Pulling hair out, 742 issues

[redneckchevy]

I haven't had time to do much to it. I did do a compressing check on it and it was reading around 120 across all 4.

Oh and I did check, The wires are set 1-2-4-3

 

[redneckchevy]

To check timing you need to remove the belt shield.There are two marks on the crankshaft pulley. On the front cover of the engine there are notches with numbers above them 0, 4, 8, 12. You have to match them that one mark is on 12 and the other is close to 8. Remove the spark plug on cylinder number 1 / the one to the distributor /, put it on the wire and put it on a nice ground.Put the ignition switch ON. Loosen the distributor and start rotating it slowly. When you see / hear the spark, stop rotating the distributor. Tighten it. This is the procedure for the right timing. Also check that no ignition spark plug wires are exchanged. If you look at the distributor top, counterclockwise after the wire on cylinder 1, it must be wire to cylinder 2, followed bywire to cylinder 4, followed by wire to cylinder 3. The firing order of these engines is 1-2-4-3, a lot of people confuse it with the usual 1-3-4-2. As for the carburetor solenoid - yes it is. To check it, remove the wire from it , you need to remove the top part of carburetor with float. Attach a long wire to the solenoid, put the ignition key in the ON position. There should be no gasoline run. Touch the wire attached to the solenoid to the battery plus the gasoline should run. Be very cautious because gasoline has very volatile vapors and can cause a fire.

OK, So I tried setting the timing tonight, I pulled the cover and found the TD-4-8-12 marks, But there is only one mark on the pulley. So I turned the engine over so the mark was lined up to the 12. Loosened the distributor and started rotating it and I did not get any spark no matter what way I turned it. If I cranked the engine over with the starter I got spark but not turning the distributor by hand.

 

[craigb93]

OK, So I tried setting the timing tonight, I pulled the cover and found the TD-4-8-12 marks, But there is only one mark on the pulley. So I turned the engine over so the mark was lined up to the 12. Loosened the distributor and started rotating it and I did not get any spark no matter what way I turned it. If I cranked the engine over with the starter I got spark but not turning the distributor by hand.

I suggest finding a strobe type timing light you can borrow and go from there. The method you are attempting will work if you use a voltmeter on the continuity setting to find the position that the points 'break' open. Just connect one VOM lead to the distributor terminal on the coil and ground the other lead. Then rotate the distributor. If your meter has a continuity tone setting, use that. If you use the strobe light, start the engine then unplug the vacuum hose from the distributor, adjust to 12 deg BTC, tighten the dist and then reconnect the vac hose. Back to the original problem......The carburetor emulsion tube openings and the main jet opening must be restored to their full clear size with the appropriate drill to ever expect results. I have additionally removed the anti-dieseling solenoid that screws directly in to the carburetor inlet on my machine. The solenoids tend to stick or clog with any bit of trash. I use 90 octane ethanol free fuel and have no problem with run-on at shutdown. I doubt a lower octane fuel would be a problem either. -Dick

 

[redneckchevy]

I suggest finding a strobe type timing light you can borrow and go from there. The method you are attempting will work if you use a voltmeter on the continuity setting to find the position that the points 'break' open. Just connect one VOM lead to the distributor terminal on the coil and ground the other lead. Then rotate the distributor. If your meter has a continuity tone setting, use that. If you use the strobe light, start the engine then unplug the vacuum hose from the distributor, adjust to 12 deg BTC, tighten the dist and then reconnect the vac hose. Back to the original problem......The carburetor emulsion tube openings and the main jet opening must be restored to their full clear size with the appropriate drill to ever expect results. I have additionally removed the anti-dieseling solenoid that screws directly in to the carburetor inlet on my machine. The solenoids tend to stick or clog with any bit of trash. I use 90 octane ethanol free fuel and have no problem with run-on at shutdown. I doubt a lower octane fuel would be a problem either. -Dick

Okay, So it been a little while sense I have worked on it due to work. But I got a chance last night, As I posted earlier I had did a compression test and it read 120-130 across all 4 and that is the last thing I did, So I went out there last night, Hit the key just for giggles and it started right up, Didn't run the best but started, ran for about a min then shut down again. So I started going over the fuel system again, even hooked it up to a temp gas tank. I can pull the hose from the carb and hit the key and it will pump gas. I got it to start one more time with about the same result. I walked away from it for the night, went had supper and a few drinks Lol and went back out this morning, I was starting to check over the carb again and checking the wiring to the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb when the wire basically fell right out of the connection for it. I put it back in and hit the key and she fired back up, Still not running good, But I know the timing is off now as I messed with it and I can smell its running really rich. How do I go about removing that solenoid so I don't have to fight with making sure it works? Also were are the adjusting screws on this carb to lean it out?

 

[flyerdan]

Okay, So it been a little while sense I have worked on it due to work. But I got a chance last night, As I posted earlier I had did a compression test and it read 120-130 across all 4 and that is the last thing I did, So I went out there last night, Hit the key just for giggles and it started right up, Didn't run the best but started, ran for about a min then shut down again. So I started going over the fuel system again, even hooked it up to a temp gas tank. I can pull the hose from the carb and hit the key and it will pump gas. I got it to start one more time with about the same result. I walked away from it for the night, went had supper and a few drinks Lol and went back out this morning, I was starting to check over the carb again and checking the wiring to the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb when the wire basically fell right out of the connection for it. I put it back in and hit the key and she fired back up, Still not running good, But I know the timing is off now as I messed with it and I can smell its running really rich. How do I go about removing that solenoid so I don't have to fight with making sure it works? Also were are the adjusting screws on this carb to lean it out?

Rather than eliminating the solenoid valve and opening up the possibility of problems that might incur, I'd suggest just fixing the wire. I hate crimp connectors and always use solder and heat shrink tube.
Somewhere in the manual thread there is a good copy of the 743 book that includes all the 741 and 742 versions as well. If you don't have one, it's worth having a nose about and finding it.

 

[Gundo]

I’m having same issues! Did you ever solve this?