2010 262c wont turn over

[drftndakota]

Hey, Long time lurker reading up on skid steers etc. Appreciate the help, I've gotten myself in a bit of a bind. Have a 2010 262c that has been great for a few years around 2200 hours. It has recently developed a electrical problem I've been attempting to diagnose. Basically it started out one day it snowed 8", hopped in to go push some snow and it was completely dead no lights no nothing. After buying a new battery and having the same problem I started the diagnosing "with minimal success". So i just started cleaning up all the major positive wires/grounds underneath the cab/engine bay of any corrosion. After cleaning up all the large connections I've got a control panel back. However with just the key in the on position it's dropping the brand new battery down to 8v's from ~12.8v which isn't enough to run the horn let alone the starter. If i hit the horn while in this condition the control panel will go completely blank. Let go it comes back. With the key in the off position the horn is loud and proud. It does the same thing with all the accessories So I started digging deeper into some of the smaller connections on the fuse panel. I've found a lot more corrosion there but had zero positive change after cleaning things up. In that process one of the studs on the back of the fuse panel where there is what i think is multiple ground connections attached to the lower left corner of the fuse panel. Does anyone know of a good way to replace that stud? Is that a ground buss for the relays? Do i need the whole panel? Also any ideas on why we'd be dropping that kind of voltage with the key only in the on position? It has been an extremely cold and frustrating process thus far, so any helpful hints are going to be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

[flyerdan]

Not familiar with the Cat machines, but it does sound like a corrosion issue. It could very well be a ground, the stud probably won't come out, but cleaning the ring terminals that go on it and if you can get it with a wire wheel on a Dremel or such and get some bare metal on the framework that should work.
Was the battery actually dead, or do you not know for sure? Just wondering if there might be some parasite drain going on; with everything shut off there shouldn't be any spark when you connect the negative cable to the battery, if you get any that means something is pulling current.
If there is a current draw, you can put a DMM set to amps between the neg cable and neg battery post, it will tell you the current draw and you can pull fuses until it goes away; that will be your culprit.
If you need to start it to move to a better location (closer to tools, warmer, etc), you should be able to jump from the battery cable on the starter to the pole on the solenoid that the switch goes to. You might have to jump the hold coil on the fuel solenoid, or wire it back if it's external. No clue if any of the interlocks will let you move it, hopefully someone familiar with this model will chime in.

 

[knogen]

First thing to do is load test battery Will probably have to replace fuse box If battery is good check ground at back of cab to frame Can you jump starter and make it crank? Inspect battery cables from battery to starter The positive can give problems runs in a bad spot

 

[kroog]

First thing to do is load test battery Will probably have to replace fuse box If battery is good check ground at back of cab to frame Can you jump starter and make it crank? Inspect battery cables from battery to starter The positive can give problems runs in a bad spot

I agree. Check voltage to main fuse panel and check ground strap to frame.