and lifted the back up so I could roll it out the is a leaver that is on the top of the chaincase that you have to take a nut off as you lift it
Wow, that sounds like so much extra work its funny. Front axles are easy. Just take the top cover off and there is everything. The rears are more fun since the hydro is over the center cover and there is no tear cover. Some guys just lift the hydro up enough to work around it. I just pull it, it only takes about a half an hour to remove. No need to remove drive motors. I have only removed the chaincase from the body to replace the chaincase housing.And did the job by myself
All this sounds good to the guy who is familiar to the machine, however, I'm afraid I will have to bit the bullet and find a mechanic because I am not that familiar. Thanks for all the advice and replies….Have Good Day GuysWow, that sounds like so much extra work its funny. Front axles are easy. Just take the top cover off and there is everything. The rears are more fun since the hydro is over the center cover and there is no tear cover. Some guys just lift the hydro up enough to work around it. I just pull it, it only takes about a half an hour to remove. No need to remove drive motors. I have only removed the chaincase from the body to replace the chaincase housing.
antfarmer2
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Fist time ever working on one and rebuilt the gear reduction box's bearings and chains so much easyer to PULL the chaincase would not evan want to think about trying to put the back races in with it together it was hard enough to get in there with it out not small enough to get in there 6'4" #240 also pulled the engine to do ujoints would make no sence to pull the hydro and a real pita to put the hydro back in by myself no shop here with helpers.........once the dealer has yours you will owe more than it is worth if you want to do it yourself I will talk you through it on the phoneAll this sounds good to the guy who is familiar to the machine, however, I'm afraid I will have to bit the bullet and find a mechanic because I am not that familiar. Thanks for all the advice and replies….Have Good Day Guys
antfarmer2
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Did you misspell rear cover to tear cover? If so mine must be differant than the ones you worked on mine has a rear coverWow, that sounds like so much extra work its funny. Front axles are easy. Just take the top cover off and there is everything. The rears are more fun since the hydro is over the center cover and there is no tear cover. Some guys just lift the hydro up enough to work around it. I just pull it, it only takes about a half an hour to remove. No need to remove drive motors. I have only removed the chaincase from the body to replace the chaincase housing.
Good old auto correct. Never saw a 40 series with more then two cover. 50 series and newer have three covers. Inner bearing races are easy. Get them started straight and pull them in with a long threaded rod from the out side, no hammering needed. Either way, 40 series are junk and I hate working on them, most are not worth the effort to fix anymore anyways.Did you misspell rear cover to tear cover? If so mine must be differant than the ones you worked on mine has a rear cover
antfarmer2
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Ok hat is what mine had one front one back I tryed the threaded rod must not have been good enough just striped the threads got in there with my porta- power and pushed them inGood old auto correct. Never saw a 40 series with more then two cover. 50 series and newer have three covers. Inner bearing races are easy. Get them started straight and pull them in with a long threaded rod from the out side, no hammering needed. Either way, 40 series are junk and I hate working on them, most are not worth the effort to fix anymore anyways.
antfarmer2
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Sorry ......that ......no auto correctOk hat is what mine had one front one back I tryed the threaded rod must not have been good enough just striped the threads got in there with my porta- power and pushed them in
Dan - it's a lot easier to work on it with the chain case out. As generally the rear seals are the ones that leak (it's always the hard to get to ones).Sorry ......that ......no auto correct
I have not needed to work on one in a machine, so i'm lucky. On the ones i have worked on, i had my dad to assist with it. I also hung the chaincase on it's end so gravity wasn't against me with lining up sprockets. They are quite heavy and hard to get into position to get the axle through it.
How much time are you guys spending splitting the machine? I can do axle removal and install with yanking the hydro out in under 10 hours.Dan - it's a lot easier to work on it with the chain case out. As generally the rear seals are the ones that leak (it's always the hard to get to ones).
I have not needed to work on one in a machine, so i'm lucky. On the ones i have worked on, i had my dad to assist with it. I also hung the chaincase on it's end so gravity wasn't against me with lining up sprockets. They are quite heavy and hard to get into position to get the axle through it.
antfarmer2
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I could get it out myself in a couple hours now but time is not a issue old and retierd but haveing my ass higher than my head is and still don't think I could get in there your way by myselfHow much time are you guys spending splitting the machine? I can do axle removal and install with yanking the hydro out in under 10 hours.
