You can change them without dumping all the fluid. Some will leak out, but the hoses are small so it will go slowly.
Want to buy a t180 or t190
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calypso428
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Hey guys , Here's the latest ... I've noticed a high pitched chirp coming from the front right side idler over the past two weeks . Today I was stacking and burning brush and I noticed it getting louder and eventually started making a sort of grinding noise ... I got out and felt the sides of the idler and it was very warm to the touch ... sooo bearing must be gone and I need a new idler assembly . I found them on ebay for 345$ shipped . Which of the brands is best ? They are all about the same price . Also what's the best way to loosen the tension from the track without the mel 1560 bleeder tool ? Is this a tough job over all ? Just lift the right side up, place jack stands , bleed and release tension , remove front of track , pull out the old assembly and slide in new ? Any tips appreciated ! Thanks
calypso428
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http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xbobcat+t190+front+idler&_nkw=bobcat+t190+front+idler&_sacat=0 I'm kind of leaning towards the prowler brand ... what about the ones with the holes in them ? They are cheaper but I'm assuming not as sturdy ?
reaperman
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To release tension from the track. I've always just removed the grease zerk, and yes the grease will come flying out. Be prepared to have a full tube on hand to pump back in if you decide to do it this way.
It helps to have a paper cup handy to catch the grease. I just remove the zerk, too.
7LBSSMALLIE
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so she be still up and running good for you my man. did we ever get codes? did we change outer hub lube. or we just gonna run it? welcome to first unexpected 500 dollar hit. aftermarket drive comonpents will serve you well. but if you got the track off change outer hub oil.
calypso428
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Yes 7LBS shes still rocking and rolling ... I looked up the past 30 codes that were available just from the computer history and it was mainly codes pertaining to engine battery voltage. The guy I bought it from had to jump it off when I got it so I assumed it was an old battery. Turned out to be the original bobcat brand battery. I replaced it with a brand new one , problem solved. Another code it has a lot in the history is for drive motors not calibrated and speed sensors not calibrated. Apparently its had new drive motors installed but it was never calibrated .
Now im having a new problem . I got in it the other morning and it was cold , well cold for Georgia it was 30 degrees... I started her up let it warm for about 4-5 mins and pressed the green ptol button and ...... The bucket light flashed and went off... ACS light came on and a message about the lift actuator not working... ughhhhhh
I popped the cab and located the wiring harnesses for both , unhooked them , cleaned them up a little, shook them around a little , cursed a little, and put it all back . Fired it back up and BOOM , it worked loader was just fine. Soooo probably a future problem ???
Yes you will be buying actuators at some point. The motor inside them develops a bad spot just like a starter. It starts out as a minor annoyance and gets worse overtime. They're about $600 a piece.
calypso428
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Good lord have mercy I got the new front idler and the track back on successfuly... what a B**** . That was not fun at all. But at least I know how to do it now. OK on to the next item on my checklist . The case drain filters . I have the filters and I want to buy a couple of hydro line screw cap plugs so I don't lose a bunch of fluid ... what size do I need and where do I buy them ?
calypso428
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I have one more question I want to run past you guys. This past week I got in my new 60” CID Xtreme brush mower. I hooked it up and it works like a charm in one direction. But when I let it stop rotating and press the aux hydro switch to the other direction, I can see pressure build up on the hoses and the pto next to the gear box wants to spin but it just will not spin freely in the other direction ... Im worried it has something to do with my aux system on the 180 but its like it tries to spin it and in the other direction it works great . Ive been cutting down trees like as thick as your thigh with it ...
I don't have my grapple in yet so theres no way I can test it with another attachment to see if its the mower or my aux hydraulics sticking on the machine ... Also when I engage the pto there is a squealing sound that comes from the gear box of mower until it reaches full speed like its straining from the pressure ... maybe that's normal IDK
Brush cutters are designed to run only one direction, perfectly normal. Oil only flows one way threw the cutter's vavle block. You can reverse it by switching the hoses around going to the motor. You would do this if your blades are double side so you could then cut on the fresh side once the other is beat up. Also with your bobcat, you really only want to continuously flow out the default way when you pull the finger trigger. You can lock reverse flow by moving the thumb switch to do so and then lock it by pulling trigger. In normal flow direction, return oil goes to the cooler, not so in reverse.
reaperman
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The brush cutter we have at work also squeals when getting up to speed and squeals louder when it slows down. Its been that way for years so it must be normal.
calypso428
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Hey thanks for the advice guys. I called tech support at CID today . They said that in order to run in the other direction to switch the hoses at the hydro motor. Also some steal is perfectly normal when engaging the aux and especially if you do this at higher than idle engine rpm. Ran the machine at full throttle for 4 hours today and cleaned a fence line covered with privet hedge and smallish trees up to 8 inches in diameter . Both attachment and machine were VERY impressive . The new idler works like a charm too. Thanks for everyone's help getting this T180 going !!
calypso428
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Well I'm going to have to bite the bullet and replace the lift actuator . I've got it narrowed down and I know it's the lift and that it's the original . The tilt actuator looks much newer and I'm assuming whoever had the machine before me had to replace it and it was just a matter of time until I'd have to replace the lift actuator ... what's the best way to get to these 3/16 allen bolts ? There's an access plate of the side of the machine I could remove and it might help ... going to order one from the dealer in the next few days . This one's giving me fits intermittently.
The side panel is no help on a track machine. The lift is the bottom one so it is a little funner to get at. I have luck with some I was able to get at with removing anything else. Others I had to pull the steer council out for access. Do you know exactly what code you are getting? If you are getting an out of neutral code, that can actually be the spool centering spring being kity wumpish, not the acturator. Also when you change it, you need to calibrate it. There is a field calibrate outlined in the service manual. Personally I never did it that way since I used my service computer to do it. If you are already going $600 into it, a dealer shouldn't charge more then an hour to change it. If I don't have to rip a bunch of stuff out to do it, I can change one in about 15 minutes not including calibrating.
calypso428
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Ok so here's the latest guys ... I went to bobcat of Greenville sc. Today and bought a shiny new actuator to the tune of 770$ ... my plan is to check the software version on my skid steer , check the codes I'm pulling on the machine associated with the actuator , and replace my lift act with the new one ... then take it to nearest dealer in ga and have them calibrate and update software for me ... am I missing anything ??? Thanks . Tee
Sounds like a good plan. Hopefully the calibration from the dealer won't be too expensive.
calypso428
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Here are the ACTIVE codes that were flashing across the hour meter this morning when the lift actuator stopped working again :
75-72- drive pump not calibrated
75-73- operating mode switch flipped while operating
32-36- ACS/AHS Lift actuator fault- this is the main one
75-93- unresponsive right speed sensor
75-94- unresponsive left speed sensor
Here are some codes from the recent history list I found in the menus on right hand side... Some of them sound pretty serious but have never come up while I was operating or caused any sort of problem. Whats your take on these ??? Im worried ...
31-28- interrupted power
3-22- battery voltage out of range low
3-09-battery voltage low
3-22- “ “ “
39-13- left CAN joystick grip no comm
40-13- right “ “ “ “
75-04- No comm from drive controller- this one worried me
31-28- interrupted power
I have a brand new battery and clean terminals ... Could I have a short?
Thanks
calypso428
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I took a closer look at the code list in the history and they were from over 20 hours ago since before I had the machine. No such code has come up since I've had it so I'm assuming those problems were addressed by the previous owner and his shop. The version firmware shown on my unit when I pressed the bucket position key and held it was 81.1 so it's probably the most recent version or near to it as I can tell . Just for kicks this morning after warming up I tried to use the lift and the lift actuator warning appeared again . So I turned the unit off and performed the manual calibration procedure as outlined in the manual . I could hear the actuators calibrate . Then I started the machine and the lift has worked flawlessly all morning . It also doesn't seem to be quite as touchy on the up and down motion , smoother. Maybe it just needed calibration?Lucky?
calypso428
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Not so lucky ... I got home from work and started it up and again with the damn lift actuator . So I bit the bullet and swapped out the new one I bought for the old one . Took me about 45 minutes as it was the bottom actuator which made it a little more difficult to get to those allen screws. I ended up removing the side plate and since I have long arms was able to run my left arm around through that opening and use my hand to sort of "see" what I was doing and guide the end of the tool into the allen bolt. It worked well enough . Followed the instructions and tightened them evenly so as not to torque the actuator . Following installation I went back through the calibration procedure and for now everything is working flawlessly .
