T250 Error code 14-03

[DHG07777]

I am new to the forums and did a little searching to help with self diagnosis on my Fuel Pressure Shutoff issue but im kinda stuck. My T250 will try to start, turns over about 3 times and then (click) Shuts off with an error code 14-03. I have to turn off keypad and try to start again, but it does the same thing. couple things i tried 1. Swapped out fuel relay 2. I have power going to relay, but nothing going out ? 3. I have 6V at my fuel shutoff solenoid 4. Check all fuses and connections in the fuse panel, I actually pulled it out as well. Little background, Never had this issue before. But last week before i took it in to get the 1000HR Maintenance done, i pressure washed it. , it worked fine for a week and sat for few days. We swapped out the cab bolt/bushings with new ones, and had the cab up while it rained once. I am thinking its a ground somewhere, but im not sure Any advice would be awesome, maybe i missed something simple Thanks Don

 

[DHG07777]

I did a little more testing. The T250 sitting down for awhile has got to me We went back and traced some wires and think whatever tells the fuel relay to flip is not working. Basically, we have 12V coming to the fuel relay ( large red wire) . Black Ground 2 Off White wires going to the Fuel Solenoid 1 off white wire marked 8110 I am thinking that what ever signals the 8110 wire to close is not doing it. Also, I noticed, when I have the connector on the fuel solenoid it doesn't have any volts going to it. But if I remove the plug and test it,, 1 wire has 6 volts.

 

[Tazza]

I did a little more testing. The T250 sitting down for awhile has got to me We went back and traced some wires and think whatever tells the fuel relay to flip is not working. Basically, we have 12V coming to the fuel relay ( large red wire) . Black Ground 2 Off White wires going to the Fuel Solenoid 1 off white wire marked 8110 I am thinking that what ever signals the 8110 wire to close is not doing it. Also, I noticed, when I have the connector on the fuel solenoid it doesn't have any volts going to it. But if I remove the plug and test it,, 1 wire has 6 volts.

I assume you have ensured the ralays are good? you said power is going in, but not out.....
The 6v may just be a sensing voltage so it knows if the coil is open circuit or short to give an error on the dash.
What happens if you remove the connector, hook the black wire to ground and with a wire from the +ve battery terminal, touch the white and red one at a time, one is pull the other is hold. Which ever one snaps the solenoid back is the pull. If you power the hold and brush the +ve wire over the pull it should pull back and stick till you disconnect the hold.
This way you know for sure your solenoid is good.

 

[DHG07777]

I assume you have ensured the ralays are good? you said power is going in, but not out.....
The 6v may just be a sensing voltage so it knows if the coil is open circuit or short to give an error on the dash.
What happens if you remove the connector, hook the black wire to ground and with a wire from the +ve battery terminal, touch the white and red one at a time, one is pull the other is hold. Which ever one snaps the solenoid back is the pull. If you power the hold and brush the +ve wire over the pull it should pull back and stick till you disconnect the hold.
This way you know for sure your solenoid is good.

I am back and Running. It ended up being the Controller Module (brains). There was a power wire to the Controller module that shorted out, it caused the controller to not to signal the Solenoid. I spend several days testing each wire in the fuel circuit and everything passed, so it led me to the controller. Controller is a OEM only swap in part, they have to program it. I learned a lot about schematics through this whole ordeal. But still needed bobcats help. next time, I think I could be of good help to someone if they get this error code. we are so happy to get this back up , I don't think i could do without it. Regards Don

 

[Ewadepat]

I am back and Running. It ended up being the Controller Module (brains). There was a power wire to the Controller module that shorted out, it caused the controller to not to signal the Solenoid. I spend several days testing each wire in the fuel circuit and everything passed, so it led me to the controller. Controller is a OEM only swap in part, they have to program it. I learned a lot about schematics through this whole ordeal. But still needed bobcats help. next time, I think I could be of good help to someone if they get this error code. we are so happy to get this back up , I don't think i could do without it. Regards Don

Don, this same scenario has happened to by bobcat. Did you have to get a different controller?

 

[isoscell]

Don, this same scenario has happened to by bobcat. Did you have to get a different controller?

Hi, your controller can be repaired. Repair time 1 day. 1 year warranty.
Visit www.isoscell.com for request repair. Thank you

 

[chopper]

Don, this same scenario has happened to by bobcat. Did you have to get a different controller?

So was it the power wire or the brains that shorted out?

 

[chopper]

I am new to the forums and did a little searching to help with self diagnosis on my Fuel Pressure Shutoff issue but im kinda stuck. My T250 will try to start, turns over about 3 times and then (click) Shuts off with an error code 14-03. I have to turn off keypad and try to start again, but it does the same thing. couple things i tried 1. Swapped out fuel relay 2. I have power going to relay, but nothing going out ? 3. I have 6V at my fuel shutoff solenoid 4. Check all fuses and connections in the fuse panel, I actually pulled it out as well. Little background, Never had this issue before. But last week before i took it in to get the 1000HR Maintenance done, i pressure washed it. , it worked fine for a week and sat for few days. We swapped out the cab bolt/bushings with new ones, and had the cab up while it rained once. I am thinking its a ground somewhere, but im not sure Any advice would be awesome, maybe i missed something simple Thanks Don

You've got to not let it rain on anything electrical or mechanical, They are seeding the clouds with heavy metal nanoparticles which get into the connections and cause power interuptions. In conjunction with directed microwaves It apparently affects electronics as well. You notice it mostly after big swings in temperature where the moisture residual from aerosols sink to surface at night and cooling condenses on contacts, and locks and moving parts which cause temporary binding effects until it gets broken by disassembly or forced operation. Usually an acrid odor to morning air and slight haze a day or so before the problem arises.

 

[GFence]

Hey guys which controller are you referring to ? Do you have a part # or description ? I look up my parts catalogue for my A300 and see 3 different controllers ? 1 @engine electrical #6678673, 1 @electrical controls kit #6678675, & 1 @controls electrical #6683608 controller joystick (probably not).
Also I think mine might've been ruined from a loose battery connection, causing constant spark/heat/etc... ?