1835B Left Drive Motor Removal

[android53]

Hello all! New to this site and also to the ownership of an 1835B with "issues". I am trying to remove the left drive motor per a Case service manual I purchased. Everything disconnected as instructed up to "Loosen and remove the nuts and lock washers on the Ferry head bolts that hold the motor". How do you get to the nut and lock washers inside the chain case? Looks to me like you have to need to remove the axle housings to remove the chains so the motor drive sprocket can be removed through the outboard bearing cap hole. Is this correct or am I missing something? Any info steering me in the right direction will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Hotrod1830]

Sorry Im late to the party. Your machine should have a "chain case" cover on top of the chain case. Around a half dozen bolts or so if I remember correctly. Remove the bolts, raise the lift arm, and the cover will slide out the front. Should have full access to the chains and motors after that.

 

[android53]

Sorry Im late to the party. Your machine should have a "chain case" cover on top of the chain case. Around a half dozen bolts or so if I remember correctly. Remove the bolts, raise the lift arm, and the cover will slide out the front. Should have full access to the chains and motors after that.

First of all have a Happy New Year! Thanks for the reply. My machine has two smaller chain covers held on the top of the chain case by a single wing nut. I can remove them but only have access to the wheel axle drive sprocket and chain. Just doesn't seem to be any way to get to the drive motor nuts without removing the chains. The book says the chains are "endless" but I am going to look for a master link this weekend. If they are truly endless then it looks like the only way to remove them is to remove the wheel axle housings and sprockets. Thanks again for the reply.

 

[Hotrod1830]

First of all have a Happy New Year! Thanks for the reply. My machine has two smaller chain covers held on the top of the chain case by a single wing nut. I can remove them but only have access to the wheel axle drive sprocket and chain. Just doesn't seem to be any way to get to the drive motor nuts without removing the chains. The book says the chains are "endless" but I am going to look for a master link this weekend. If they are truly endless then it looks like the only way to remove them is to remove the wheel axle housings and sprockets. Thanks again for the reply.

They indeed do not have a master link. The chain is just standard roller chain. If you have a farm center local that stocks chain you can get and install a master link. The wheel bearing housings are adjustable(loosen bolts and move to adjust chains) You Dont really need to install a master link unless you need to remove a link to tighten up the chain, but as I found out, it sure makes life easier.

 

[Gearclash]

They indeed do not have a master link. The chain is just standard roller chain. If you have a farm center local that stocks chain you can get and install a master link. The wheel bearing housings are adjustable(loosen bolts and move to adjust chains) You Dont really need to install a master link unless you need to remove a link to tighten up the chain, but as I found out, it sure makes life easier.

Easiest way I have found to to access the nuts and lock washers for the drive motors is through the front access cover. If you are removing the motor, best to drain the chain case and loosen both axle housings. I use an A.I. sleeve to keep my arm clean when reaching in the chain case. It is not fun but it works. Yes, OEM chains are endless. I have used replacement chains with master links with out trouble, but DO NOT use cheap chain. It will fail. Do not take a link out if the axle housings are at the end of the adjustment travel, replace the chains. If you're that far into it, might consider replacing the wheel bearings if they are at all questionable. They are not lubricated by the chain case oil. Also, if you are pulling the motors because of output shaft seal leakage, the shaft will likely have to be replaced. They get grooved by the seals. Any more questions, ask! I've been in these things a few times. One has over 13,000 hours on.

 

[android53]

Easiest way I have found to to access the nuts and lock washers for the drive motors is through the front access cover. If you are removing the motor, best to drain the chain case and loosen both axle housings. I use an A.I. sleeve to keep my arm clean when reaching in the chain case. It is not fun but it works. Yes, OEM chains are endless. I have used replacement chains with master links with out trouble, but DO NOT use cheap chain. It will fail. Do not take a link out if the axle housings are at the end of the adjustment travel, replace the chains. If you're that far into it, might consider replacing the wheel bearings if they are at all questionable. They are not lubricated by the chain case oil. Also, if you are pulling the motors because of output shaft seal leakage, the shaft will likely have to be replaced. They get grooved by the seals. Any more questions, ask! I've been in these things a few times. One has over 13,000 hours on.

Thanks Gearclash Your saying that by loosening the wheel housings I should be able to reach in to access the nuts with the chains installed or do I have to remove the chains to access? Do I have to cut the chain and install a master link later? Thanks for your help.

 

[Gearclash]

Thanks Gearclash Your saying that by loosening the wheel housings I should be able to reach in to access the nuts with the chains installed or do I have to remove the chains to access? Do I have to cut the chain and install a master link later? Thanks for your help.

You can get a wrench on the nuts with out removing the chains I think. Chains out of the way would be much easier. If you have endless chains and they have service life left I would not cut them. I would recommend removing the outboard bearing housing for the motor shaft (the square block with 4 nuts holding it approximately between front and back wheels). Check the bearing for wear. They don't like excessive moisture. With the axle housings loose and retracted and the bearing housing off I think the chains can be hopped off the sprockets, and then the drive sprocket will come off the motor shaft (splined). Memory is getting foggy on details, but I think it might be possible to get on the motor bolt nuts through the outboard bearing hole. One thing about the motor bolts, make sure they are TIGHT when you reinstall the motor. If they are not they will work themselves loose.

 

[android53]

You can get a wrench on the nuts with out removing the chains I think. Chains out of the way would be much easier. If you have endless chains and they have service life left I would not cut them. I would recommend removing the outboard bearing housing for the motor shaft (the square block with 4 nuts holding it approximately between front and back wheels). Check the bearing for wear. They don't like excessive moisture. With the axle housings loose and retracted and the bearing housing off I think the chains can be hopped off the sprockets, and then the drive sprocket will come off the motor shaft (splined). Memory is getting foggy on details, but I think it might be possible to get on the motor bolt nuts through the outboard bearing hole. One thing about the motor bolts, make sure they are TIGHT when you reinstall the motor. If they are not they will work themselves loose.

I ended up removing the front axle hub and sprocket to get the chain out of my way. It was then easy to access the nuts for motor removal. Unfortunately my drive motor was shot and obsolete with no parts available. New replacement drive motor on order (ouch). Thanks for all your help.