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If I recall correctly, they are a taper fit into the end of the boom. Loosen the bolt on the outside half a dozen turns and then give it a sharp rap with a good sized hammer. If all goes well the pin will pop loose from the taper and slide into the Bobtach. Knock both of them into the Bobtach and remove. When you replace these pins, hit the end of the bolt every once in a while as you tighten it. They have to be really tight.
Also find a longer bolt and screw it in aways and you can tap on it with a hammer to get it loose. Take the grease fitting out that will release the pressure on the pin and you should be able to push the pin in. And use the longer bolt to get it back in the arm. The stock bolts are to short. Also try not to get any grease on the tapered end. Other wise it will be a pain to get it tight. And one more thing once you get everything back together watch your bolts while using the bucket and if the bolts turn the pin is turning and you dont want that.
Good luck
Great, I will try it. Thanks!
skidsteer.ca
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First remove the grease fittings.
Don't loosen the bolt all the way before you hit or you may damge the bolts threads. Just loosen it 2 turns. Then break the taper free, then remove the bolt and get a longer one to push the pin. You will need it to pull the pin back in later anyway.
I will take at least a 2 lb hammer to break the taper free.
Be sure to re torque the bolts after you use it some again, as they may seat further and need to tight.
Skidsteer.ca
I am having trouble with the taper pin on my S250. I removed the grease fitting. Loosened the bolt more than two turns. It feels like it is spinning free in the pin. I can see it turn when I look in the zerk hole. What do I do now? Second, do I strike the factory stud to push the tapered pin to the center of the loader? Also, my bolt/stud will not come out. Is it attached somewhere I can not see? Does the tapered pin get pushed inside the bobtach plate? Looks like a easy job, but I never seen it out or have any pics of what it looks like inside the cylinders. Thanks for the response
I was able to get one of the pins to release by tapping it in but the other side does not want to budge - even after blows with a sledge. Ideas???
Heat, sometimes lots of heat. Use a torch. Did your bolts pull out easy after you pushed the pin into the plate?
Yeah, no problem getting the bolts out. I will try the heat.
Heating the pin did the trick and both pins are out. Sorta confused by the replacement pin set I was sold. It appears I will need new 3/4" bolts because the new pins do not have any thread until the bolt is inserted a few inches into the pin. The old pins had threads that allowed for very short bolts. There is also a rubber washer/grommet in the new parts that I can't figure out where it goes.
The new style pin is just as you discribed , the threads are on the bottom end and you need longer bolts , I think they did that because the pins use to break alot when the threads were in the end , when your gathering bolts get one about 3 inches longer to use to line up and pull the pin ito the boom's a-taper------------------the rubber ring goes on the end of the tube that the bushing sits in , it keeps dirt out , I would guess that your weldment is worn down and you won't have any lip for the rubber to ride on any way
Seems that all I can find in stock locally for the longer bolts are grade 2. Anybody have thoughts on whether these would be suffucient? My thoughts are that it would be okay since it is simply holding the taper pin in place.
I would highly recommend grade 8 bolts. They need to be tight, as in, chunk of pipe on the end of the 3/4 drive tight. I think the grade 2 would strip or worse, break. If the bolts come loose and you don't catch them soon enough, the taper will hammer out and then you have to cut the end of the boom off and weld a new piece on. Order some grade 8 bolts.
skidsteer.ca
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Don't cheap out on bolts. Torque is @ 110 ft lbs.
Ken
Thanks for the advice. I was finally able to find someone who had some grade 8s in stock.
skidsteer.ca
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I actually broke one on a customers 853. Must have been a poor grade because it stretch in the center so bad it it was down to about a 1/2" dia instead of 5/8 when it broke.
Fortunately it unscrewed out of the pin easy once we got it back apart, pita. New bolts are a good idea, I have even seen the bolt break on a 753 that had not been removed. There is a lot of stress to keep that pin seated.
Be sure to re torque them after some use and keep a eye on them after that
Ken
