I just replaced my cylinder on my T190 after an overheating issues that caused it to crack and blow the head gasket. Everything went relatively smoothly with the repair but now that it is back together it won't start. I cracked the lines at the fuel injectors and have fuel spurting out of them while cranking. It feels like it wants to start but won't. There is dark grey smoke coming from the exhaust while I crank it. What am I missing? Were there any adjustments that needed to be made during the process that i missed? I greatly appreciate any and all thoughts.
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I just double checked the valve clearance and it seems to be alright. Glow plugs are connected and i checked resistance and they all seem to be good. It was running fine up until the cylinder cracked.You did re-adjust the valve clearance when you replaced the head? That is the only thing you really need to do. That and the glow plugs connected?
I assume it ran before the head swap?
Get a helper to crank the engine and give it a squirt of WD40 into the air cleaner, see if you can get it to start.I just double checked the valve clearance and it seems to be alright. Glow plugs are connected and i checked resistance and they all seem to be good. It was running fine up until the cylinder cracked.
That is very odd that it won't run after a head swap..... The only other step is to check the compression, if it's good, it has to be injectors/pump. You did mention you are getting fuel, but i wonder if something happened and it's either not getting enough pressure to open the injectors or the injectors are stuck. All seem far fetched, but you never know....
I think I am going to pull the injectors tonight and rotate the fuel lines out and just let them spray to see what they are doing. I agree it doesn't make sense at all. I will keep you posted.Get a helper to crank the engine and give it a squirt of WD40 into the air cleaner, see if you can get it to start.
That is very odd that it won't run after a head swap..... The only other step is to check the compression, if it's good, it has to be injectors/pump. You did mention you are getting fuel, but i wonder if something happened and it's either not getting enough pressure to open the injectors or the injectors are stuck. All seem far fetched, but you never know....
I just tore back into this thing. I pulled the intake manifold off and the two middle cylinders were "wet". Thoughts?I think I am going to pull the injectors tonight and rotate the fuel lines out and just let them spray to see what they are doing. I agree it doesn't make sense at all. I will keep you posted.
I'd suspect valve clearance is not big enough, allowing the inle valves to stay open a little bit and letting the air/fuel mixture out during the compression cycle.I just tore back into this thing. I pulled the intake manifold off and the two middle cylinders were "wet". Thoughts?
Was the head new/reconditioned before you put it on?
Yes the head was new and ready to go. I had the injectors tested yesterday and all tested out fine. He asked me about the pump and it looks like I unknowingly may have thrown that out of whack. He is rebuilding that for me and bringing it back to spec. I am hoping that will do the trick??I'd suspect valve clearance is not big enough, allowing the inle valves to stay open a little bit and letting the air/fuel mixture out during the compression cycle.
Was the head new/reconditioned before you put it on?
What do you think you did to the pump to put it out of whack? You need to remove the delivery nozzles to do that..... Not just removing tube lines to get the head off.Yes the head was new and ready to go. I had the injectors tested yesterday and all tested out fine. He asked me about the pump and it looks like I unknowingly may have thrown that out of whack. He is rebuilding that for me and bringing it back to spec. I am hoping that will do the trick??
A good test is to spin it over and spray WD40 into the air cleaner, it it pops, you have compression, possibly not enough but some.
I sure hope it's that simple
The delivery nozzles were loose when the tube lines came off. Any ways, the pump has been rebuilt and and tested so that is now good. But still no luck! I guess my next step would be to get a compression tester and see what the deal is there. Would the overheat have caused the compression to disappear?What do you think you did to the pump to put it out of whack? You need to remove the delivery nozzles to do that..... Not just removing tube lines to get the head off.
A good test is to spin it over and spray WD40 into the air cleaner, it it pops, you have compression, possibly not enough but some.
I sure hope it's that simple
I guess it is possible, but i'd doubt it would do all cylinders so it didn't even fire. You really need to check the compression, i'd bet it is low causing the issue, but i'm at a loss as to why.The delivery nozzles were loose when the tube lines came off. Any ways, the pump has been rebuilt and and tested so that is now good. But still no luck! I guess my next step would be to get a compression tester and see what the deal is there. Would the overheat have caused the compression to disappear?
Are you sure you adjusted the valve clearance correctly? i have managed to adjust mine 180 degrees out once before.
I am trying to track down a compression gauge to borrow before I have to go buy one. I think I am doing the valves right?? I rotate the engine until one cylinder has slight pressure on its two valves. I then adjust the sister cylinder per the book. If I am wrong by all means please let me know.I guess it is possible, but i'd doubt it would do all cylinders so it didn't even fire. You really need to check the compression, i'd bet it is low causing the issue, but i'm at a loss as to why.
Are you sure you adjusted the valve clearance correctly? i have managed to adjust mine 180 degrees out once before.
Hotrod1830
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- Sep 14, 2010
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I always just do them a cylinder at a time on the compression stroke,TDC. Makes it easier, less chance of missing a valve, and you know it's right.I am trying to track down a compression gauge to borrow before I have to go buy one. I think I am doing the valves right?? I rotate the engine until one cylinder has slight pressure on its two valves. I then adjust the sister cylinder per the book. If I am wrong by all means please let me know.
If an engine get's hot enough, it can get the rings hot enough to loose tension. They usually start, but burn oil faster than fuel. I would suggest a compression test.
I too find TDC and work from that.I always just do them a cylinder at a time on the compression stroke,TDC. Makes it easier, less chance of missing a valve, and you know it's right.
If an engine get's hot enough, it can get the rings hot enough to loose tension. They usually start, but burn oil faster than fuel. I would suggest a compression test.
If you can't easily work that out, you can use the fuel injector to work out what cylinder is about to fire. Make sure the fuel shut solenoid is engaged so fuel will flow, rotate the engine till you see a small amount of fuel bubble up, about 10 or so gegrees more and you are at TDC, rotate it 180 degrees and another will be at TDC.
Hopefully that makes sense. SOme have the markings on the front pulley with a FI mark for fuel injection, and a TC for top dead centre which makes it easier.
That does make sense and I am 99% sure I have the valves correct. I ordered a compression tester last night after failing to find one to borrow. I should have some more information tomorrow. Fingers crossed!I too find TDC and work from that.
If you can't easily work that out, you can use the fuel injector to work out what cylinder is about to fire. Make sure the fuel shut solenoid is engaged so fuel will flow, rotate the engine till you see a small amount of fuel bubble up, about 10 or so gegrees more and you are at TDC, rotate it 180 degrees and another will be at TDC.
Hopefully that makes sense. SOme have the markings on the front pulley with a FI mark for fuel injection, and a TC for top dead centre which makes it easier.
Hopefully the tester will give you answers, i just don't know what else it cold be.That does make sense and I am 99% sure I have the valves correct. I ordered a compression tester last night after failing to find one to borrow. I should have some more information tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
Ok so i just did the compression test. Numbers 1 and 4 cylinder have perfect numbers. 2 and 3 are VERY low (less than 150). Those are the cylinder where the cracks were on the old head. So I am assuming i have major problems now. Do I need an engine rebuild? Anything I can do to "fix" the issue?Hopefully the tester will give you answers, i just don't know what else it cold be.
Just to add to this... I poured some oil into the weak cylinder and the compression rose 30-50psi so I am thinking that confirms that the rings are shot. Looks like I am going to be pulling the engine. Is it worth having it rebuilt or just get a reman block?Ok so i just did the compression test. Numbers 1 and 4 cylinder have perfect numbers. 2 and 3 are VERY low (less than 150). Those are the cylinder where the cracks were on the old head. So I am assuming i have major problems now. Do I need an engine rebuild? Anything I can do to "fix" the issue?
I wonder if you bent the rods when coolant got in the cylinders....Just to add to this... I poured some oil into the weak cylinder and the compression rose 30-50psi so I am thinking that confirms that the rings are shot. Looks like I am going to be pulling the engine. Is it worth having it rebuilt or just get a reman block?
I'd pull the engine, dismantle it and go from there. You already bought a new head, hopefully the bottom end is still all good and neds new pistons/rings and maybe rods.
Do the other 2 cylinders have good compression still?
