bobcat 463

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logjam

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Mar 25, 2015
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hi, I have a bobcat 463 I purchased used with 830 hrs. I have removed the front chain case cover so as to loosen the sprocket mounting bolts so I may remove the axles. my question is how do I access the rear axle sprocket bolts or drop the entire chain case. it is evident that maintenance to this machine was a very low priority. I have a service manual, but it only covers the front axle access. Thank you for any assistance.
 
Pretty sure the control vavle has to be removed to get at the rear access cover. Why do you need to remove the axles? I'm not sure, but I think they are two piece so if you only need to replace axle seals, all you have to do is remove the hub. The axle shaft can stay in place. I could be wrong, never really had to play with a 463's axles.
 
Pretty sure the control vavle has to be removed to get at the rear access cover. Why do you need to remove the axles? I'm not sure, but I think they are two piece so if you only need to replace axle seals, all you have to do is remove the hub. The axle shaft can stay in place. I could be wrong, never really had to play with a 463's axles.
Dan is correct, to remove the rear cover you have to remove the control valve and they are 2 piece axles.
 
Dan is correct, to remove the rear cover you have to remove the control valve and they are 2 piece axles.
thanks guys, i appreciate the info on the control valve. but I still would like to drop the chain case to clean! has anyone the knowledge to perform this task ? thanks again for all the assistance.
 
thanks guys, i appreciate the info on the control valve. but I still would like to drop the chain case to clean! has anyone the knowledge to perform this task ? thanks again for all the assistance.
What do you mean by dropping the chaincase? It is the entire underside of machine, all one piece. Dump some diesel fuel inside, slosh it around a bit and drain it out and fill with fresh fluid done.
 
What do you mean by dropping the chaincase? It is the entire underside of machine, all one piece. Dump some diesel fuel inside, slosh it around a bit and drain it out and fill with fresh fluid done.
I certainly can do that. Thanks for the tips!
 
I certainly can do that. Thanks for the tips!
What our your concerns with the chaincase, get water in it? Chaincase fluid recommended service interval is 1000 hours so at 830 hours, time wise the oil is still good.
 
What our your concerns with the chaincase, get water in it? Chaincase fluid recommended service interval is 1000 hours so at 830 hours, time wise the oil is still good.
the inside of the chain case is coated with sludge on the sides and bottom. I have drained the case and it is obvious that the walls and bottom need to be thoroughly cleaned.
 
the inside of the chain case is coated with sludge on the sides and bottom. I have drained the case and it is obvious that the walls and bottom need to be thoroughly cleaned.
hey Bobcatdan, what is the preferred location to break the connecters to the control valve?
 
hey Bobcatdan, what is the preferred location to break the connecters to the control valve?
hi, I removed all four axels and found all bearings (inside and out) shot! actually disintegrated!!! what a mess! the outside of the axels are scored as well as the inside of the hubs. I figure I need new axels, hubs and of course bearings and races. Any suggestions?? I am looking to back out one of the drive motors to take a look and the rear axel sprockets ......... Am I going in the right direction? any help is a blessing at this point. Thank you!!!
 
hi, I removed all four axels and found all bearings (inside and out) shot! actually disintegrated!!! what a mess! the outside of the axels are scored as well as the inside of the hubs. I figure I need new axels, hubs and of course bearings and races. Any suggestions?? I am looking to back out one of the drive motors to take a look and the rear axel sprockets ......... Am I going in the right direction? any help is a blessing at this point. Thank you!!!
It depends on how bad the damage is. If the bearing cups and cones still hold in tight amd the seal surface isn't too bad, you should be ok.
You may even get away using a speedy sleeve on the seal surface. If the taper on the hub is still ok, any wear on the outside of that isn't a real issue.
 
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