Parts info on track drive motors

siduramaxde · Nov 13, 2008

If you have a Bobcat CTL with the old style track drive motor you can replace the outer bearing if you are concerned about a bad bearing ruining the drive motor. I had metal flakes in my hub oil so I decided to take the drive motor out and replace the bearing. Once I got the motor apart I found that the outer bearing race was damaged. I have found all the parts for under $400.00 US. The bearing and race part # is 32014 X/Q (SKF bearing) and the hub oil seal is part #25950 (SKF oil seal). I got both of these parts from my local NAPA for $110.00. I did have to get 2 face seals and 2 large O-ring seals from Bobcat and they cost $200 some dollars. If you have a press and a bearing puller you can do this at home. I took my motor out of the machine and then took it to a local hydraulic repair shop and they are doing the work for $150. So if you are worried about your drive motor you can have peace of mind for about $400 - $600. It sure beats $5000 for a new motor.

thetool · Dec 16, 2008

That's good parts info-
I'll be interested to know how your repair holds up. I guess with the same shaft and housing, the pre-load and shim set-up might be the same, i.e., you could just re-use your shim or shims the same way as the old one.
$150 seems pretty cheap for a machine shop to do the amount of work to get down to the hub, disassemble and reassemble, check pre-load, etc.
I hope it turns out.

siduramaxde · Dec 16, 2008

thetool said:
That's good parts info-
I'll be interested to know how your repair holds up. I guess with the same shaft and housing, the pre-load and shim set-up might be the same, i.e., you could just re-use your shim or shims the same way as the old one.
$150 seems pretty cheap for a machine shop to do the amount of work to get down to the hub, disassemble and reassemble, check pre-load, etc.
I hope it turns out.

We did end up using the old thrust washer because the dealer said that they didn't make any other size thrust washers. We did check the preload and it was right at 9000 lbs. (just what the book calls for). So far so good. I have put about 20 hours on the machine with no trouble. The reason the machine shop was so cheap is because I stayed around and helped him wrestle the drive motor. It really didn't take long to replace the bearing and seals (about 2 hours) and now I think I could do the other side in less time.

scsindust · Mar 12, 2009

siduramaxde said:
We did end up using the old thrust washer because the dealer said that they didn't make any other size thrust washers. We did check the preload and it was right at 9000 lbs. (just what the book calls for). So far so good. I have put about 20 hours on the machine with no trouble. The reason the machine shop was so cheap is because I stayed around and helped him wrestle the drive motor. It really didn't take long to replace the bearing and seals (about 2 hours) and now I think I could do the other side in less time.

I just ordered the outer bearing, and the two seals from bobcat for $200. I read through your description of parts, but I could only find two seals in the front assembly. You said two face seals and a hub oil seal? i found one hub oil seal and one face seal. I have a t190 from 2001, so I assume we are talking about the same machines? Anyway, just FYI, the parts I bought didn't run me as much. Did I get the same parts, or did the prices come down?....

mrfixitpaul · Apr 7, 2009

scsindust said:
I just ordered the outer bearing, and the two seals from bobcat for $200. I read through your description of parts, but I could only find two seals in the front assembly. You said two face seals and a hub oil seal? i found one hub oil seal and one face seal. I have a t190 from 2001, so I assume we are talking about the same machines? Anyway, just FYI, the parts I bought didn't run me as much. Did I get the same parts, or did the prices come down?....

I've never changed the oil for the final drive bearing on the T200. Do I just let id slowly drainout the small plug hole? How much does it take to refill?

Fishfiles · Apr 7, 2009

mrfixitpaul said:
I've never changed the oil for the final drive bearing on the T200. Do I just let id slowly drainout the small plug hole? How much does it take to refill?

With the plug at the 6 o'clock position it will drain very slow , holds 3 ounzes -------------I did a 300 today and when I pick up the oil I was told they changed the oil used , it looks the same color and everything , it cost $6 bucks more , it was $51 for 6 ounzes

siduramaxde · Apr 10, 2009

scsindust said:
I just ordered the outer bearing, and the two seals from bobcat for $200. I read through your description of parts, but I could only find two seals in the front assembly. You said two face seals and a hub oil seal? i found one hub oil seal and one face seal. I have a t190 from 2001, so I assume we are talking about the same machines? Anyway, just FYI, the parts I bought didn't run me as much. Did I get the same parts, or did the prices come down?....

to scsindust, I guess you consider the two halves of the face seal as "one". The face seal I got consisted of 4 pieces - 2 large rubber o-rings and 2 precision ground metal ring things. Maybe the drive motor in a T190 is different than a T200? Come to think of it, the last time I saw a T190 I could've swore that the drive motor was smaller. What were the part numbers that you got? To everyone, I put about 200 hours on this repair and it seems to holding up just fine. I think the key is to find any problems with the drive motor and fix it before it ruins the drive motor. Change the carrier oil often, its cheap and easy. I have been changing mine every 100 hours and I check the old oil for any metal (if there is metal in the oil it will look like metalic paint when you shine a flash light on it). I don't use the expensive oil bobcat sells. I just go to my local Napa and buy synthetic Vavoline gear oil and it seems to be doing fine. The damage to my drive motor occured before I bought the machine.

scsindust · Apr 10, 2009

siduramaxde said:
to scsindust, I guess you consider the two halves of the face seal as "one". The face seal I got consisted of 4 pieces - 2 large rubber o-rings and 2 precision ground metal ring things. Maybe the drive motor in a T190 is different than a T200? Come to think of it, the last time I saw a T190 I could've swore that the drive motor was smaller. What were the part numbers that you got? To everyone, I put about 200 hours on this repair and it seems to holding up just fine. I think the key is to find any problems with the drive motor and fix it before it ruins the drive motor. Change the carrier oil often, its cheap and easy. I have been changing mine every 100 hours and I check the old oil for any metal (if there is metal in the oil it will look like metalic paint when you shine a flash light on it). I don't use the expensive oil bobcat sells. I just go to my local Napa and buy synthetic Vavoline gear oil and it seems to be doing fine. The damage to my drive motor occured before I bought the machine.

Your right. The face seal has two halves. My repair is holding up good too, though I only put 10 hours on it since then. What weight gear oil are you using?

scsindust · Sep 1, 2009

scsindust said:
Your right. The face seal has two halves. My repair is holding up good too, though I only put 10 hours on it since then. What weight gear oil are you using?

I put 200 hours on the machine and everything is holding up fine on the motors. Now its random hose failures. Never ends!

siduramaxde · Nov 14, 2010

scsindust said:
I put 200 hours on the machine and everything is holding up fine on the motors. Now its random hose failures. Never ends!

UPDATE.....I have an internal leak on the drive motor I fixed already. While changing the hub oil I found hydraulic fluid in the hub instead of gear oil. Today, I tore the motor back out of the machine and I'm in the process of breaking the motor down to find the problem. I suspect a $10 seal failed..... BUMMER

Fishfiles · Nov 15, 2010

siduramaxde said:
UPDATE.....I have an internal leak on the drive motor I fixed already. While changing the hub oil I found hydraulic fluid in the hub instead of gear oil. Today, I tore the motor back out of the machine and I'm in the process of breaking the motor down to find the problem. I suspect a $10 seal failed..... BUMMER

I think I would check your case drain filters , it may have blown a seal from excessive back pressure

siduramaxde · Nov 19, 2010

Fishfiles said:
I think I would check your case drain filters , it may have blown a seal from excessive back pressure

I checked both case drain filters and both were clean. I have no idea why the seal failed. Now that I have the drive motor apart, the seal looks fine upon visual inspection. Does anyone know which way the seal is supposed to go in. Right now the seal is installed with the open area (you know the open area with the spring) toward the inside of the motor (the part or the motor that has hydraulic fluid in it). Should the seal be turned around. Is this axle seal subject to hydraulic pressure in the motor?

cnord · Mar 2, 2011

siduramaxde said:
I checked both case drain filters and both were clean. I have no idea why the seal failed. Now that I have the drive motor apart, the seal looks fine upon visual inspection. Does anyone know which way the seal is supposed to go in. Right now the seal is installed with the open area (you know the open area with the spring) toward the inside of the motor (the part or the motor that has hydraulic fluid in it). Should the seal be turned around. Is this axle seal subject to hydraulic pressure in the motor?

I know this is outdated by a few months, but the information is still good. In reply to siduramaxde, the shaft seal does go with the spring facing the inside of the motor. You always want the spring toward the pressure. I deal with these motors all day in and out, we rebuild them so if anyone has any questions let me know.

Parts info on track drive motors

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