skid steer info

[Jaker65]

hello all, im new to this forum and im hoping i can get some advice on my skid steer i have. Me and my brother have bought a old Scat Trak Skid steer. so far with a little TLC the machine has been pretty good to us. its done a fair amount of odd jobs and keeps goin. I have a few questions on it though.
1. What kind of hydraulic oil do us best recommended for the Pennsylvania climate?
2. are parts still available for this machine and where could i get them?
3. the glow plugs on this machine went out on it, sounded like only 1 was firing out of the 4 on the kubota engine. they look to be original, what could cause these to go bad?
I have had some bad luck with glow plugs especially in the my cub cadet tractor. seems every time I put them in the tractor I have to buy news ones at 40 dollars a piece and they wont even last beyond the 1st time you try them....so I really want to be sure as to why they are blowing out on my skid steer and not have to keep buying them like on my tractor.
I should mention also that the engine in the skid steer engine is a kubota V1902, and the glow plugs are NGK Y106V. Ihave 4 new ones on the way, i just want to make sure i dont blow them as well. thanks for all and any help!

 

[Tazza]

Make sure your glow relay is not sticking on. The thing that burns them out is running them too long. A 30-60 second glow is fine, but leaving them running, especially with the engine running they will burn out.
I'd check your tractor and ensure they are not being left on some how, thats the only way they should fail. On my older bobcats they don't have an automatic glow timer, glow to the left for 20 or so seconds, then turn top the right to start. The plugs turn off when i release the key.

 

[Jaker65]

Make sure your glow relay is not sticking on. The thing that burns them out is running them too long. A 30-60 second glow is fine, but leaving them running, especially with the engine running they will burn out.
I'd check your tractor and ensure they are not being left on some how, thats the only way they should fail. On my older bobcats they don't have an automatic glow timer, glow to the left for 20 or so seconds, then turn top the right to start. The plugs turn off when i release the key.

thanks for the info on that. i am sure that they are turning off as like your bobcat, you turn the key one way for the glow plugs and then turn the other way to start it. other than that like you said there shouldn't be much to make them go bad. now on my tractor they have a self timer on them. any time you go to start the tractor the glow plugs automatically come on, even if the engine is hot. so i decided to rig up my own system with a push button to turn the plugs on and off, with just the basic 2 wires, one wire coming from the pos side of the battery to the push button and then to the glow plugs and wouldn't you know it, that burned them out as well, maybe something inside the head is touching the elements on the glow plugs? oh probably should have said that the engine in the tractor is a Mitsubishi 3 cylinder engine..

 

[Tazza]

thanks for the info on that. i am sure that they are turning off as like your bobcat, you turn the key one way for the glow plugs and then turn the other way to start it. other than that like you said there shouldn't be much to make them go bad. now on my tractor they have a self timer on them. any time you go to start the tractor the glow plugs automatically come on, even if the engine is hot. so i decided to rig up my own system with a push button to turn the plugs on and off, with just the basic 2 wires, one wire coming from the pos side of the battery to the push button and then to the glow plugs and wouldn't you know it, that burned them out as well, maybe something inside the head is touching the elements on the glow plugs? oh probably should have said that the engine in the tractor is a Mitsubishi 3 cylinder engine..

I'd doubt they would touch, i wonder if its your injectors? if it has pre-combustion chambers, i was pretty sure the spray from the injector just hits the side of the glow plug. Its enclosed in the chamber so it can't touch anything.
It can't be so simple as the glow plugs are the wrong voltage? Even with the automatic timer, they shouldn't be on long enough to burn up.
Do they have impact marks on them? or just burnt up?

 

[Jaker65]

I'd doubt they would touch, i wonder if its your injectors? if it has pre-combustion chambers, i was pretty sure the spray from the injector just hits the side of the glow plug. Its enclosed in the chamber so it can't touch anything.
It can't be so simple as the glow plugs are the wrong voltage? Even with the automatic timer, they shouldn't be on long enough to burn up.
Do they have impact marks on them? or just burnt up?

im not sure if this engine has precombustion chambers on it or not..i can check with the kubota dealer and see if the v1902 engine came with them or not. i think you may have hit the nail on the head there with the injectors. with a bad spray pattern im sure that could be a problem. i know on my cat D4 i can test them on the machine to check the spray patter, am i able to do this same test on this engine? maybe i should consider replacing them before i install the new glow plugs... im not sure if they could be the wrong voltage or not on my cub cadet, ive tested the voltage coming from the wires and its a steady 12 volts every time you turn the key. and they only stay on for about 5 seconds on 1st start up, but after its about 2 seconds. i even checked and made sure that they dont have over voltage goin to them. i have even made sure that they are not kickin on when the engine is running. all checks out good. when you pull the plugs, there is no impact marks at all, just burnt up. the tractor only has 275 hours on it from when i 1st got it about 7 years ago.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I'd doubt they would touch, i wonder if its your injectors? if it has pre-combustion chambers, i was pretty sure the spray from the injector just hits the side of the glow plug. Its enclosed in the chamber so it can't touch anything.
It can't be so simple as the glow plugs are the wrong voltage? Even with the automatic timer, they shouldn't be on long enough to burn up.
Do they have impact marks on them? or just burnt up?

try www.sparkplugs.com next time, the 553 ones cost me $8 something each for ngk.
Ken

 

[Tazza]

try www.sparkplugs.com next time, the 553 ones cost me $8 something each for ngk.
Ken

The V1902 is indirect injection, the old plugs are probably just worn from use.

 

[Jaker65]

The V1902 is indirect injection, the old plugs are probably just worn from use.

Thanks for the quick responses guys, this site is really starting to help me learn more about my skid steer. i got the plugs today and they sure are pretty lol makes me want to think about making some jewelry out of them haha, i was also wondering, what type of hydraulic oil is best recommended for this machine? would SAE 30 weight hydraulic oil workfor this machine?

 

[Tazza]

Thanks for the quick responses guys, this site is really starting to help me learn more about my skid steer. i got the plugs today and they sure are pretty lol makes me want to think about making some jewelry out of them haha, i was also wondering, what type of hydraulic oil is best recommended for this machine? would SAE 30 weight hydraulic oil workfor this machine?

I don't know what they recommend, but most, if not all hydrostatic machines are happy to run 30 weight, just standard engine oil works. If it gets really cold where you are, you may need thinner oil.

 

[Jaker65]

I don't know what they recommend, but most, if not all hydrostatic machines are happy to run 30 weight, just standard engine oil works. If it gets really cold where you are, you may need thinner oil.

30 weight oil seems to work good in my dozer so i think i will try that. it will give me and excuse to use up some of the 30 weight oil i have sittin around. i ordered injectors today from my dealer, i was wondering 2 things, 1. are these one piece or 2 piece injectors like older equipment 2. what is the best way to clean the rest of the gunk out of the fuel lines? thanks for all the help on this. also is there any precautions i should take before installing the new ones? i have the work area pretty cleaned up. just trying to make sure i dont screw anything up,

 

[Jaker65]

30 weight oil seems to work good in my dozer so i think i will try that. it will give me and excuse to use up some of the 30 weight oil i have sittin around. i ordered injectors today from my dealer, i was wondering 2 things, 1. are these one piece or 2 piece injectors like older equipment 2. what is the best way to clean the rest of the gunk out of the fuel lines? thanks for all the help on this. also is there any precautions i should take before installing the new ones? i have the work area pretty cleaned up. just trying to make sure i dont screw anything up,

forgot to add, does anyone know of a place that i could maybe get these injectors cheaper? i paid 77 dollars today just for one, if i can get the others at a decent price, i am open to options.

 

[Tazza]

forgot to add, does anyone know of a place that i could maybe get these injectors cheaper? i paid 77 dollars today just for one, if i can get the others at a decent price, i am open to options.

They can get pulled right down. The sections un-screw. There is a limit of how much you can do though. If the spray is off, you probably need a new nozzle, then they need to be calibrated to crack at the correct pressure.
Nothing special you need to do, just install and crank till it fills with fuel. Make sure you install a new copper washer under it though.

 

[Jaker65]

They can get pulled right down. The sections un-screw. There is a limit of how much you can do though. If the spray is off, you probably need a new nozzle, then they need to be calibrated to crack at the correct pressure.
Nothing special you need to do, just install and crank till it fills with fuel. Make sure you install a new copper washer under it though.

sounds pretty easy to do then. didnt know that there were 2 sections though. im probably just better off buying the whole assembly than just the nozzles then. i dont really have the tools to calibrate them to crack at the right pressure. the only thing i forgot and is pretty much a amateur thing to do....buy the copper washers lol. well guess i will be calling them back tomorrow. thanks again for the help Tazza!

 

[Tazza]

sounds pretty easy to do then. didnt know that there were 2 sections though. im probably just better off buying the whole assembly than just the nozzles then. i dont really have the tools to calibrate them to crack at the right pressure. the only thing i forgot and is pretty much a amateur thing to do....buy the copper washers lol. well guess i will be calling them back tomorrow. thanks again for the help Tazza!

The injector should have come with the washer..... It seals between the head and the injector housing.
They can be a pain to remove though.
I have actually pulled injectors down a few times before to free them up, the nozzle can get stuck. Pulling it down and freeing it up can usually fix the problem.

 

[Jaker65]

The injector should have come with the washer..... It seals between the head and the injector housing.
They can be a pain to remove though.
I have actually pulled injectors down a few times before to free them up, the nozzle can get stuck. Pulling it down and freeing it up can usually fix the problem.

sounds like thats not too hard at all. i know on the old D4, i had to put a cap on the end of the injector, then tap the top of the cap with a small hammer to lossen it up before i could pull it out. i remember i tried like heck to pull them out with pliers and such, but with just the littlest tap from the hammer, it popped right out. didnt hurt it or bust any threads. i just gotta wait a couple paychecks now to get the rest of the injectors for this ol gal. one thing is for sure, this stuff aint cheap.