1970's FORD 340 rebuild

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Im starting a thread to document rebuilding my FORD 340 skid steer. I bought the machine for $3K delivered non running and unseen. I know I was rolling the dice but the machine looked complete from the posted pics and the guy said it ran before it sat for 2.5 years. So I quickly figured out that it had a FORD V4 liquid cooled engine, I thought that was kinda of cool. Here we go...

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

I bought it August 31 2022. I immediately tried to get the engine to turn over by hand and it wouldn't budge. Went and bought a battery but soon discovered that the wiring was a kinda cobbled but what should I expect from a machine that is 50 years old? Anyway took a screw driver and jumped the starter solenoid and still wouldnt turn over.

Went on the internet for several nights and researched the machine. I was starting to worry about getting parts to fix it when I stumbled on a thread in a different forum for a guy that was offering advice to someone with the same machine. The thread was like 10 years old but he had posted his email so I emailed him and he responded right away. His name is John Morris and runs a shop that specializes in older skid steers like the Ford and the Mustang machines. Super friendly guy and was happy to answer all of my questions. His email is [email protected] phone number 605-290-1582 he also has several youtube videos about the FORD V4 engine

Ford V4 Gasoline Engine Parts For Sale

Rare and hard-to-find parts for sale for your Ford V4 1.5L and 1.7L motors typically made from 1968 to 1974.

fordv4parts.myshopify.com

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

So after talking with John, he said he sells everything to totally rebuild the engine and that the machine is actually not that hard to work on. He said that the FORD V4 1.7 liter engine was rated at 40hp but it is actually much higher, like 90-100 hp but it is governed down so stuff doesnt break?

So I decided to pull the motor and rebuild it. Here it is out of the machine and in the garage.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Got the heads off and found out that moisture got into cylinder #4 and rusted it up! So I poured tranny fluid into the cylinder and let it soak for a couple days, but the rust was so bad I couldn't get it to break loose by hand so I got a 2x4 block and after several wacks got it to move.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Got everything torn down and I took the block, crank and heads to NAPA. I was hoping that they could just hone the cylinders and micro polish the crank, but of course the rust was too bad on the one cylinder so .030 over and the crank would have to be turned .010/.010. Got a call the from napa the next day and he said he went .020 first then .040 and the pitting was still there. I started to freak out because I just ordered the .030 over pistons and rings from John Morris at fordv4parts.com but John said no problem send them back and he was sending me the .060 over pistons that day, great customer service!

While I was waiting for the machine work to be done, I cleaned and painted everything that I could.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Another thing I did while waiting for the machine work was to redo the brakes. I took the access cover off and found that master cylinder was gone? Took the brakes apart and cold tell right away that the wheel cylinders were toast, there was plenty of pad left on the shoes but they were soaked in grease because someone must of pumped a ton of grease through the wheel bearing!

Spent the next couple of nights scouring the internet for part numbers but could not find anything because its so old. So I decided to start looking at old ford brake diagrams on Summit and found a match, $29 for the shoe set and $13 each for the wheel cylinders. All the springs were still good but I needed one of the adjustable spreader thing at the bottom $5 at Autozone.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Finding the master cylinder was a pain! The mounting bolt center to center distance was 3.125" and all the master cylinders I found had a 3.5" bolt pattern, so I just ob longed the one hole and was able to mount it right up. The master cylinder was $54 off Amazon.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Got a little farter on the brakes, but ran into a few issues. First I had to source a 1/2-20 banjo bolt. None of the local big parts stores had one so I had to purchase online. Got it all put together and started by bench bleeding the master cylinder, then hooked up the brake lines and started to bleed them but notices that fluid was leaking out around one of the crush washers, so I tightened a little tighter, did that 2 more time to where I was afraid I might break the bolt. Took it apart and determined that the old banjo fitting had to large of an opening for the banjo bolt and crush washers to seal? Went back and ordered a new banjo fitting, should see it in a day or so. Also had to source a return spring for the brake pedal arm from ACE hardware too.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

So got the new banjo fitting today, got it installed and bled the system. Want to give a shout out to Nick at BRAKE HOSES UNLIMITED for supplying the banjo bolt, banjo fitting, and crush washers.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Here is my block back from the machine shop. I painted it FORD blue and made a custom engine mount to fit my engine stand. Also started assembling the crank into the block.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

So I got mains and rod bearing and caps installed and torqued down, everything spins freely. The installation of the rings onto the pistons and the pistons into the block was very easy using the toolset I bought off Amazon for $13, definitely worth it!

Next I installed the balance shaft and camshaft, the balance shaft went in no problem, however, when I try to install the camshaft I found out that the machine shop mistakenly installed the middle bushing to the front and the front one in the middle. So I had to order another set of camshaft bushings from John Morris at fordv4parts.com about a week later had the camshaft installed correctly.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Got the oil pump installed. The timing gears went on pretty easy, just have to make sure the dots line up. Cant believe that the big gear is made of nylon plastic?? Got the front cover on and the balance shaft pully installed.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

I can't thank John Morris at fordv4parts.com enough for the all the help and tips/tricks he has given me through this build. Anytime I call he answers and is happy to help me!

John said to get a several M6 x 30 bolts and cut the heads off and put them in every other hole in the block to help guide the oil pan gasket on. Next I applied a bead of rtv gasket material to the side of the cork oil pan gasket and then installed it onto the block, very easy and not so messy.

Next I slid the oil pan over the M6 studs and installed every other M6 bolt, once those were in I backed out the studs and put in the bolts.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Got the new fuel pump installed. Reinstalled the old oil pressure sensor, hope it still works?

Got the heads installed and torqued down. installed the valve assemblies. Now I have to adjust the valve lash.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

So I have been busy as you will see in the next few posts. Installed the intake manifold gasket to the block and let it set for a day then installed the intake. Also sealed the valve cover gaskets to the valve covers, then installed the valve covers to the heads.

Next I started adding the water pump and starter.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

got the flywheel and thrust plate and bell housing installed today.

Installed the distributer and set the timing manually, just have to throw a timing light on it once its fired up.

I got a new alternator from NAPA for $70 (ac delco remanufactured) its a one wire so I wont be using the cdi box. Bolted right up except I had to make a 1.2" spacer to go between the bottom mount and bracket.

Also installed the fan housing assembly and finally the belt.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

installed new exhaust studs, they came really long and i had to trim about 1" off them.

Finally got the engine off the stand, now just have to get it back into the skid steer.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Here was a little side projuect. I noticed that the chain housing cover seals were all but gone and there was probably a 1/2 " of water in each housing. So I pulled the plugs and drained them and will have to clean the chains and then add a gallon of clean oil or 1" deep in each housing to keep the chains nice and lubed. I got the 1/8" cork gasket material from NAPA for like $12 and was enough to make two complete gaskets.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Another side project was installing good gas tanks. The skid steer only had the right side one when I bought it and it was rusted out on the top. I was able to get two good used ones from John Morris at fordv4parts.com for an awesome deal.

I had to dig a 12" deep hole under each tank then use my floor jack to lift the rear end high enough for the old tank to slide out and then install both the good ones.

 

[cjcocn]

Just found this thread.

Excellent work and a great project.

Thanks for posting this up!