Starting Problems

[Scavenger]

The more I try to find out why my 1845C will not start most of the time, the more I come across posts that basically state that the reason for this is because of bad connections. I was earlier told by a member of this forum that the problem could also be related to a bad ignition switch. I purchased a new keyed ignition switch and after installing it, the loader started 2 times in a row, then on the third attempt it was click, click, click as usual. So now, I plan on re-wiring everything starter related in the event I may have a fatigued cable or wire doing the intermittent thing. I am also going to replace all ground cable connections....another biggy I guess. Anyways, I am searching for information about a modification that some had done that takes care of the no start condition. Evidently a relay/solenoid is wired in between the ignition switch and the starter. I guess this is supposed to supply more starting current than the way the starter is originally wired. Does anyone know about this modification, and could possibly provide me with a part number for a relay/solenoid, and provide details on how it should be wired up..................thanks

 

[goose]

Your problem is fairly common with the 1800 series. I havw had customers replace the starter, battery, switch and or harness and still have the problem. The engage side of the starter is very sensitive to low voltage. You can replace a lot of parts and maybe make it better for awhile or in stall what I call a booster relay and solve the problem for under $30.00 Go to your local auto parts store and ask for a 3 post starter relay for an older Ford truck. Mount the relay to the engine mount channel right in front of the starter. There is already one 5/16 hole in the back side to mount the relay. you can drill a second hole if you want but I ususally dont bother, one bolt holds the little relay fine. Remove the small wire that activates the starter from the starter and hook it to the small post on the add on relay. Make up a 10 gauge wire and run it from one of the bigger posts on the relay to the post were the small activater wire was removed from the starter. Make up another 10 gauge wire and run it from the other big post on the relay and hook it up to the battery post on the starter. When you go into start you will be activating the add on relay and sending full voltage to the starter to activate it. The Case part # I use at work is A77311 just in case you have a dealer close.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

First off where is the starter solenoid and have you tried changing that. Because that is the most common cause of that symptom.
If you have rebuilt the starter or change the solenoid, will it reliably crank the engine if you jump the solenoid?
Ken

 

[skidsteer.ca]

First off where is the starter solenoid and have you tried changing that. Because that is the most common cause of that symptom.
If you have rebuilt the starter or change the solenoid, will it reliably crank the engine if you jump the solenoid?
Ken

Goose was hard at work for you just a minute before my last post and it sounds like he has been there on this one, recomending you follow his advice.
Ken