A couple of questions: 1) If the cab seems pretty heavy lifting up 1-2 feet do I need new lift struts? 2) I lifted the cab up all the way and the lift struts still seem to be under pressure to expand? Is that normal? 3) The lift struts the dealer got for me have an eye in one end and the other end is threaded. I think both ends should have an eye. 4) Should the cab stay put if I lift it 2 feet or 4 feet? Or only stay put if lifted all the way? Thanks. Don
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you reuse the eye off the old shock , sometimes it is rusted up and won't come off so I always get a new one as they are cheap enough and can save a long ride back , a trick when you change them is to remove the rubber bumpers that are behind the cab , this will let the cab go farther back and will give you another inch as it is pretty hard to compress the shock and get the pin in
OK, thanks. But how do I determine if I really need new lift struts? Should the cab glide effortlessly up as I lift it? If my current struts are still under pressure to expand when fully extended (or nearly) does that say they are still good?
It depends. How heavy does the cab feel when you lift it up? It should be an easy task that doesn't result in swearing and sweating while trying to lift it. If its not a hard job, they are fine.
It will not stay in one place if partially extended. Its either down or up, not between.
OldMachinist
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You'd know if you needed new struts. It would be very hard to lift and you will not be able to hold the cab from slamming down when you're closing it.
So if I can lift it up and let it down with one hand, then the struts are probably OK?
OldMachinist
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Yes
I was incorrectly convinced that the struts were worn out. I have one of the pins (left side) that I cannot get back in. The strut is very tight and the hole in the strut needs to come up a bit. I tried taking off the bumpers to lift the cab a tiny bit more, but the cab seems to be hitting the left pivot point for the arm when its 99% raised? Maybe the cab got bent slightly over the years. Ideas?
Its not bent, they are tight like this. I use a large flat blade screwdriver and a helper. I lever the end of the strut down (if working from the bottom) and get a helper to engage the pin. Its not fun, but it gets done. Just remember there is about 100kg of force behind them, keep your fingers away so they don't get pinched, even though there is only a small amount of movement that you are trying to make to get it to seat.
I was not saying the cab was bent and that is why the strut is tight. I was saying the cab might be bent and that is why its hitting the left pivot point of the main lift arm. Its close but not really mushing the rubber bumpers. If I could get the cab lifted 100% it might be easier to get the strut pin in.
Ah, got ya. Even if its not fully up, you should be able to lever it into place, its just really tight.
I have tried all kinds of tricks. I bought some oak wedges used to replace an ax handle and tried to get it part of the way down with those. The bumpers are removed and I got the cab past the lift arm pivot point.
I was going to make a "strut compressor" out of some 1/8" aircraft cable and a turnbuckle. I would attach the bottom of the strut to the skidder, then run the cable from the bottom mount to a loop around the top with the turnbuckle in the middle. With the cab lifted up all the way, I only need to compress it about 1/2". It looks like 1/8" holds about 350 lbs, is that enough strength? I assume so. Other thoughts? Ideas? The dealer said if one of the mounts is bolted to the skidder, then remove one bolt and rotate the mount out and do it that way.
I thought the struts were loaded with 50kg of pressure behind them. I had to get one made/gassed. My dad took it to get done, he copied one i had that was good, he was surprised that it was so heavy.
I like your idea, i can't see why it wouldn't work. If the ROPS mounting bolt is free to move, it may be an easier option though. Some can be pretty tight when they rust up, been there, done that before now.
