1972 M610 Bobcat Repair

[dadsbobcat]

Need a little advice from the expert bobcat mechanics that are familiar with the M610. After dad passed away I ended up with his old 610. Unfortunately I found in need of some immediate repair. I am a novice mechanic at best and was wondering if this is a project that suits someone with more experience. The coupler between the hydraulic pump and distributor drive has given out. I need both metal pieces and the rubber section. I have oil running from the case the distributor and rotor are in as well. Is it safe to say with the coupling wore out it also took out a bearing and or seal in the rotor housing as well. If anyone can cue me in on how big of a project this is I would greatly appreciate it. Anyone have a repair diagram and parts list? Are parts readily available for this machine? It is a 1972 model with the Wisconsin engineVH4D. Thanks again and I do appreciate any input or advice you can give me.

 

[6brnorma]

OldMachinist may read this and post a diagram of the parts. This is a job that you can probably do. All of the parts are available (not cheap) and the job can be done without pulling the engine. Hard to say which went first…..the coupler or the seals, so, if they were related I'd guess you lost bearings in the distributor housing for the hydro pump shaft first. I've lost lots of couplers but never had one take the distributor drive and seals with it. I would recommend a repair manual as alignment, gaps and tolerances on the coupler are critical to the life of that particular part. Manual and sometimes couplers are available on E-bay.

 

[dadsbobcat]

OldMachinist may read this and post a diagram of the parts. This is a job that you can probably do. All of the parts are available (not cheap) and the job can be done without pulling the engine. Hard to say which went first…..the coupler or the seals, so, if they were related I'd guess you lost bearings in the distributor housing for the hydro pump shaft first. I've lost lots of couplers but never had one take the distributor drive and seals with it. I would recommend a repair manual as alignment, gaps and tolerances on the coupler are critical to the life of that particular part. Manual and sometimes couplers are available on E-bay.

Would I be correct to assume the distributer, rotor and rotor housing all have to be pulled to replace the bearings and seals?

 

[6brnorma]

Would I be correct to assume the distributer, rotor and rotor housing all have to be pulled to replace the bearings and seals?

The distributor would come out as a single unit…..then once you had the hydro pump out of the way you would remove the distributor housing/hydro output shaft housing and rebuild it on a bench. Pull the broken coupler halves then replace everything, but, tolerances are critical on the coupler.

 

[6brnorma]

The distributor would come out as a single unit…..then once you had the hydro pump out of the way you would remove the distributor housing/hydro output shaft housing and rebuild it on a bench. Pull the broken coupler halves then replace everything, but, tolerances are critical on the coupler.

Mark your rotor position prior to pulling distributor.

 

[dadsbobcat]

Mark your rotor position prior to pulling distributor.

How are you checking the tolerances on the coupling?

 

[6brnorma]

How are you checking the tolerances on the coupling?

This is where you really need the manual. There was an alignment tool to make sure the shaft's were aligned correctly…..shims or grinding on the block under the bracket is sometimes required, when alignment is correct remove the pump, place both coupler halves on loosely, install, gap .025 each of the halves from each other (all the way around while not moving the shaft)……remove, tighten set screws to 9lb torque, install with rubber, check gap again. If you are off on any of this it will shorten the life of rubber (or even all of the coupler) from hours to weeks, depending.

 

[OldMachinist]

This is where you really need the manual. There was an alignment tool to make sure the shaft's were aligned correctly…..shims or grinding on the block under the bracket is sometimes required, when alignment is correct remove the pump, place both coupler halves on loosely, install, gap .025 each of the halves from each other (all the way around while not moving the shaft)……remove, tighten set screws to 9lb torque, install with rubber, check gap again. If you are off on any of this it will shorten the life of rubber (or even all of the coupler) from hours to weeks, depending.

 

[OldMachinist]

 

[dadsbobcat]

Thanks everybody for your advice and the parts diagram. You all have been very helpful.