610 steering problem m610

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My clutches look newer (and were supposedly recently replaced), they seem to be in adjustment (3-4" of travel in the sticks). My question is, is there any chance that if the ATF is low in the housing of the cat, will that make the machine not turn? My bobcat will only turn when its just started up, acts like it does not have the power to turn it or that the turning mechanism (clutch?) isn't recieving the power the motor is obviously making. The machine will go forwards and backwards ok and only nudge itself in turns. This is my first bobcat and I just bought it, I've just now pulled the covers and took my first look at the guts, I cant really see much in movement of the clutches when you pull the lever but again, I'm not really sure what I'm looking for. Thanks, Paul Is there anyone on here that would be willing to swap phone numbers via email so I can talk in real time to someone who could help? My email is [email protected]
 
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Oh, reason I ask about the low fluid is, that mine seems to be a few inches low compared to the "fill to here" mark. Also, it will turn for the first few seconds of being started if that helps (doesn't turn stong tho).
 

skidsteer.ca

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Oh, reason I ask about the low fluid is, that mine seems to be a few inches low compared to the "fill to here" mark. Also, it will turn for the first few seconds of being started if that helps (doesn't turn stong tho).
My knowledge of the wet clutch type machines is limited to a 371 I owned for a short time. But the clutches are designed to be submersed in oil so if its low that could be the problem.
3 to 4 inches sounds about right for lever travel. I guess just make sure the linkage is not binding up somewhere and the pressure is going to the clutches. The 371 had large diameter clutch discs and it did not take alot of pressure on the levers to make them hold without slipping. The loader would spin around easily.
Ken
 
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My knowledge of the wet clutch type machines is limited to a 371 I owned for a short time. But the clutches are designed to be submersed in oil so if its low that could be the problem.
3 to 4 inches sounds about right for lever travel. I guess just make sure the linkage is not binding up somewhere and the pressure is going to the clutches. The 371 had large diameter clutch discs and it did not take alot of pressure on the levers to make them hold without slipping. The loader would spin around easily.
Ken
It looks like the clutches are up high, and out of the fluid. I may be mistaken I have no experience!
 

skidsteer.ca

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It looks like the clutches are up high, and out of the fluid. I may be mistaken I have no experience!
Well I'm by no means a expert on this model, see if you can pm or email the member m610 about this. There are others here with these machines, someone should pop by soon
Ken
 

skidsteer.ca

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Well I'm by no means a expert on this model, see if you can pm or email the member m610 about this. There are others here with these machines, someone should pop by soon
Ken
I just checked but m610 email is not with his user name, but he posted here in the end of Dec, may well have visited since then. So letws hope he drops in.
Also often the dealers will fax you a few sheets from a manual to help you out. Try asking a few, then when you need a part you will have a pretty good idea which one you want to call.
Sorry I'm not more help
Ken
 
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I just checked but m610 email is not with his user name, but he posted here in the end of Dec, may well have visited since then. So letws hope he drops in.
Also often the dealers will fax you a few sheets from a manual to help you out. Try asking a few, then when you need a part you will have a pretty good idea which one you want to call.
Sorry I'm not more help
Ken
Thats ok, My local bobcat dealership is closed on the weekend. I'll be in touch with them monday.
 

m610

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Thats ok, My local bobcat dealership is closed on the weekend. I'll be in touch with them monday.
There are many things to look for. First of all, check your drive belt tension. If it slips you will not be able to turn. The clutches are not designed to be submerged in oil, the oil in the reservoir is for the chains and sprockets and returns to the pump. Oil for the clutch assemblies is supplied from the hydraulic system, pop up the seat and you will see the 1/2" od tubing connecting to the fittings behind the clutches. Oil runs out of the clutches and back to the bottom of the case. You would not notice much movement in the clutch assemblies when moving the levers, as it simply loosens or tightens nuts on the clutch shaft, the motion of the plates is only a small fraction of an inch. Because the loader moves and turns at times, I am lead to believe that the chains are good and no sprockets are bad. For a schematic of the drive system, you can refer to page 3-1 of the service manual (if you have one). If chains are coming off the sprockets, then bad bearings would be suspected. I have a lot of experience with older Bobcats and have owned an M-610 for over 20 years. I am happy to answer any questions you have about this classic Bobcat.
 
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There are many things to look for. First of all, check your drive belt tension. If it slips you will not be able to turn. The clutches are not designed to be submerged in oil, the oil in the reservoir is for the chains and sprockets and returns to the pump. Oil for the clutch assemblies is supplied from the hydraulic system, pop up the seat and you will see the 1/2" od tubing connecting to the fittings behind the clutches. Oil runs out of the clutches and back to the bottom of the case. You would not notice much movement in the clutch assemblies when moving the levers, as it simply loosens or tightens nuts on the clutch shaft, the motion of the plates is only a small fraction of an inch. Because the loader moves and turns at times, I am lead to believe that the chains are good and no sprockets are bad. For a schematic of the drive system, you can refer to page 3-1 of the service manual (if you have one). If chains are coming off the sprockets, then bad bearings would be suspected. I have a lot of experience with older Bobcats and have owned an M-610 for over 20 years. I am happy to answer any questions you have about this classic Bobcat.
Is there any chance I can get your email? Mine is [email protected] if you would send me a email I'd love it, if not. Then please be so kind as to help a young rookie out with this awesome machine! I put about 4 gallons of fluid in it tonight but it was to dark to do anything with the bobcat plus it was needing a jump start so I figure I'll do that in the morning. Do you think being that low on fluid did any real damage? I hope not. I dont have a manual yet but I plan on getting one. The guy I bought it from said he's pretty sure he still has his, he's "looking for it". What is the play that is allowed in the drive belt? I'll look forward to being able to check that! Thanks, Paul
 
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Is there any chance I can get your email? Mine is [email protected] if you would send me a email I'd love it, if not. Then please be so kind as to help a young rookie out with this awesome machine! I put about 4 gallons of fluid in it tonight but it was to dark to do anything with the bobcat plus it was needing a jump start so I figure I'll do that in the morning. Do you think being that low on fluid did any real damage? I hope not. I dont have a manual yet but I plan on getting one. The guy I bought it from said he's pretty sure he still has his, he's "looking for it". What is the play that is allowed in the drive belt? I'll look forward to being able to check that! Thanks, Paul
I started it this morning and same deal, turns ok for about 1/3 of a turn maybe 60 degrees in a circle. Then, would only nudge itself back. I see the feed line to the clutch system, I think its working ok mainly because when I pulled the cover, the clutch still was kinda dripping or wet. My drive belt and speed setting pully "look" like they are functioning, but there is some greese/slickness to the belt as there is a small leak on that feed line to the left rear clutch, its not a major leak but its been there a while as the undercarage area is quite dirty. Would a wet/slick substance on the belt be causing this? What is the solution, can I clean it somehow and try to stop that leak? Thanks, Paul
 

skidsteer.ca

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I started it this morning and same deal, turns ok for about 1/3 of a turn maybe 60 degrees in a circle. Then, would only nudge itself back. I see the feed line to the clutch system, I think its working ok mainly because when I pulled the cover, the clutch still was kinda dripping or wet. My drive belt and speed setting pully "look" like they are functioning, but there is some greese/slickness to the belt as there is a small leak on that feed line to the left rear clutch, its not a major leak but its been there a while as the undercarage area is quite dirty. Would a wet/slick substance on the belt be causing this? What is the solution, can I clean it somehow and try to stop that leak? Thanks, Paul
Paul
That is likely you problem. You need to fix the leak. Depending on how long the belt has had oil on it it may have gone soft too. You could wash it with dish soap or simular and try it. A new belt should not be that much either.
My only expierence with cvt drives is in snowmobiles, but they don't like gease or oil.
Ken
 

jerry

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Paul
That is likely you problem. You need to fix the leak. Depending on how long the belt has had oil on it it may have gone soft too. You could wash it with dish soap or simular and try it. A new belt should not be that much either.
My only expierence with cvt drives is in snowmobiles, but they don't like gease or oil.
Ken
If you are in a cold climate you can't use a very thick oil in the chain cases or the clutch simply will not grab. Use atf or hydraulic oil. The belt must be reasonably dry also. The clutch is operated by a cam behind the clutch plates. If it is only one clutch then suspect the thrust bearings on the cam although that usually gives you excessive lever travel also.
 

jerry

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If you are in a cold climate you can't use a very thick oil in the chain cases or the clutch simply will not grab. Use atf or hydraulic oil. The belt must be reasonably dry also. The clutch is operated by a cam behind the clutch plates. If it is only one clutch then suspect the thrust bearings on the cam although that usually gives you excessive lever travel also.
After rereading your first post I see you are using atf so thick oil should not be a problem. If you can see the driven sheave turning when the machine is running and you push the levers then you should go, unless the clutches are slipping. Oil squirts all over if you run it with the chain case cover off but you may have to do that to see what is not turning in there. May be a sheared key on the driven sheave shaft even.
 
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Paul
That is likely you problem. You need to fix the leak. Depending on how long the belt has had oil on it it may have gone soft too. You could wash it with dish soap or simular and try it. A new belt should not be that much either.
My only expierence with cvt drives is in snowmobiles, but they don't like gease or oil.
Ken
Ok, Well I put some super clean in the engine bay / belt area. I then pressure washed it all, I also put some belt dressing on it hoping to make it grab better. I didn't fix the leak yet but I will. The machine basically did the same thing BUT, when I put it in high gear and the belt is tighter, the machine will turn and operate normally or 90% of normal as I can only imagine. I was able to do some tinkering around with it for a few minutes and I'm thinking I should just replace th old belt and fix the leak, I think that will square the machine up! I really appreciate your ideas and I'm happy to have found this site!
 
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Ok, Well I put some super clean in the engine bay / belt area. I then pressure washed it all, I also put some belt dressing on it hoping to make it grab better. I didn't fix the leak yet but I will. The machine basically did the same thing BUT, when I put it in high gear and the belt is tighter, the machine will turn and operate normally or 90% of normal as I can only imagine. I was able to do some tinkering around with it for a few minutes and I'm thinking I should just replace th old belt and fix the leak, I think that will square the machine up! I really appreciate your ideas and I'm happy to have found this site!
Oh, is there a website or recommended store to buy the parts for these from? I need a belt, exhaust manifold "rings" or gaskets, ignition tuneup parts, carburator parts (its not wanting to idle and adjusting the mixture screw makes basically no difference in how it runs) Any other suggestions I should do on the motor to spruce it up?
 

m610

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Oh, is there a website or recommended store to buy the parts for these from? I need a belt, exhaust manifold "rings" or gaskets, ignition tuneup parts, carburator parts (its not wanting to idle and adjusting the mixture screw makes basically no difference in how it runs) Any other suggestions I should do on the motor to spruce it up?
I suppose you could get parts from the Bobcat dealer, but I was getting parts from many different places. NAPA used to carry Wisconsin parts, but I am sure other auto parts or even ebay can suffice. The belt I ordered out of a catalog, but that was pre-internet. On the engine check your compression, check your ignition system. The Zenith carbeuretor is simple and I have even made home-made gaskets for it with success. Don't forget a nice oil change and filter.
 
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I suppose you could get parts from the Bobcat dealer, but I was getting parts from many different places. NAPA used to carry Wisconsin parts, but I am sure other auto parts or even ebay can suffice. The belt I ordered out of a catalog, but that was pre-internet. On the engine check your compression, check your ignition system. The Zenith carbeuretor is simple and I have even made home-made gaskets for it with success. Don't forget a nice oil change and filter.
Ever need to change out the exhaust manifold 0-rings? Looks like I have one blown out (loud/smokey) Hopefully the manifold unbolts easy.. I'm gonna spray some penetrating lube and let it sit for a day or so.
 

jerry

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Ever need to change out the exhaust manifold 0-rings? Looks like I have one blown out (loud/smokey) Hopefully the manifold unbolts easy.. I'm gonna spray some penetrating lube and let it sit for a day or so.
A couple years ago a drive belt was $90 at bobcat. Most of the engine tune up parts are available thru Napa or other auto parts places. The 610 we had took quite a bit to start the first time if it had sat for some time like a few days or more. I put a outboard motor primer bulb in the gas line and would pump it up first then it would start right up. They seem to have a weak fuel pump.
 

beck5012

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A couple years ago a drive belt was $90 at bobcat. Most of the engine tune up parts are available thru Napa or other auto parts places. The 610 we had took quite a bit to start the first time if it had sat for some time like a few days or more. I put a outboard motor primer bulb in the gas line and would pump it up first then it would start right up. They seem to have a weak fuel pump.
I have a 68 m444, just got it 3weeks ago, first one, after alot of this and thats, got it running. It has a speed control, and I found out that I have to bump it just off from the lowest speed and it will turn good then . If your drive belt is wet with oil then it is slipping and wont turn. Watch your jackshaft behind your seat while turning if it stops or like really slows down and belt is flopping up and down it will not turn. Had to do some adjusting on my clutch disks as well, reverse disks too tight and wanting to go back instead of forward. Have to replace both forward disks one very weak /worn. You will have to get things pretty darn good and close/ fine tuning so to say. So far I had to do the valves, carb,right jackshaft bearing, points/condensor,and lots of little things just to get it to run. And I dont have alot of money tied up in it. Remember that these are old machines and dont have the stuff that the new ones got..Good luck, you will get it going, just takes some time and patience..
 
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