New Guy with bobcat 742. machine wont move anymore :(

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Tazza

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i drained the hydro fluid and then checked the chain case fluid poped out the plug and pulled a sample of fluid i think i may need to change the fluid what is your thoughts
Yep, chain case needs cleaning out, that is water contamination.
As for the pump, it sounds like it may be worn. It is a big job, but if you take your time, hopefully it won't cost you too much.
You will need to pull the engine and remove the pump. If you want more details on this, you can look up my e-mail address and send me a message. Or we can try and walk through it on here.
 

tecboy2001

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Yep, chain case needs cleaning out, that is water contamination.
As for the pump, it sounds like it may be worn. It is a big job, but if you take your time, hopefully it won't cost you too much.
You will need to pull the engine and remove the pump. If you want more details on this, you can look up my e-mail address and send me a message. Or we can try and walk through it on here.
yep, that is what i was afraid of do you have any photos or a pdf guide on the tear down and rebuild for the pump? or the part # for a rebuild kit any tips or tricks would be helpful thanks
 

Tazza

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yep, that is what i was afraid of do you have any photos or a pdf guide on the tear down and rebuild for the pump? or the part # for a rebuild kit any tips or tricks would be helpful thanks
I'll have a pdf showing the innards, flick me an email and i'll send you a copy. I just need to find where it is :)
Get the pump open before you need a rebuild kit. You may be lucky enough to be able to flatten the wear plated with sandpaper and glass, no repair kit needed. You won't know till you open it up. BUT you must keep the parts from each pump seperate, don't mix them up. Do one side at a time or have a nice clear work area so they don't get mixed together. The wear plates are different, if you swap them over, the pump will not work.
 

antfarmer2

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I'll have a pdf showing the innards, flick me an email and i'll send you a copy. I just need to find where it is :)
Get the pump open before you need a rebuild kit. You may be lucky enough to be able to flatten the wear plated with sandpaper and glass, no repair kit needed. You won't know till you open it up. BUT you must keep the parts from each pump seperate, don't mix them up. Do one side at a time or have a nice clear work area so they don't get mixed together. The wear plates are different, if you swap them over, the pump will not work.
He is running thin hydro fluid could that be part of it?
 

Tazza

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He is running thin hydro fluid could that be part of it?
I thought i read that the issue was mostly one side, i'd like to think the fluid being used is not the issue.... It really does sound like marks on the wear plate to me. If it was the oil, i'd have thought it would have done both sides equally.
 

antfarmer2

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I thought i read that the issue was mostly one side, i'd like to think the fluid being used is not the issue.... It really does sound like marks on the wear plate to me. If it was the oil, i'd have thought it would have done both sides equally.
Ok still learning when you find the info could you send me a copy too
 

tecboy2001

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I thought i read that the issue was mostly one side, i'd like to think the fluid being used is not the issue.... It really does sound like marks on the wear plate to me. If it was the oil, i'd have thought it would have done both sides equally.
I pulled most all of the oil out and changed the filter replaced hydro fluid 32 with 15/40w oil it made ever so slight the difference in speed on the right side but the fluid i pulled out did smell as if it may have been burnt and was a really dark color
 

antfarmer2

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I pulled most all of the oil out and changed the filter replaced hydro fluid 32 with 15/40w oil it made ever so slight the difference in speed on the right side but the fluid i pulled out did smell as if it may have been burnt and was a really dark color
Time for Tazza I want to learn too hope I never need it but think I would have traded for the bearing and seal job
 

dm4453

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Aug 20, 2014
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On the left side, where the 3 hoses enter the block. Remove the middle hose and the fitting from the block. Behind here is a spring and a bronze filter. Not many people know about it, so its hardly ever changed. This is your suction line filter, it will cause the exact problems you are talking about.
Remove the filter and you can clean it with kerosene or de-greaser but they really aren't expensive to buy new.
Clean or replace that filter and let me know how you go. I had this exact same problem on my 731, it refused to turn or drive up hills when warm. Cleaned the filter and it FLEW up the hill and did dough nuts in the dirt with ease.
If you have any questions just let me know. I have probably been there... done that!
Thanks I will try this. The book shows a filter removal tool which looks like it screws on to a bolt. Do you need that
 

dm4453

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Are you talking about the bronze filter? ....what is your serial #
Yes the bronze one in the center on the port block. . No serial but we figured 12999 and below. Ford engine. Book says a filter removal tool but when looking at the post no one mentions it. Back and forth barely working so doing a full service including cleaning thar filter. What hydraulic oil do you like. I have used transdraulic in the past.
 

antfarmer2

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Yes the bronze one in the center on the port block. . No serial but we figured 12999 and below. Ford engine. Book says a filter removal tool but when looking at the post no one mentions it. Back and forth barely working so doing a full service including cleaning thar filter. What hydraulic oil do you like. I have used transdraulic in the past.
Best to start your own thread.......most use 10-30 or 10-40 don't need the tool just pull it out with the sleave
 
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