Engine questions, need advice

[ancomcabs]

Update Installed new fuel filter and moved it outside the engine compartment, routed fuel line as far away from the engine as possible. managed to install an aluminum shield between the carb and exhaust manifold on one side to help keep heat away. My manifold did not look exactly like the picture, I did cut a little away but I was reluctant to cut too much, don't think what I did made much of an affect. Started her up and let it idle/get hot for about 20-30 minutes then got in and started moving around, not lifting material or anything, lasted about 3 minutes then it stared to die! Not sure what to try next, I did check the temp in several places with an infared when it was running the exhaust manifolds were up around 400 degrees, the carb itself was much lower ~135-150. the fins on the heads were lower as well ~200-220. the fuel line was below 100 as well. Any ideas?

Meant to say fuel line was below 200
Would post a pic of the manifold but can't get it to work

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

Thanks OM, if I interpret this correctly I should not cut completely thru? just reduce the width of the connection?

old m where in the world did you find that? any thing on a one lung cast iron kohler in a 371. i did get smoother by lapping valves points etc (not shooting flame out exhuast any more but still could use some tweaking

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

old m where in the world did you find that? any thing on a one lung cast iron kohler in a 371. i did get smoother by lapping valves points etc (not shooting flame out exhuast any more but still could use some tweaking

if tacking on question on anothers thread is in approaite please hammer down.

 

[ancomcabs]

if tacking on question on anothers thread is in approaite please hammer down.

No problem with me, I'm just hoping you have some answers for my VH4D

 

[OldMachinist]

No problem with me, I'm just hoping you have some answers for my VH4D

When the Wisconsin shuts down and will not restart check see if its still getting spark. The easiest why I find to do that is to hook up the timing and crank the engine. At least you'll be able to determine if its fuel or ignition problem.

 

[OldMachinist]

When the Wisconsin shuts down and will not restart check see if its still getting spark. The easiest why I find to do that is to hook up the timing and crank the engine. At least you'll be able to determine if its fuel or ignition problem.

7LBSSMALLIE I have the service manual for the Kohler K321 14hp in the 371. Send a message to the email address in my profile and I'll send you a download link.

 

[ancomcabs]

When the Wisconsin shuts down and will not restart check see if its still getting spark. The easiest why I find to do that is to hook up the timing and crank the engine. At least you'll be able to determine if its fuel or ignition problem.

Do you mean hook up a timing light? If so I can do that. I'm going out of town for a week, wish I could try this out tomorrow but it will have to wait-Thanks

 

[OldMachinist]

Do you mean hook up a timing light? If so I can do that. I'm going out of town for a week, wish I could try this out tomorrow but it will have to wait-Thanks

Yes to verify if you're still getting anything from the coil I hook up my regular automotive timing light the normal way and crank the engine. If the timing light flashes you've got spark.

 

[ancomcabs]

Yes to verify if you're still getting anything from the coil I hook up my regular automotive timing light the normal way and crank the engine. If the timing light flashes you've got spark.

Installed new coil, re-routed fuel line as far as I could away from heat. Ran it this aafternoon for an hour+ with out any problems. It was a bit cooler today, about 50-55 degrees so I'm happy but not convinced. Hopefully I'll get the same results when it is warmer out, 70 plus
Thanks

 

[anti]

Installed new coil, re-routed fuel line as far as I could away from heat. Ran it this aafternoon for an hour+ with out any problems. It was a bit cooler today, about 50-55 degrees so I'm happy but not convinced. Hopefully I'll get the same results when it is warmer out, 70 plus
Thanks

I just replaced the coil yesterday in my 630 because of a similar sounding problem.
Now, insted of cranking forever and fussing with the choke- it just fires right up.
It ran before, but it would stall and then not restart. When I checked the spark with a new plug in the dark- it had an intermittent and weak orange spark.

 

[Tazza]

I just replaced the coil yesterday in my 630 because of a similar sounding problem.
Now, insted of cranking forever and fussing with the choke- it just fires right up.
It ran before, but it would stall and then not restart. When I checked the spark with a new plug in the dark- it had an intermittent and weak orange spark.

I was told the way to know if you have a strong spark is to check the colour, red/orange is low, blue is what it should look like.

 

[ancomcabs]

I was told the way to know if you have a strong spark is to check the colour, red/orange is low, blue is what it should look like.

Ok, used the Bobcat again today, new coil. It was about 50 out so heat should not be an issue, ran it for almost 2 hours before the same thing started happening, it would bog down and want to stall unless I backed off, called it a day and limped back to the trailer.
About all I have left to do is rebuild te carb and if that does not fix it I'm not sure where to look. Given the age of the machine is there anything I may be overlooking?, could old or worn down hydraulics cause the engine to act this way? Tilt and lift functions seem to work fine and driving and steering seem OK but I honestly don't have anything to compare it to. I do notice there is a difference in handleing with no bucket on compared to when I have the snow plow on (weight cantelevered out the legnth of the arms) but I kind of tought that would be expected.
Just looking for other ideas-Thanks

 

[jerry]

Ok, used the Bobcat again today, new coil. It was about 50 out so heat should not be an issue, ran it for almost 2 hours before the same thing started happening, it would bog down and want to stall unless I backed off, called it a day and limped back to the trailer.
About all I have left to do is rebuild te carb and if that does not fix it I'm not sure where to look. Given the age of the machine is there anything I may be overlooking?, could old or worn down hydraulics cause the engine to act this way? Tilt and lift functions seem to work fine and driving and steering seem OK but I honestly don't have anything to compare it to. I do notice there is a difference in handleing with no bucket on compared to when I have the snow plow on (weight cantelevered out the legnth of the arms) but I kind of tought that would be expected.
Just looking for other ideas-Thanks

You may have done it already but take the guts out of the distributer and make sure the mechanical advance down it the bottom is nice and free, had a 610 with that engine and the advance was a ball of rust. Makes a lot of difference when it works right.

 

[ancomcabs]

You may have done it already but take the guts out of the distributer and make sure the mechanical advance down it the bottom is nice and free, had a 610 with that engine and the advance was a ball of rust. Makes a lot of difference when it works right.

I've timed it but not taken the distributor apart, this one has the electronic ignition version-would your suggestion apply?

 

[OldMachinist]

I've timed it but not taken the distributor apart, this one has the electronic ignition version-would your suggestion apply?

I just thought of something that might cause the problem. A clogged vent on the gas cap. You can either try running it loose to see if the problem goes away or leave it tight and then see if there's vacuum on the tank after you've run it for awhile.
On the other question yes you still need the mechanical advance to work with electronic ignition.

 

[ancomcabs]

I just thought of something that might cause the problem. A clogged vent on the gas cap. You can either try running it loose to see if the problem goes away or leave it tight and then see if there's vacuum on the tank after you've run it for awhile.
On the other question yes you still need the mechanical advance to work with electronic ignition.

Thanks OM I'll try leaving the cap loose next time I work it
Andy

 

[jerry]

Thanks OM I'll try leaving the cap loose next time I work it
Andy

If the gas cap vent is clogged, which sure makes sense, be sure to check or replace the hyd tank cap also. they cost less than 10 bucks I believe.

 

[ancomcabs]

If the gas cap vent is clogged, which sure makes sense, be sure to check or replace the hyd tank cap also. they cost less than 10 bucks I believe.

Rebuilt the carb, my first one and amazingly enought there were no spare parts. Pretty much started right up, I adjusted the idle and checked tinming again to be safe, adjusted the govener according to the manual, it was way off before even though it seemed to run ok.
It runs pretty good although it is kind of hard starting, have to crank it alot more then before, could I have done something internally to cause that? Could it be the throttle/govener adjustment? I've got the choke adjusted as it was before. Just ran it around the yard a little, didn't work it long enough to be able to tell if it has helped the cutting out problem

 

[jerry]

Rebuilt the carb, my first one and amazingly enought there were no spare parts. Pretty much started right up, I adjusted the idle and checked tinming again to be safe, adjusted the govener according to the manual, it was way off before even though it seemed to run ok.
It runs pretty good although it is kind of hard starting, have to crank it alot more then before, could I have done something internally to cause that? Could it be the throttle/govener adjustment? I've got the choke adjusted as it was before. Just ran it around the yard a little, didn't work it long enough to be able to tell if it has helped the cutting out problem

If it is just hard starting after sitting quite a few hours put a outboard motor squeeze bulb in the gas line. I think the heat from the engine evaporates most of the gas in the bowl after shutdown and a bulb is the quickest cure for that.

 

[anti]

If it is just hard starting after sitting quite a few hours put a outboard motor squeeze bulb in the gas line. I think the heat from the engine evaporates most of the gas in the bowl after shutdown and a bulb is the quickest cure for that.

I'm really interested to hear if the carb rebuild did the trick or not.
Although it seemed like the coil fixed my problem, it still shuts down after about 30 minutes running time. I did order a replacement gas cap too- the old one was not the right one.
I'm planning to open up the carb now too.