I need to buy chains for my 753. Need better traction on snow and ice. The question that came up is this. How far apart should the cross chains be? These chains go across the treads and can be from 2-6 inches apart. Will standard spacing suffice, say, 6" apart, or do I need to buy chains with a closer density of cross chains? Obviously, closer cross chains will ride smoother due to less bumpy bumpy. thanks Mike in frigid Connecticut where there ain't no global warming
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Perry
Tracks are better for mud, but chains rock on frosty snow packed or icy surfaces.
A set on the rear (80 % of your weight is there) is all most people would need unless you want to lift hard and push hard at the same time.
On snow pack, chains don't ride too bad because there is enough weight to punch them into the snow. Traction is 2 to 3 times better. Especially when trying to turn with a big blade full of snow. One cross chain every 6 to 8" is fine. Just make sure the cross chains are heavy duty. 5/16" minimum, better with 3/8" chain. They will wear longer and not break.
Ken
Have been using screw in studs this year on forklifts and they work very well. Can run on asphalt without any wear. Should last 2 seasons at least by current amount of wear. Just unscrew when you do not need them anymore. Will be trying out on my 773 next year. Need to be carefull of tread depth. I have not found chains very usefull. http://www.maxi-grip.se/en/index.html
I think chains are neccessity for plowing snow. They are rough on dry pavement but aren't so bad on ice and snow.Studs inhance traction but can't compare with chains for traction.Later in then season when ice and frozen berms are a given. I need all then traction I can get.
The down side of chains is that they wear fast and most chains you can buy aren't easy to maintain. The crosslinks are too short and too hard to replace when they break.Chains made for your pick-up are pretty light and really not made for heavy plowing. Not that they would not work for a homeowner or business. For the guy just doing his drive and maybe a couple of neighbors, a set of chains on the rear will do just fine.Most lumber yards up here run chains on the forklifts because anything but a level surface requires chains with a forklift.
Chains for a pick-up are $130 to $160 a pair and heavy equiptment dealer are even higher. I go about 2 years on a set of chains. I chain all four tires and put the new set on the rear and rotate the rear to the front.I don't buy these chains anymore, haven't for 6 or 7 years.Ithink there is another post on another thread explaining what I type of chains I've gone to along with pics.
I've gone to a set of chains that were not designed for a skid steer but work very well at half the price. I can custom fit with bolt cutters and the cross links are long so the chains won't walk off the tire if they get loose. No special tool to attach crosslinks. I don't run cross links with ice bars because there are issues with scarring up pavement on homeowner drives.
The best way I 've found to make them last is to stay out of the the stick when you have a powerful machine and try not to spin the wheels.scott
Ken, half of of what I said was redundant to your post. Sorry about that. scott
Perry, I've used chains in the mud and they work really well.If your tires are little wore they work even better. The cross chains do act like grouser and metal over the side wall help in the ruts.They don't copare with tracks but are a cheap option, scott
plowed plenty of snow and chains make all the difference in the world, we are talking like night and day, the only hang up is that obviously they shift around some, just readjust, could not plow snow with out.
Ditto Tracks are better for mud, but chains rock on frosty snow packed or icy surfaces. A set on the rear (80 % of your weight is there) is all most people would need unless you want to lift hard and push hard at the same time. On snow pack, chains don't ride too bad because there is enough weight to punch them into the snow. Traction is 2 to 3 times better. Especially when trying to turn with a big blade full of snow. One cross chain every 6 to 8" is fine. Just make sure the cross chains are heavy duty. 5/16" minimum, better with 3/8" chain. They will wear longer and not break. Ken I agree with Ken I couldn't say it any better ETB
If the chains rest between the tire treads, you have no improvement in traction!. If they were designed in a 'X' pattern then they would set on top of the treads. I'm just speculating.
I just recently put chains on my 843 - 12x16.5 i went with a v-notch - 4 link ladder chains ( all 4 wheels) this means that every 4th link around the chain has a lateral cross chain, my tires are good years and they are about 50% traction on them. the chains tend to lay down nice but i could see a little performance lost with deep new tread. the important things to look for is - hardened chain of course and a decent size chain. my skid steer has become unstopable in the western ny icy winter, i can go places where the bobcat used to be very frightened to go, she has overcome her fear. i went with the cam lock type which should be checked for tightnes regularly, i have tightened 2 additional links in a month of use and they feel like they are right where i want them, i also heard that letting a bit of air out of the tires could help with fit? hope it's helpful... if you travel in ice/hardpack on moderate terain in a wintery climate, they are essential Ryan
chains ALL suck and are a waste of money and time.had three diferant types and none last.dont waste your time
Tell us why your chains did not last or were unsatisfactory. Do you have insights into the excess wear they suffered? Give us something to go on and we'll see how it sits. Perhaps we can help you get better traction or lifespan with them. Mike
Hey Perry, go over to the home made thread and look at the chains on the gehl. The tires are only 50% but the chains are big enough to get quite a bite even if they lay down in the lugs.
I run them loose and they look rough but work great.
For the guy that hates chains, let us know how you break them or how long you exspect the chains to last.Some machines need the wheels reversed and make sure you trim the extra side links so they don't catch.. With the freeze- thaw weather we we have here, I could not do with out them. Scott
Bahmi: I have 4-link chains that came w/ my loader, but I added cross-links to make them 2-link. My cross-chains are made of 3/8" grade 70 chain. The 4-link set up left the cross chains way too far apart for my likes. I just took the chains off to repair some bent cam locks (side adjustment levers) that were only a fat 1/8" and were twisting. I replaced them w/ the same kind, but 1/4" thick. Anyway, trying to run the loader on snow w/out chains was pitiful. (JD 332 w/ 14 x 17.5 heavy lugged tires). I have only run these maybe 30 hrs on dirt and 10-15 on snow/ice, but I have not broken a cross link yet. I had some GI large truck chains on a JD 240 and was breaking them every hour or two; terrible chains. Maybe the ones Vinny69 had were similar. They were also only about 1/4", MAYBE 5/16". These, on a much larger machine, are 3/8" cross links. Chains make a huge difference, and if they last several years/even a hundred hours, they are well worth it.
