Tree and brush puller. Now the welding.......

[perry]

Finally got all the metal cut, now the welding. I'm still not sure how to butt the turn buckle up to the top pivot, it's got to be at a 45 degree angle. Any suggestions?.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Perry
Trying to wrap my head around this
What does hte turn buckle adjust?
Are both jaws power or is one going to be fixed? Since you have laid the pivots out in the center of the backing plate I assume there is 2 cylinders, pne on each side?
The open topped C shapped piece (with the short pin) is going to hold one of the jaws?
The long large dia pins are for?
Ken

 

[perry]

Perry
Trying to wrap my head around this
What does hte turn buckle adjust?
Are both jaws power or is one going to be fixed? Since you have laid the pivots out in the center of the backing plate I assume there is 2 cylinders, pne on each side?
The open topped C shapped piece (with the short pin) is going to hold one of the jaws?
The long large dia pins are for?
Ken

Ken, it will look like this, although I'm building mine heavier. The left side is 'fixed', I'm using the turn buckle in place of the right side 45 degree brace you see. I figured the teeth could lose alignment after heavy use and the turn buckle would solve that problem.

 

[mllud]

Perry
On end of the turnbuckle that attaches to the push bar could have a square plate welded to the end the same thickness as the turnbuckle bar. [3x3inches X 1 inch thick,with a hole through in it for a pin.
Then weld a piece like you built for the end of your brackets {the triangle with a hole thru it} to the back edge of your round push bar.Where you want the turnbuckle to attach.Then the flat end you welded to the turnbuckle would go flat against that to the inside.Weld another bracket on the push bar on other side of the flat end. A pin would go thru all three pieces.
The uprights on a three point hitch have a u shaped end that straddles the lift bars With a pin to attach.
That could be a way to attach to your mounting plate. The u shaped end could be welded on the turnbuckle and straddle a bracket welded on the mounting plate.
I typed this out once and it got lost in GIGAspace and it really BITES. This is another sleepless night so take that into consideration.I could have dreamed this whole thing up. Mike

 

[perry]

Perry
On end of the turnbuckle that attaches to the push bar could have a square plate welded to the end the same thickness as the turnbuckle bar. [3x3inches X 1 inch thick,with a hole through in it for a pin.
Then weld a piece like you built for the end of your brackets {the triangle with a hole thru it} to the back edge of your round push bar.Where you want the turnbuckle to attach.Then the flat end you welded to the turnbuckle would go flat against that to the inside.Weld another bracket on the push bar on other side of the flat end. A pin would go thru all three pieces.
The uprights on a three point hitch have a u shaped end that straddles the lift bars With a pin to attach.
That could be a way to attach to your mounting plate. The u shaped end could be welded on the turnbuckle and straddle a bracket welded on the mounting plate.
I typed this out once and it got lost in GIGAspace and it really BITES. This is another sleepless night so take that into consideration.I could have dreamed this whole thing up. Mike

Mike, I tried to visualize your instructions, but little success except for the pin idea which I like. Did plan to cut each end of the turn buckle at 45 degrees, then mill flat area on the upper pivot and lower tooth bar. That would give me flat surfaces to weld on. The upper pivot is 4" diameter and the tooth round bar is 3", the turn buckle threaded ends are 1 1/2" diameter.

 

[mllud]

Mike, I tried to visualize your instructions, but little success except for the pin idea which I like. Did plan to cut each end of the turn buckle at 45 degrees, then mill flat area on the upper pivot and lower tooth bar. That would give me flat surfaces to weld on. The upper pivot is 4" diameter and the tooth round bar is 3", the turn buckle threaded ends are 1 1/2" diameter.

I was thinking both ends needed to have a joint that had some swivel becausit the 4" bar hinges.
The large Turnbuckles on tractors for the horizontal struts bave one end as t described and the other end is sort of what I was trying to describe. There is a lot of farm impliments that have large turnbuckles like that.Maybe a walk around the local tractor dealer would with ideas.I think most sickle bars have one.
I talk with my hands so doing it on a computer as dificult.
Looks like your tree puller will be heavy duty. mike

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I was thinking both ends needed to have a joint that had some swivel becausit the 4" bar hinges.
The large Turnbuckles on tractors for the horizontal struts bave one end as t described and the other end is sort of what I was trying to describe. There is a lot of farm impliments that have large turnbuckles like that.Maybe a walk around the local tractor dealer would with ideas.I think most sickle bars have one.
I talk with my hands so doing it on a computer as dificult.
Looks like your tree puller will be heavy duty. mike

Mike
When you type out a long post make a point of selecting and copying the text (ctrl C) before you hit "post"
The if it vanishes in cyberspace you can just paste it in again.
I've had the same problem. I think there is a limit to how many minutes you can type in the box, because it onlyhappens when I have been explaning something difficult.
Ken

 

[mllud]

Mike
When you type out a long post make a point of selecting and copying the text (ctrl C) before you hit "post"
The if it vanishes in cyberspace you can just paste it in again.
I've had the same problem. I think there is a limit to how many minutes you can type in the box, because it onlyhappens when I have been explaning something difficult.
Ken

Perry
One more thing I forgot . If you weld either end of the turnbuckle in a fixed position when you make an adjustment it will put the weld in a bind. The angle will change. You arent going to be moving it much. May not be a problem. Mike

 

[perry]

Perry
One more thing I forgot . If you weld either end of the turnbuckle in a fixed position when you make an adjustment it will put the weld in a bind. The angle will change. You arent going to be moving it much. May not be a problem. Mike

That would be a problem Mike, thanks for bringing it to my attention. Now!, gotta come up with some kind of pivot assembly.

 

[mllud]

That would be a problem Mike, thanks for bringing it to my attention. Now!, gotta come up with some kind of pivot assembly.

Perry
could you weld a 3 to 4 inch piece of the 1.5" rod on the end of the turnbuckle{cross ways}. That would make a T end, Then you could weld brackets on the 4" round to secure it.Two breckets with holes to lock the T end to the 4" That would pivot.
Mike

 

[perry]

Perry
could you weld a 3 to 4 inch piece of the 1.5" rod on the end of the turnbuckle{cross ways}. That would make a T end, Then you could weld brackets on the 4" round to secure it.Two breckets with holes to lock the T end to the 4" That would pivot.
Mike

Good idea Mike, I was also thinking about welding a 2-3" sleeved tube on each end of the turn buckle, this would give an up-down pivot which is all I need. I did call Bailey's tech department and ask about pulling limits on their hydraulic cylinders with welded sleeved tube ends, they said it would hold up to 27,000 lbs. I ask just to get an idea of what pressure limits were.

 

[mllud]

Good idea Mike, I was also thinking about welding a 2-3" sleeved tube on each end of the turn buckle, this would give an up-down pivot which is all I need. I did call Bailey's tech department and ask about pulling limits on their hydraulic cylinders with welded sleeved tube ends, they said it would hold up to 27,000 lbs. I ask just to get an idea of what pressure limits were.

Your not going to exceed that pull. Your sleeved idea would work.
I got to thinking if you welded the T on the end that could be a weak point. I would thread two nuts on the threaded end and tack them together. That would ensure thread alignment. then weld the T end to the nuts. That would give you more meat to weld to and you could thread it on and finish welding the nuts together.
All you need is enough adjustment to keep the teeth square as things strech and things wear. The thing is going to get put to the test because of its intended use.I see your reason for making it adjustable. Mike

 

[perry]

Your not going to exceed that pull. Your sleeved idea would work.
I got to thinking if you welded the T on the end that could be a weak point. I would thread two nuts on the threaded end and tack them together. That would ensure thread alignment. then weld the T end to the nuts. That would give you more meat to weld to and you could thread it on and finish welding the nuts together.
All you need is enough adjustment to keep the teeth square as things strech and things wear. The thing is going to get put to the test because of its intended use.I see your reason for making it adjustable. Mike

Another good idea Mike. It would need to be a sleeve of some sort because there are no threads on the ends. But that's no problem with my old 1946 south bend lathe

 

[mllud]

Another good idea Mike. It would need to be a sleeve of some sort because there are no threads on the ends. But that's no problem with my old 1946 south bend lathe

Perry
I have a 48" South bend. I havent been able to get my shop set up. I also have a Do All band saw and a old Kearney Trecker mill.They are packed in a corner like sardenes.I started rehabing the house and need to finish it before I set up the shop.Cant wait. Those old lathes are perfect for bushings , threading and small shaft work. I traded some body work out for the machines to a guy that owned a machine shop. I hate doing body work but when trading labor you do what you have to.
If I had my way I would have the lathe in a spare bedroom. Mike

 

[Tazza]

Perry
I have a 48" South bend. I havent been able to get my shop set up. I also have a Do All band saw and a old Kearney Trecker mill.They are packed in a corner like sardenes.I started rehabing the house and need to finish it before I set up the shop.Cant wait. Those old lathes are perfect for bushings , threading and small shaft work. I traded some body work out for the machines to a guy that owned a machine shop. I hate doing body work but when trading labor you do what you have to.
If I had my way I would have the lathe in a spare bedroom. Mike

A lathe is so handy, i don't think there is a week that goes by that i don't use mine. Was the best $2,500 i ever spent, it was bought new and still just as tight and acurate 8 years later.

 

[perry]

A lathe is so handy, i don't think there is a week that goes by that i don't use mine. Was the best $2,500 i ever spent, it was bought new and still just as tight and acurate 8 years later.

 

[perry]

I picked up this lathe when eastern airlines closed operations. It's just a 9X36 but stil handles most of what I do.

 

[mllud]

I picked up this lathe when eastern airlines closed operations. It's just a 9X36 but stil handles most of what I do.

Perry
Is there a way to find out when south Bends were built by the serial number?
I went out yesterday and started digging mine out. I havent used it yet. It was goverment surplus. It doesnt look like it seen much use. Its torture having something like that I cant use. Mike

 

[OldMachinist]

Perry
Is there a way to find out when south Bends were built by the serial number?
I went out yesterday and started digging mine out. I havent used it yet. It was goverment surplus. It doesnt look like it seen much use. Its torture having something like that I cant use. Mike

LeBlond now owns and services the South Bend lathe line. They can tell you when your lathe was made and for who. http://www.southbendlathe.com/ You can also check here to get a general idea of when yours was made. http://www.wswells.com/serial_number.html I have a 16" x 57" South Bend and use it all the time. It was made in 1946 and still runs great.