Snow Plow Connection?

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de03x7

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I got a screaming deal on an 8’ Fisher snow plow with the Minute Mount 2 mounting system and plan to mount it to my 743. The plow is missing the electric motor for the hydraulics so I would like to use the auxiliary from my Bobcat to operate it. I have not used the auxiliary for anything besides draining the system to change the fluid after I bought the machine last spring. I am at a loss as how to hook up hoses to make this work. Do I need to hook the hoses to the existing valve body on the plow somehow and then use the plow controller to angle left and right and to raise and lower the plow? Do I need to take the lift cylinder out and replace it with a solid bar then use the arms on the machine to raise and lower? Would I hook one hose to the right cylinder and one to the left or do I need a valve body of some sort to run them through? Thanks for any help anyone can give me on this.
 
take the plow itself off of the frame that attaches to the truck, so its just like how pre minute mount plows used to be. sell the frame. get a solid bobtach plate and weld a couple ears to it. hydraulics you will need a couple hydraulic releif valves because the PSI of the bobcat hydraulics is way too much for a plow, it's realllllllly fast. it should look like this when its done http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/grq/3326676100.html
5Ia5N95F23Ia3Ne3l4ca9bc977a1481eb15ae.jpg
 
take the plow itself off of the frame that attaches to the truck, so its just like how pre minute mount plows used to be. sell the frame. get a solid bobtach plate and weld a couple ears to it. hydraulics you will need a couple hydraulic releif valves because the PSI of the bobcat hydraulics is way too much for a plow, it's realllllllly fast. it should look like this when its done http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/grq/3326676100.html
just run one hose to left, one to right, no valve body needed. If you use regular plow hose it is small enough to slow it down a little but still will be very fast unless you put flow control in the lines. You can retain the spring trip by making the lower a frame pivot on the q a and replacing the upper one in the picture with a chain back to the quick attach. depends on what else you plan to push with it.
 
just run one hose to left, one to right, no valve body needed. If you use regular plow hose it is small enough to slow it down a little but still will be very fast unless you put flow control in the lines. You can retain the spring trip by making the lower a frame pivot on the q a and replacing the upper one in the picture with a chain back to the quick attach. depends on what else you plan to push with it.
Thanks for the replies. I had in my head that one line was supply and the other a return. I guess that is only if it is locked all the way over. I will head to the hyd shop later this week and see if I can get everything to hook this up.
 
Thanks for the replies. I had in my head that one line was supply and the other a return. I guess that is only if it is locked all the way over. I will head to the hyd shop later this week and see if I can get everything to hook this up.
Most Fisher plow systems use ATF for the working fluid. That may not be compatible with whatever is in your skid. I'd drain all hoses and cylinders completely and fill with the same fluid you use in your skid prior to hooking it up.
Here's how I did mine:
http://personalpages.tds.net/~thompson_wp/bobcat/bobcatplow.htm
Note that the function of the cross-over relief valve is standard issue on most truck plow systems to prevent damage by allowing the plow to swing around if high forces are encountered. The function is actually built-in to the Fisher control valve. It will not be available for your skid unless you specifically add it.
Rod
 
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