Is hotwiring possible?

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RE my dead 763 (thread below), does the Kubota engine have and independent ECM or does it run through the controller? Is it possible to start the machine via a hotwire. If so, are there any special precautions necessary over a normal automotive hotwire?
 

Tazza

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Yes, it can be done.
Use a cable tie or something to hold the fuel shut off solenoid back, run a wire to the glow plugs then simply crank the engine.
Cut the tie when you need to stop.
Now with that it will allow you to RUN the machine, you will not be able to move as the park brake will be on, this can be by-passed too.
Its not the safest thing to do though, the safety devices are there for good reasons.
 

skidboy

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Yes, it can be done.
Use a cable tie or something to hold the fuel shut off solenoid back, run a wire to the glow plugs then simply crank the engine.
Cut the tie when you need to stop.
Now with that it will allow you to RUN the machine, you will not be able to move as the park brake will be on, this can be by-passed too.
Its not the safest thing to do though, the safety devices are there for good reasons.
Tazza You may want to remove your post.Giving that sort of advise leaves you wide open if an accident ocures.Playing with safety issues is very dangerous and the problem as I see it is if some people are given a choice of fixing a safety issue that costs money or bypassing the system,they will take the latter.My 2c worth
 

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Tazza You may want to remove your post.Giving that sort of advise leaves you wide open if an accident ocures.Playing with safety issues is very dangerous and the problem as I see it is if some people are given a choice of fixing a safety issue that costs money or bypassing the system,they will take the latter.My 2c worth
True, I just said it IS possible, i never said you should do it.
The way i figure it, the older machines do not have this *feature* and they are still essentially safe. He did state it was just to move it, not to keep running it.
 
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True, I just said it IS possible, i never said you should do it.
The way i figure it, the older machines do not have this *feature* and they are still essentially safe. He did state it was just to move it, not to keep running it.
Thanks for the info. With what a field service call would run, and the $$$$$ costs for anything "computer", if I can't get it running and on a trailer, I'd probably part it out rather then have it repaired.
 

Tazza

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Thanks for the info. With what a field service call would run, and the $$$$$ costs for anything "computer", if I can't get it running and on a trailer, I'd probably part it out rather then have it repaired.
As long as its not a G series or have hand controls, the parts for a 763 are reasonably priced. Its the later models that start to get a little scary when things break.
 
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As long as its not a G series or have hand controls, the parts for a 763 are reasonably priced. Its the later models that start to get a little scary when things break.
Unfortunately it is a "G".. I believe I have found what initiated the problem, The wiring on the brake solenoid got pinched between the control arm bar(s). The wiring shorted and fried, but was not readily visible on the bottom of the wire bundle. The problem does appear to have taken out the computer/controller. It also cooked the brake solenoid. I'm still working on getting it operational enough to move on to a trailer. I've got it running and bypassed the foot control solenoids so the bucket could be removed and not impede movement. Now with the brake solenoid, I'm obviously going to need a new solenoid. For running bypass wires to it, does anyone have a manual that can provide me with the current ratings to the load and hold wires which I am assuming are the white and red respectively. And yes I do realize the load will have to be run through a relay... Thanks.....
 

Fishfiles

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Unfortunately it is a "G".. I believe I have found what initiated the problem, The wiring on the brake solenoid got pinched between the control arm bar(s). The wiring shorted and fried, but was not readily visible on the bottom of the wire bundle. The problem does appear to have taken out the computer/controller. It also cooked the brake solenoid. I'm still working on getting it operational enough to move on to a trailer. I've got it running and bypassed the foot control solenoids so the bucket could be removed and not impede movement. Now with the brake solenoid, I'm obviously going to need a new solenoid. For running bypass wires to it, does anyone have a manual that can provide me with the current ratings to the load and hold wires which I am assuming are the white and red respectively. And yes I do realize the load will have to be run through a relay... Thanks.....
take the brake solinoid out , un do the two bolts which hold the brake solinoid's mounting plate to the chain case , lift the plate out and pull the wedge , bolt , spring assembly out and reassemble , you will have no parking brake and it will travel , take care
 

Tazza

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take the brake solinoid out , un do the two bolts which hold the brake solinoid's mounting plate to the chain case , lift the plate out and pull the wedge , bolt , spring assembly out and reassemble , you will have no parking brake and it will travel , take care
I doubt you fried anything, the entire circuit is all fused, check your fuses and relays before you go looking at a new controller. Start with the simple stuff.
 
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