610 steering problem m610

[m610]

I have a 68 m444, just got it 3weeks ago, first one, after alot of this and thats, got it running. It has a speed control, and I found out that I have to bump it just off from the lowest speed and it will turn good then . If your drive belt is wet with oil then it is slipping and wont turn. Watch your jackshaft behind your seat while turning if it stops or like really slows down and belt is flopping up and down it will not turn. Had to do some adjusting on my clutch disks as well, reverse disks too tight and wanting to go back instead of forward. Have to replace both forward disks one very weak /worn. You will have to get things pretty darn good and close/ fine tuning so to say. So far I had to do the valves, carb,right jackshaft bearing, points/condensor,and lots of little things just to get it to run. And I dont have alot of money tied up in it. Remember that these are old machines and dont have the stuff that the new ones got..Good luck, you will get it going, just takes some time and patience..

It always amazes me how many old Bobcats are still out there, running! My old one is very close to being completely disassembled, repainted and restored to original looks. Depending on what you use your Bobcat for you may get years of life out of it. An M444 would be a real oldie, but just fine for those home projects. A neat thing about them is that they don't sould like the later Bobcats, but have that tractor chugging sound that's not as annoying. Good mention about jackshaft bearings, they go bad from age and corrosion, and make a rumbling sound when in use. The biggest problem with these old machines is being able to get them apart due to all the rust. On my M610 it is impossible to see the jackshaft without removing the seat but as an alternative you can look at your voltmeter/ammmeter if it works and see if the shaft is turning as the alternator is connected to the jackshaft not the engine. Also with no power going to the jackshaft the hydraulic pump will not be working. Try moving the lift arms or bucket when the machine does not turn, that will show whether the belt is slipping.

 

[mitsubishiparts]

It always amazes me how many old Bobcats are still out there, running! My old one is very close to being completely disassembled, repainted and restored to original looks. Depending on what you use your Bobcat for you may get years of life out of it. An M444 would be a real oldie, but just fine for those home projects. A neat thing about them is that they don't sould like the later Bobcats, but have that tractor chugging sound that's not as annoying. Good mention about jackshaft bearings, they go bad from age and corrosion, and make a rumbling sound when in use. The biggest problem with these old machines is being able to get them apart due to all the rust. On my M610 it is impossible to see the jackshaft without removing the seat but as an alternative you can look at your voltmeter/ammmeter if it works and see if the shaft is turning as the alternator is connected to the jackshaft not the engine. Also with no power going to the jackshaft the hydraulic pump will not be working. Try moving the lift arms or bucket when the machine does not turn, that will show whether the belt is slipping.

Here is a update, I've bought the carb kit from Napa ($35), cap and rotor (maybe $20), After replacing what I could in the carb and doing the cap/rotor it fired right up once it got fuel, They also had the exhaust manifold gaskets for $11 and it made it MUCH quieter. Now that its running quite well (it does have some blowby as evidenced by the blue smoke coming from that breather), I want to replace the belt, I can tell the jackshaft is working because the machine is useable but not on "low speed" only when the belt is tensioned up some, I assume this is from a worn belt, it does flop some on the low setting. I was amazed at the stiffness of the new belt and I'm sure it will help a LOT! If anyone can send me a scanned picture of the repair book section for the belt that would be great!!! [email protected] I was using the bcat today and I broke a tilt hydraulic cylinder, I measured it and it looks to be a 24" x 2.5" and it was $150 from northern tool, are there any other places you can think of to buy these?

 

[mitsubishiparts]

Here is a update, I've bought the carb kit from Napa ($35), cap and rotor (maybe $20), After replacing what I could in the carb and doing the cap/rotor it fired right up once it got fuel, They also had the exhaust manifold gaskets for $11 and it made it MUCH quieter. Now that its running quite well (it does have some blowby as evidenced by the blue smoke coming from that breather), I want to replace the belt, I can tell the jackshaft is working because the machine is useable but not on "low speed" only when the belt is tensioned up some, I assume this is from a worn belt, it does flop some on the low setting. I was amazed at the stiffness of the new belt and I'm sure it will help a LOT! If anyone can send me a scanned picture of the repair book section for the belt that would be great!!! [email protected] I was using the bcat today and I broke a tilt hydraulic cylinder, I measured it and it looks to be a 24" x 2.5" and it was $150 from northern tool, are there any other places you can think of to buy these?

Oh, and drivebelt was $108 at bobcat of portland.

 

[mitsubishiparts]

Oh, and drivebelt was $108 at bobcat of portland.

Oh yeah, and while I'm doing the belt, I should do the jackshaft bearings, it seems to be a little rumbly when its just idleing. Thanks!!!!!!!

 

[Tazza]

Oh yeah, and while I'm doing the belt, I should do the jackshaft bearings, it seems to be a little rumbly when its just idleing. Thanks!!!!!!!

Blue smoke means its burning a bit of oil, hopefully just your valve stem seals. If not, its probably worn rings.
Just what broke on your tilt ram? can you weld it back on?

 

[jerry]

Blue smoke means its burning a bit of oil, hopefully just your valve stem seals. If not, its probably worn rings.
Just what broke on your tilt ram? can you weld it back on?

I'm with Tazza on that one, take a look at the cylinder, if it broke almost everything on it can be replaced at a cylinder shop or at home. Also when you get a chance change the points and condenser in the dist and under the point plate is a mechanical centrifugal advance. These do rust up make sure it is working freely as it affects starting and power. Those Wisconsin engines do build up carbon on the head to the point of it affecting the operation and I think it is mentioned in the book. put some Sea Foam or mystery oil in the gas and it will run better.

 

[mitsubishiparts]

I'm with Tazza on that one, take a look at the cylinder, if it broke almost everything on it can be replaced at a cylinder shop or at home. Also when you get a chance change the points and condenser in the dist and under the point plate is a mechanical centrifugal advance. These do rust up make sure it is working freely as it affects starting and power. Those Wisconsin engines do build up carbon on the head to the point of it affecting the operation and I think it is mentioned in the book. put some Sea Foam or mystery oil in the gas and it will run better.

Oh, I didn't replace the electrical under the cap because it looked to be in very new condition. It looks like the ram was welded prior to this accident and I was just looking for a newer one but I might just reweld it up and go.

 

[jerry]

Oh, I didn't replace the electrical under the cap because it looked to be in very new condition. It looks like the ram was welded prior to this accident and I was just looking for a newer one but I might just reweld it up and go.

Just guessing the pin retainer broke off the rod? If it was welded before and broke it was a poor job of welding. If it is the rod retainer be sure to chamfer the end of the rod, do not butt weld it. Whether it is chamfered in a lathe or by hand on a grinder makes no difference. If that is a 1 1/8 rod chamfer it about 1/4 to 3/8 on a side at about 45 degrees try to leave a small flat at the bottom of the chamfer so you get a good solid weld. you can tell on the rod how far it retracts into the tube so don't get any weld or spatter on that area. Be sure any weld on the lift system is good, you don't want it to break at the wrong time.

 

[mitsubishiparts]

Just guessing the pin retainer broke off the rod? If it was welded before and broke it was a poor job of welding. If it is the rod retainer be sure to chamfer the end of the rod, do not butt weld it. Whether it is chamfered in a lathe or by hand on a grinder makes no difference. If that is a 1 1/8 rod chamfer it about 1/4 to 3/8 on a side at about 45 degrees try to leave a small flat at the bottom of the chamfer so you get a good solid weld. you can tell on the rod how far it retracts into the tube so don't get any weld or spatter on that area. Be sure any weld on the lift system is good, you don't want it to break at the wrong time.

Its looking like I'm going to try and reweld that retainer nut on. Thanks for the advice on the angle grind for a solid weld.. If I cant get this right, what harm would it be to run a stock 1 1/8 rod on one side and a aftermarket 1.5" rod on the other?

 

[jerry]

Its looking like I'm going to try and reweld that retainer nut on. Thanks for the advice on the angle grind for a solid weld.. If I cant get this right, what harm would it be to run a stock 1 1/8 rod on one side and a aftermarket 1.5" rod on the other?

That is a good question. I would think that they would move at a rate to keep the pressure the same in both cyls but when dumping it may not work and the stroke would have to be the same on both so you did not twist your bucket at the end of stroke. If you don't want to weld it check with a shop it may not be too expensive to have them do it.

 

[Tazza]

That is a good question. I would think that they would move at a rate to keep the pressure the same in both cyls but when dumping it may not work and the stroke would have to be the same on both so you did not twist your bucket at the end of stroke. If you don't want to weld it check with a shop it may not be too expensive to have them do it.

Bad idea
It will dump correctly as pressures will be the same and it will equalize as both sides are linked together. With tilting back i see a problem, you will have a lower surface area which will give you less power which i can see could be a problem. One side will pull harder and i can see bending or un-even wear happening here.
Essentially a larger stick will reduce the operating force for that side, a smaller one will increase it. I really do think the sticks should be the same size to prevent any possible problems.