Bad Hydraulic Leak in 2003 John Deere 250 Series II Skidsteer

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N4HMRHAM

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Joined
Jun 3, 2012
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Hello - I have a 2003 John Deere 250 Series II that I bought used in mid-2007; it had 850 hrs on it when I got it and only has 1010 hrs on it now - hadn't exactly been overworked since I got it. Replaced the battery in June 2013 and it was parked shortly thereafter for almost two years. When it was parked, I filled the fuel tank, greased it good and checked the anti-freeze.
Cranked it up the other evening (getting dark). Battery was still good and the motor fired up immediately. Let the motor warm up a bit, then moved the unit back/forth a couple of times - no problem. Moved the boom and bucket a couple of times - bucket squeaked a bit at full tilt but not too bad. Then I drove it around a circle (est 100 yds) back to the parking spot - seemed ok while moving. Was trying to back it into the park spot and noticed that the levers were getting hard to move.
Managed to get it almost back where it was parked and then nothing moved - no boom or bucket action, no unit movement. What the Heck? It had been raining so the grass, etc was wet and shiney. Got out, checked the hydraulic tank level - slam Ass empty! Wiped the stick, came out bone dry - 4-6 gal of fluid gone! Well, @#$%! Dark by then, so didn't do anything more. Note that this steer has an enclosed cab, so you can't raise the ROPS with the boom down. Went back out yesterday, poured 2 gal of Plus 50 in the reservoir. Started the motor, moved the unit out so I could drop the bucket, and backed it up so I could get access to the front.
While raising the boom to engage the boom locks, the boom was shuddering on the way up but got it the locks. Shut the motor down. Got out, looked under the unit and saw a stream of fluid coming down from the area in line with the right rear tire. Raised the ROPS and saw that the pumps, hoses and the pan under the pumps had a coating of oil on them. Looking from the front the right hand side of the pan area had a bit more oil there than the left side but certainly not much of a puddle. I had never seen any oil on that area before, although it has been some years since I had the ROPS up. Out of time then, so didn't do anything else. One fact to get on the table now ... I can do some work on cars and trucks but when it comes to this type of equipment, I am green as grass other than some abilities on electrical issues, etc. So I need to ask some basic questions ...
1. It is my understanding that the pan area below the pumps is pretty much a sealed bottom chamber. I have seen a plug in the bottom of that area which to me would seem to be a drain plug but never tried to remove it. I had previously asked a Tech about that, and he said didn't know about it. I found that odd. Makes sense tho since that would allow an easy way to clean out dirt, etc from that area for maintenance. So, is that really just a drain plug, and not something holding up the pump assembly?
2. Given that there was limited oil in the pan area, relatively speaking, then it would seem that the major leak would be to the rear of that area above the rear pan cover. I haven't had time to remove the cover yet & inspect the area. That is the next step. What are the most likely leak points there other than the oil cooler connections?
3. As soon as the motor is shut down, is there any residual pressure in the hydraulic system that takes a while to dissipate? Given the stream of oil I saw coming down after the motor was shut off, I need to know if the source of the leak may still be releasing fluid under pressure.
4. When the ROPS is raised, obviously both levers fall forward. I have never needed to or tried to start the motor with the ROPS raised. If the motor was started with the ROPS up, and the levers forward, is there ANY chance that the steer could lurch forward? I wouldn't think so due to the brake switch still being off (brake should be engaged), and nobody sitting in the seat - but I still need to ask this question!
5. The repair manual cautions against running it without fluid - Duh - but I sure didn't do it intentionally. I think this is unit has a Sauer-Danfoss system in it, based on the pictures in the repair CD. It didn't move after the fluid ran out and I shut the motor down promptly. At least it did move more-or-less normally after adding the two gals of Plus 50 to it so I could drop the bucket and raise the boom. Given that it ran out of fluid, what is the probability of residual damage to the pumps, motors and/or valve assemblies?
6. Speaking of brakes, the instrument panel park brake led going out became intermittent not too long after I got the machine, and now stays on all the time even tho the brakes do release. I haven't been able to find the adjustment in the repair manual for this. Doesn't really bother me - as long as the brakes are fully retracting - but it obviously should go off. Anybody know how to do this? I will appreciate any insight and advice on this problem. Thanks Fred
 
If your loosing that much oil it is probably a drive motor hose or a cooler hose. The drain plugs you see are for the chaincases on either side off the machine.
 
If your loosing that much oil it is probably a drive motor hose or a cooler hose. The drain plugs you see are for the chaincases on either side off the machine.
Hey BobcatDan - Thx for the response. I am not at all happy with the way this website treats the original text that is posted. If anybody wants to see how it was intended to appear, go to the website 'www.greentractortalk.com' , then look for the 'Construction Equipment' link. That post is titled 'Bad Hydraulic Leak in 2003 250A Series 2 Skidsteer'. (I fixed the typos when I posted on this forum.) I was disturbed enough that I sent a message asking WHAT I did wrong to have it come out that way, but I know the answer is - they just throw away the @#$% CR's and jam everything together. Thank them very little. Maybe somebody at a higher level will read this and check it out - and see the difference for themselves. But, then, maybe not. Who knows. Anyway, the (one) plug I was speaking of is in the dead center of the body underneath and directly under the pump area. It has a square receptacle for the mating socket to go into. I have already changed the chaincase oil, and was going to start the 1,000 hour service when whatever dumped all the Dang hydraulic oil for me. Not my plan! Even on this reply they did the same Dang thing - preview shows it all jammed together. Poor design! Fred
 
Hey BobcatDan - Thx for the response. I am not at all happy with the way this website treats the original text that is posted. If anybody wants to see how it was intended to appear, go to the website 'www.greentractortalk.com' , then look for the 'Construction Equipment' link. That post is titled 'Bad Hydraulic Leak in 2003 250A Series 2 Skidsteer'. (I fixed the typos when I posted on this forum.) I was disturbed enough that I sent a message asking WHAT I did wrong to have it come out that way, but I know the answer is - they just throw away the @#$% CR's and jam everything together. Thank them very little. Maybe somebody at a higher level will read this and check it out - and see the difference for themselves. But, then, maybe not. Who knows. Anyway, the (one) plug I was speaking of is in the dead center of the body underneath and directly under the pump area. It has a square receptacle for the mating socket to go into. I have already changed the chaincase oil, and was going to start the 1,000 hour service when whatever dumped all the Dang hydraulic oil for me. Not my plan! Even on this reply they did the same Dang thing - preview shows it all jammed together. Poor design! Fred
Go into your profile and click the box that says use html editor or something along those lines, your spaces will work then.
 
Go into your profile and click the box that says use html editor or something along those lines, your spaces will work then.
As for your problem, you will need to lift the cab and look around for the hose that is leaking. It could be a few things, hose, cooler, rusted out metal tube line.
 
As for your problem, you will need to lift the cab and look around for the hose that is leaking. It could be a few things, hose, cooler, rusted out metal tube line.
Tazza - Went to the Profile page, enabled the HTML option and saved the new profile. Went back to post a reply to you, and promptly discovered I could not enter any data in the message field. I can add data to the title field with no problem - but the message box was off limits. Undid that profle change so I could type this msg. I am using Chrome; does that have anythng to do with this problem?
 
Tazza - Went to the Profile page, enabled the HTML option and saved the new profile. Went back to post a reply to you, and promptly discovered I could not enter any data in the message field. I can add data to the title field with no problem - but the message box was off limits. Undid that profle change so I could type this msg. I am using Chrome; does that have anythng to do with this problem?
You need to use internet explorer browser, I know it can be a pain. But be nice to this site there is a lot of knowledge here.
 
You need to use internet explorer browser, I know it can be a pain. But be nice to this site there is a lot of knowledge here.
Chrome will be the issue, I know others have managed to get it to work with other browzers, i'm just not sure how.
IE is really the only one the forum software likes... I know it's far from the first choice, i only use it for the forum, everything else i use forefox on.
 
Chrome will be the issue, I know others have managed to get it to work with other browzers, i'm just not sure how.
IE is really the only one the forum software likes... I know it's far from the first choice, i only use it for the forum, everything else i use forefox on.
Our 250 used to go through drive motor hoses regularly. Ours originally had little screen filters in the case drain lines that would plug and cause the case drain line for the drive motor to blow off. As for cleaning out under the cab you have to take the covers off around the seat jack the back up and run it out the front.
 
The shuddering while the boom was moving was most likely due to the previous low level of oil. You probably pulled some air. I'd get it full of hydraulic oil and raise the cab to inspect while running. If you're worried about the machine lunging you can raise it up, put it on jack stands and then check it. I think you'll have to put pressure on the seat and fasten the seat belt to get it to go. I use a long 4x4 that I wedge between the roof and seat putting downward pressure on the seat switch. Once you've got it started look for leaks and shut off occasionally to top off if you're having a hard time seeing where the leak is. As long as your pump isn't making any funny noises you should be okay. With that much oil loss the leak should be visible fairly quickly.
 
The shuddering while the boom was moving was most likely due to the previous low level of oil. You probably pulled some air. I'd get it full of hydraulic oil and raise the cab to inspect while running. If you're worried about the machine lunging you can raise it up, put it on jack stands and then check it. I think you'll have to put pressure on the seat and fasten the seat belt to get it to go. I use a long 4x4 that I wedge between the roof and seat putting downward pressure on the seat switch. Once you've got it started look for leaks and shut off occasionally to top off if you're having a hard time seeing where the leak is. As long as your pump isn't making any funny noises you should be okay. With that much oil loss the leak should be visible fairly quickly.
Something else. If you look under the machine there should be a large panel you can remove at the rear and I think there's one at the center or front you can take off to clean out the belly. It has been a long time since I had a Deere 260 so I'm not exactly certain on that.
 
Something else. If you look under the machine there should be a large panel you can remove at the rear and I think there's one at the center or front you can take off to clean out the belly. It has been a long time since I had a Deere 260 so I'm not exactly certain on that.
As far as forum complaints there is a link at the top where you can donate to the update for the forum. Any amount will help I'm sure and is offset by any advice you will get here on problems. If the john deere is vertical lift like the new Holland check behind the fenders where there are convoluted steel lines for the lift cylinders. Had one split on my new Holland and the oil cam out down below.
 
Tazza - A real delay on fixing this problem. On 09/18 I had a field tech look at the unit, and he found the problem immediately. Helps to know what you're doing. The metal line to the LH brake had rusted out. This was the one on the bottom so it was sitting in mud, etc. Apparently the hole was right in front of the drain hole so the majority of oil was squirting through that hole - which is what I saw. It was replaced with a rubber line so that shouldn't happen again. Finally got the unit where I could clean it up. Two issues now: 1) When removing the rear pan, the two front plates under the pedals and the center console, I had a number of U-nuts (spacer nuts?) wring off due to being rusted out. Had to ziz the bolt heads off. Does anybody know of a good source for these U nuts - for a reasonable price? 2) Had to replace the fan belt. The previous owner had put a NAPA belt on there which was not as wide as the JD belt; it was way down in the pulleys & worn out - no more adjustment left. Got a new JD belt (P/N R97939) and mounted it. I was disturbed by the length of that new belt as about 75% of the slot was gone before the Dang belt got tight! And the way the alternator top side brace is formed it blocks more than an inch of the end of the slot - the bolt head will contact the brace and you can't tighten the belt any more! If I run out of adjustment on this belt and it is still good, I'm going to reform the end of the Dang brace and put a spacer between the brace and the alternator ear. That will allow some clearance for the bolt head. Has anybody else run into this problem? Fred
 
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