Hydraulic oil cooler, help asap.?

[matt681]

How ya going guys, I've got a s130 that's popped the hose of the hydraulic oil cooler on the right hand side, I assume it's running back to tank? I brought a seal kit for my dealer but when I fitted it I must have got the o'rings in the wrong way can any one tell me witch way they go? In the pack I got a steel ring,black o'ring, white back up ring and a thin red o'ring? Also how do you separate the fitting as I pushed it back in and I can't get it back out? Any help would be great thanks guys.

 

[Tazza]

I'm assuming this is a push to connect fitting. They require a special tool to get apart....

 

[OldMachinist]

I'm assuming this is a push to connect fitting. They require a special tool to get apart....

Special tool is nothing but a piece of flat stock with a fork shape.

 

[mrdeere1959]

Special tool is nothing but a piece of flat stock with a fork shape.

the right side takes a insert on some coolers. have your part guy look up by serial #

 

[matt681]

the right side takes a insert on some coolers. have your part guy look up by serial #

Thanks heaps for that guys, I'm at work now so il go and knock up at tool quickly, any ideas about the o'rings and that?

 

[jmatt20]

Thanks heaps for that guys, I'm at work now so il go and knock up at tool quickly, any ideas about the o'rings and that?

ha my dealer nicked me 43. $ for that tool t ..and its not a mel part ..has an aeroquip label on it ,,,pretty sure a couple of thin straight screwdrivers would do the trick ..but when you are down in the field ????

 

[OldMachinist]

ha my dealer nicked me 43. $ for that tool t ..and its not a mel part ..has an aeroquip label on it ,,,pretty sure a couple of thin straight screwdrivers would do the trick ..but when you are down in the field ????

Your lucky he didn't charge you the AeroQuip list price of $79.

 

[Fishfiles]

Your lucky he didn't charge you the AeroQuip list price of $79.

the smallest oring goes around the outside the fitting and gets covered up by the rubber boot of the fitting , the black oring goes down in the groove of the cooler , the white back up ring goes on top the oring facing out , remember back up ring always on the opposite side of the oil , the snap ring goes in the outter most groove of the cooler ------------I see the snap/tite lock fittings pop off alot , but I do find the majority of the time it is when a hammer is on the machine , especially a hammer with a low nitrogen charge --------- it also seems to happen more on T140's , I have seen a few that blew it off a few times and the cooler and /or the hose had to be replaced , the price actually came down on coolers and they are $360 for the T300 as I did one a week ago , they use to cost a lot more than that , there are a few machines out there that I had the radiator shop weld a #12 JIC male fitting inplace of the snap lock and had a hose made to match , saves money but this takes time which most people I deal with don't have , time is money ----------- the T300's with high flow use a #16 fitting , the T3 without high flow and the T250's use #12 , the T 140 , 180 190's you need the #10 wrench - it can be hard to seperate the fitting and sometimes it pops right off , have tried all kinds of formulas and have yet to find the sure fire way to get it first try ------the fitting on the right side of the cooler when looking at it from the rear comes off more than any other , I usuallly put a heavy duty electrical tie strap that fits between the cooler tubes that go into the side pipe and strap around the fitting to give it some extra support

 

[mrdeere1959]

the smallest oring goes around the outside the fitting and gets covered up by the rubber boot of the fitting , the black oring goes down in the groove of the cooler , the white back up ring goes on top the oring facing out , remember back up ring always on the opposite side of the oil , the snap ring goes in the outter most groove of the cooler ------------I see the snap/tite lock fittings pop off alot , but I do find the majority of the time it is when a hammer is on the machine , especially a hammer with a low nitrogen charge --------- it also seems to happen more on T140's , I have seen a few that blew it off a few times and the cooler and /or the hose had to be replaced , the price actually came down on coolers and they are $360 for the T300 as I did one a week ago , they use to cost a lot more than that , there are a few machines out there that I had the radiator shop weld a #12 JIC male fitting inplace of the snap lock and had a hose made to match , saves money but this takes time which most people I deal with don't have , time is money ----------- the T300's with high flow use a #16 fitting , the T3 without high flow and the T250's use #12 , the T 140 , 180 190's you need the #10 wrench - it can be hard to seperate the fitting and sometimes it pops right off , have tried all kinds of formulas and have yet to find the sure fire way to get it first try ------the fitting on the right side of the cooler when looking at it from the rear comes off more than any other , I usuallly put a heavy duty electrical tie strap that fits between the cooler tubes that go into the side pipe and strap around the fitting to give it some extra support

Had a customer with a s250 the right line came off the cooler and the hyd oil shot rigth in the air intake to the air cleaner, he tried to shut it off but it keep on running , burning the hyd oil. he said it filled the building with smoke. lol. I installed an insert and oring kit. engine seemed to run ok. that was about 500 hrs ago. so it seems no damage to engine was done.

 

[matt681]

Had a customer with a s250 the right line came off the cooler and the hyd oil shot rigth in the air intake to the air cleaner, he tried to shut it off but it keep on running , burning the hyd oil. he said it filled the building with smoke. lol. I installed an insert and oring kit. engine seemed to run ok. that was about 500 hrs ago. so it seems no damage to engine was done.

Thanks for the help guys, I ended up making a tool out of 50x3mm flat bar, drilled a 16mm hole in the plate filed the hole out bigger since I didn't have a bigger drill bit, cut too the out side of the hole to make the c part, run a strip of wield down either side and ground it too a wedge, didn't look any thing fancy but got the job done for nothing. I went back too my local dealer, since they were a pain in the ass to deal with over the phone. I went and spoke to the spare parts guy who was great, printed off the cut away photos, gave me a seal kit for nothing and the steel insert and spring washer thing, got it all back together and not leaking then spent 2 hours and 10 liters of degreaser too got all the oil off the machine.

 

[matt681]

Thanks for the help guys, I ended up making a tool out of 50x3mm flat bar, drilled a 16mm hole in the plate filed the hole out bigger since I didn't have a bigger drill bit, cut too the out side of the hole to make the c part, run a strip of wield down either side and ground it too a wedge, didn't look any thing fancy but got the job done for nothing. I went back too my local dealer, since they were a pain in the ass to deal with over the phone. I went and spoke to the spare parts guy who was great, printed off the cut away photos, gave me a seal kit for nothing and the steel insert and spring washer thing, got it all back together and not leaking then spent 2 hours and 10 liters of degreaser too got all the oil off the machine.

Also I was running a 4 in 1 bucket witch I was closing at the time the hose popped off.

 

[Tazza]

Also I was running a 4 in 1 bucket witch I was closing at the time the hose popped off.

Wow, good dealer servise you got there!
Glad you got a tool made up, they aren't too complicated.
The bucket shouldn't have caused the hose to pop off, hopefully just one of those rare things.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

Wow, good dealer servise you got there!
Glad you got a tool made up, they aren't too complicated.
The bucket shouldn't have caused the hose to pop off, hopefully just one of those rare things.

yore four in one may be the issue. i normally see this in breakers with blown accumalotors, , most grapples and 4 in ones require a port relieif (option) in aux to prevent this

 

[Tazza]

yore four in one may be the issue. i normally see this in breakers with blown accumalotors, , most grapples and 4 in ones require a port relieif (option) in aux to prevent this

I have always run 4 in 1 buckets, never had an issue........

 

[matt681]

I have always run 4 in 1 buckets, never had an issue........

The steel retainer ring was worn to a flat on one side, I'm assuming that was why it let go, the machine has a bit over 2000hrs on it.