Thinking of getting a second hand Mustang for putting in silage blocks and general farm work, nothing too heavy. What models should I be looking at? Was thinking of 2040 (2044), 2050 (2054) or a 2060. Are these heavy enough for my purposes? What questions shuold I ask a vendor if looking at a machine? Thanks all.
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I don't know much about these machines but check the usual. Ensure it starts easily when the engine is stone cold, put your hand in the head or block to ensure it hasn't been started earlier that day. Look for smoke, its normal to smoke a little at startup but it should clear up quickly and should be white or black, blue is burning engine oil. Check the rams for leaks, pivot points for wear.
Those are just a few of the general points to look at. Work on hours too, a diesel engine will generally give you 6,000 hours before it needs a re-build. After that mark the compression is usually low and its harder to start.
Good luck with your purchase.
Those are just a few of the general points to look at. Work on hours too, a diesel engine will generally give you 6,000 hours before it needs a re-build. After that mark the compression is usually low and its harder to start.
Good luck with your purchase.
skidsteer.ca
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1st consideration is how much weight you need it to lift and how much room the machine will need to work if you want to use it in a building.
The models you mention (from memory) are pretty much middle size machines in the 1300 to1800 lb rated lift. They will run a wide range of attachments and meet most peoples need, they are also the easiest to resell The early mustangs had there own odd ball quick attach but I believe the models you mention are new enought to have the industry standard quick attach or "multi tach" I believe Mustang calls it. (which would be a big deal to me)
As or condition as Tazza says, pretty much the same wear and tear issues that apply to any machine.
Ken
The models you mention (from memory) are pretty much middle size machines in the 1300 to1800 lb rated lift. They will run a wide range of attachments and meet most peoples need, they are also the easiest to resell The early mustangs had there own odd ball quick attach but I believe the models you mention are new enought to have the industry standard quick attach or "multi tach" I believe Mustang calls it. (which would be a big deal to me)
As or condition as Tazza says, pretty much the same wear and tear issues that apply to any machine.
Ken
Cheers guys, appreciated.
2060 is going fine and doing all that is asked of it. However, it developed a 'noise' today when tilting the bucket forwards - rather scraping, grating sound which seems to come from the right-hand side of the machine and only when tilting. Performance, response, power etc. not affected. Nothing appears amiss on quick scrutiny. Any ideas?
You greased all the grease points? Hopefully its just a lack of grease noise.
skidsteer.ca
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Maybe try unhooking the rh tilt cylinder and plugging its hoses??
Makes no difference driving or just sitting still? Does it seem to matter if the engine is running fast or slow?
Its trying to tell you something. You have greased it? (hate to ask but.......)
Ken
Thanks again guys. Maybe it's just lack of grease, although I have only put up c. 20 hours on it thus far and it was fully greased when it arrived. No, engine revs doesn't seem to matter - however, it only seemed to occur after some time working, i.e. not at the start when cold. Anyway, will grease at the earliest and see if it improves... Another bugbear, engine is tardy to start on cold mornings. What is the correct heating sequence / procedure for cold starting? I don't have a manual for the machine so must look in ebay for same.....
Not sure if you have same engine as I do in my 2040 but there is a preheat button that you push for no more than 30 seconds after you turn the key on. My machine has a Yanmar and in instead of glow plugs ,it has a heating coil in the intake at the top of the intake. Preheats the air. easy to check to see its bad. Scott
Another little glitch with this one; another person was using it in my absence and cut the hydraulic hoses from the machine to the front grab, thus losing some hydraulic oil. Anyway, repaired the hoses and put back in some oil. However, the machine is a little slow to get hydraulic function (lifting / tilting) after start-up, it works fine after a minute or so of warm-up, but it also stalls momentarily on occasion. Also, the grab won't open or close without first toggling the little rocker switch in front of the seat, and this also stalls sometimes. Could these problems be because of the mixture of oils used (even though the oil I put back in is perfectly acceptable for the Mustang)? I didn't top it up fully with oil according to the line of sight gauge inside the rear door - should I? Also, what is SOP for the hydraulic rocker switch in front of the seat - switched towards the rear with the amber light lit or towards the front, in which case an auxiliary (?) seems to be activated ? I need to toggle this switch to get the grab working, whereas I didn't before. Many TIA, Mike.
How long has it been doing this for? hopefully its simply air stuck in the system causing these issues. Over time it should bleed out and the functions should return to normal. The oil shouldn't be a problem either, I'm sure you didn't loose a great deal of oil in the first place.
Sorry i can't help with the other questions.
My aux is just a simple lever no rocker. I would make sure it's filled up to the middle of the sight glass but Tazza is probably right about the air in system. It will probably work it's way out. Scott
Thanks for the replies, gents. The momentary ceasing of function seems to have abated now. However, yet another problem seems to have arisen :-( Upon startup, normally both the arm lock switch and brake switches should show green, indicating that the machine is safe to use. However the latter rocker switch doesn't illuminate straight away and sometimes takes a minute or more to light up, I may even have to stop and restart the engine a couple of times for it to light. The odd time also, it lights off during operation for a moment or two. Possible solutions? The machine is fully topped up with hydraulic oil but I suspect that the existing oil and newly-added oil may not have blended properly (different viscosity?). Am I correct or is this a newbie question??!!
skidsteer.ca
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The oil should mix in 10 minutes of operation. How cold is it where your are?
Sometimes snow and ice, or moisture freezes and causes grief. If these switch light are dependant on the hydraulic system, and its cold, and you added thick oil?, it may need a minute to warm up. Just a possibility.
Sorry not familiar with your machine.
Ken
If i understood your post correctly, its your brake light that does not come on? It could simply be a sticky park brake solenoid.
I too can't be much use as i don't know these machines either. As Ken said, the oils will mix together quite fast, so it won't be your problem.
One rocker activates a parking break, one unlocks your hyd . When the light flashes, does the machine react in any way?
The brakes will come on if you lose hydralic pressure or power to the manifold valve. When the rocker is green, it energizes solenoid valve which allows flow through the manifold to actuators in the chain case. The brakes aren't friction but are metal dogs that rotate in and out of slots in a disk behind the drive sprocket in the chain case. Pressurize the actuator and it pulls the dog away from the disk. Relieve the pressure and the brakes are locked.
I'm thinking if you get no reaction when the light flashes maybe it is just a bad light in the rocker and it may be separate from the energizing circuit to the solenoid.I'm not sure that the rocker works that way. My rocker show orange when not energized and green when it is. Scott
Cold isn't a problem as it isn't too bad round here. To restate the problem, for a while after starting the engine, I have no hydraulic power - it usually takes nearly 10 minutes for it to come on. Both rocker switches should show green when working normally and red when switched to 'safe mode'. When the problems occur, only the switch controlling the boom is green, the switch that works the wheel brake is not illuminated even though it is in the 'on' position. It illuminates when hydraulic power is restored. Occasionally during use it darks out for a minute or two also - most annoying! Anyway, rang up a dealer and he suggested that the source of problem lies with the control module and advised replacing it (and in fairness they have a lot of experience with these). Not too difficult to swap out but cost of thing could run to nearly 500 euro. Anyway of proving that the problem is with this module? Any way of patching up existing module? TIA, Mike.
From what I can see in the schematic (2040/2050), the lights are just in the switches. There is no feedback from anything to the lights in the park and lock switches. So, if the lights are intermittent, it is most likely the bulb, or the switch itself (bad contact - harness - etc.) It's a pain they put the light right into the switches, would have been better to have a separate light panel, with regular switches. That way, one could replace the bulbs when switches are still good...
PS. Faulty control module should not affect lights in switches (they are basically indicator bulbs), but faulty switches may affect how the control module responds.