40xt blowing interlock fuse

[ben@g2g]

Our 40xt keeps blowing the interlock fuse. When this blows the machine won't start, just crank over. Can you give me an idea of where to look for wires that may be pinched? Any direction would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Tazza]

Could it be a bad solenoid? I don;t know what it uses for a park brake or fuel shut off solenoid. I know in Bobcats these can cause problems as they burn up and short out blowing fuses.

 

[goose]

Your interlock fuse is blowing because one of the solenoids in the control valve is shorted out. Usually the loader lift but can be the bucket solenoid. It would be wise to replace both of them if they are the old style solenoids. Usually you can put a 20 amp fuse in the interlock and finish frying the solenoid and the machine will keep running and then you will find out one of the levers are locked and that will tell you which solenoid is bad.

 

[ben@g2g]

Your interlock fuse is blowing because one of the solenoids in the control valve is shorted out. Usually the loader lift but can be the bucket solenoid. It would be wise to replace both of them if they are the old style solenoids. Usually you can put a 20 amp fuse in the interlock and finish frying the solenoid and the machine will keep running and then you will find out one of the levers are locked and that will tell you which solenoid is bad.

Thanks guys. I finally got onsite last night, and played around with the wires, and replaced the fuse a few times, and finally got it to move for about 5 minutes so I could get it onto level ground with the bucket down. Blew the 20 amp, so I went with a 30 cause that's all I had left. That got extremely hot, but then the lift arm quit working, and cooled back down. The rest of the machine was good, so I got it on the trailer, and back to the garage. So thanks to goose I'm assuming it's a bad lift arm solenoid. Can you give me any guidence on replacing it? It's much harder to find parts diagrams/wiring diagrams online for these machines, than for cars. Do I need to manually pop the hoses, and lift the bucket so I can tilt the cab, or is there an access panel to get to the solenoid? What are the differences between the old and new style solenoids? I think this is a 2001 or 02 machine. Thanks for all your advice.

 

[goose]

Thanks guys. I finally got onsite last night, and played around with the wires, and replaced the fuse a few times, and finally got it to move for about 5 minutes so I could get it onto level ground with the bucket down. Blew the 20 amp, so I went with a 30 cause that's all I had left. That got extremely hot, but then the lift arm quit working, and cooled back down. The rest of the machine was good, so I got it on the trailer, and back to the garage. So thanks to goose I'm assuming it's a bad lift arm solenoid. Can you give me any guidence on replacing it? It's much harder to find parts diagrams/wiring diagrams online for these machines, than for cars. Do I need to manually pop the hoses, and lift the bucket so I can tilt the cab, or is there an access panel to get to the solenoid? What are the differences between the old and new style solenoids? I think this is a 2001 or 02 machine. Thanks for all your advice.

The part # for the solenoid is 87429888 but it should sub to a newer number. You will need to have the loader up and the cab tilted to get to the solenoid. There is an overright lever/knob that you can pull on the right side below the control lever that will unlock the loader spool and let you get the loader up. The solenoid screws in the top of the valve housing inline with the lift spool. it will be the one with a stud for the overide linkage to hook to. The new solenoids have the wires molded into the to make them watertight instead of a connector or a silicone type seal at the wires.

 

[ben@g2g]

The part # for the solenoid is 87429888 but it should sub to a newer number. You will need to have the loader up and the cab tilted to get to the solenoid. There is an overright lever/knob that you can pull on the right side below the control lever that will unlock the loader spool and let you get the loader up. The solenoid screws in the top of the valve housing inline with the lift spool. it will be the one with a stud for the overide linkage to hook to. The new solenoids have the wires molded into the to make them watertight instead of a connector or a silicone type seal at the wires.

Thanks again goose! I actually just got this replaced over the weekend, and didn't have time to post my experience. To start off, I really wish I knew about the override. I ended up removing the hydraulic lines from the lift arms. It wasn't too bad, just a little extra time, and a little messy. Next time I'll be more prepared. No only if they had an override so it would freewheel, and could be towed/pushed. I can't remember the exact part number but it looked identical to the one I replaced. It had a bout 2" of wire molded in before the plug. The other 3 solenoids that I could see for the steering, and bucket tilt, were slightly different with the plug directly on top of the solenoid. These also did not have the mechanical passthrough like the lift arm one I replaced. Thanks for the info. I'm sure I'll be needing more soon. And hopefully I'll be able to help out here as well, as I get more familiar with this machine.

 

[goose]

Thanks again goose! I actually just got this replaced over the weekend, and didn't have time to post my experience. To start off, I really wish I knew about the override. I ended up removing the hydraulic lines from the lift arms. It wasn't too bad, just a little extra time, and a little messy. Next time I'll be more prepared. No only if they had an override so it would freewheel, and could be towed/pushed. I can't remember the exact part number but it looked identical to the one I replaced. It had a bout 2" of wire molded in before the plug. The other 3 solenoids that I could see for the steering, and bucket tilt, were slightly different with the plug directly on top of the solenoid. These also did not have the mechanical passthrough like the lift arm one I replaced. Thanks for the info. I'm sure I'll be needing more soon. And hopefully I'll be able to help out here as well, as I get more familiar with this machine.

Your machine does have tow valves. On the side of the travel pumps one on each side there will be and plug, some are round but most are hex head with a hole drilled across the head. Turn both of these out about 3 turns and then with the lapbar down to release the brakes you can tow the machine for a short distance.

 

[ben@g2g]

Your machine does have tow valves. On the side of the travel pumps one on each side there will be and plug, some are round but most are hex head with a hole drilled across the head. Turn both of these out about 3 turns and then with the lapbar down to release the brakes you can tow the machine for a short distance.

Wow, that is great to know as well. At least we can get it on a trailer that way to get it back to the garage if something happens. I was reading threw the operator manual, and it said it must not be towed, and would need to be lifted onto a trailer if the machine is disabled. I thought that was a little much. I know our hydro mowers have those valves so the mowers can be moved when not running, I thought the machine should as well.