T190 lift spool leak

[Philosaw]

I have a foot controll t190 with about 2500 hrs. I recently noticed a small leak so I pulled it into the shop and took a look. With a mirror I could see the leek dripping from the back side of the BICS valve. It shows up at the bottom of the lift spool, but I'm not positive that it's not coming from the relief valve right above it, though seems unlikely. I've had the whole valve body out before and didn't really enjoy the job. It looks like I could possibly pull the spool without removing the valve. Is it worth the effort, or should I just go ahead and remove it?

 

[Tazza]

I'm pretty sure you can do the job with the valve in the machine still, it's not fun but easier than pulling the control block.

 

[farmshop]

I'm pretty sure you can do the job with the valve in the machine still, it's not fun but easier than pulling the control block.

On older g series you just pulled the spool. Just make sure cup seals go in right way. We had a dealer try to sell us a New valve because the put the seals in backwards 3 times

 

[Philosaw]

On older g series you just pulled the spool. Just make sure cup seals go in right way. We had a dealer try to sell us a New valve because the put the seals in backwards 3 times

Thanks for the input guys! I started in and disconnected the front end this evening after work. I began thinking about the little problem we've been having with a sticky pedal on the lift mechanism and things started making sense. I'm now thinking that the sticking pedal was a bad o-ring and that the leak is just a further sign of the problem. It will be interesting to see the spool condition when I slide them out.

 

[Bobcatdan]

Thanks for the input guys! I started in and disconnected the front end this evening after work. I began thinking about the little problem we've been having with a sticky pedal on the lift mechanism and things started making sense. I'm now thinking that the sticking pedal was a bad o-ring and that the leak is just a further sign of the problem. It will be interesting to see the spool condition when I slide them out.

I always reseal the vavle in the machine. The variable is what needs to be moved to pull the spool out. The fuel filler neck or driver motor hoses may have to moved as the spool has to come out straight. The tilt spool is pretty simple. The lift spool is more complicated because of the detent. There is a C clip on the end of the cap. Remove it and carefully remove it after the bolts are removed. Once that's off, don't disturb anything eles on the spool until on the bench. Under the end piece is the wonder god damn it balls for the detent. Other then that make sure you put the seals in right. Your pedal sticking is probably the pedal itself or the piviot point for the cross bar in the linkage. The vavle normally isn't the cause unless you find detent and centering spring very rusty.

 

[Philosaw]

I always reseal the vavle in the machine. The variable is what needs to be moved to pull the spool out. The fuel filler neck or driver motor hoses may have to moved as the spool has to come out straight. The tilt spool is pretty simple. The lift spool is more complicated because of the detent. There is a C clip on the end of the cap. Remove it and carefully remove it after the bolts are removed. Once that's off, don't disturb anything eles on the spool until on the bench. Under the end piece is the wonder god damn it balls for the detent. Other then that make sure you put the seals in right. Your pedal sticking is probably the pedal itself or the piviot point for the cross bar in the linkage. The vavle normally isn't the cause unless you find detent and centering spring very rusty.

Thanks for the input BCD. Yesterday I had a few minutes to work on it, and was excited because it seemed pretty easy. I had previously removed the caps and had the spools ready to come out but had to save the next move for later. When I grabbed the lift spool it slid out easily until it ran into a plastic stack which appears to come off the fuel tank...Grrrrr. It now looks like I'm back to removing the entire unit or at least getting it to the point where it can be rotated a bit, which means I might as well go all the way and pull it. It does look like if I were to remove the detent assembly, it could slide out the other way, but the thought of trying to reassemble it down there leaves me cold.

 

[Bobcatdan]

Thanks for the input BCD. Yesterday I had a few minutes to work on it, and was excited because it seemed pretty easy. I had previously removed the caps and had the spools ready to come out but had to save the next move for later. When I grabbed the lift spool it slid out easily until it ran into a plastic stack which appears to come off the fuel tank...Grrrrr. It now looks like I'm back to removing the entire unit or at least getting it to the point where it can be rotated a bit, which means I might as well go all the way and pull it. It does look like if I were to remove the detent assembly, it could slide out the other way, but the thought of trying to reassemble it down there leaves me cold.

It should come past. I have resealed countless T190's and never removed or even loosened the entire vavle.

 

[Philosaw]

It should come past. I have resealed countless T190's and never removed or even loosened the entire vavle.

I sure wish it could! It runs smack into a plastic tower like structure that i believe is part of the fuel tank but whatever, it's immovable with another 8 to10 inches before I'm free.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

I sure wish it could! It runs smack into a plastic tower like structure that i believe is part of the fuel tank but whatever, it's immovable with another 8 to10 inches before I'm free.

BCD nailed it''' gneraly gets guoted at 3 hrs $ 20 .00 parts. most times quicker. but than those times bcd spoke of where you gotta move stuff to extact spool. or when you pull it down lift spool detent cap is rusted etc.. hence the reason quoting a job is next to impossible prior to tear down. yea shit happens unit ran in salt? jimmy joe blow worked on it? who knows? if you do it yourself ask for tips and tricks on lift spool plastic plug and oring and how to install. detent balls whitout chasining across the shop.

 

[Philosaw]

BCD nailed it''' gneraly gets guoted at 3 hrs $ 20 .00 parts. most times quicker. but than those times bcd spoke of where you gotta move stuff to extact spool. or when you pull it down lift spool detent cap is rusted etc.. hence the reason quoting a job is next to impossible prior to tear down. yea shit happens unit ran in salt? jimmy joe blow worked on it? who knows? if you do it yourself ask for tips and tricks on lift spool plastic plug and oring and how to install. detent balls whitout chasining across the shop.

All in all, the job wasn't as bad as it could have been. I even managed to keep from releasing the ball and springs which is something dreaded in all types of mechanics. No leaks, and back to work until the next adventure!

 

[mmsllc]

All in all, the job wasn't as bad as it could have been. I even managed to keep from releasing the ball and springs which is something dreaded in all types of mechanics. No leaks, and back to work until the next adventure!

Good job man!! We are almost done with our # 751, when we noticed a good sized brown O-ring (1 out of 5) slipped out of position from between the two halves of the valve. We were just about to add hyd fluid to check for leaks when that o-ring was found. Looking back, I wished we had moved everything out of the way & replaced those seals with the valve still in the machine. Man, what a pain this job has become. I'm glad that you had better luck, though. ROCK ON!!