Replacing lift hydraulic hose on bobcat S220...

[ylsf]

Hello all,

First, just a quick thanks to the forum as I have learned a lot when I have run into issues in the past with our machine. We don't use it for a lot of work and often have the dealer service guy work on it.

The lift hose blew on it yesterday and finally got a chance today to take a closer look at it. I was thinking to replace both the tilt and lift hoses as it seems would be easier to get at the lift hose in behind the tilt hose if both were removed at same time plus I think they are both original on the machine.

I want to make sure I am taking it off correctly because although I have searched I haven't found this specific hose change out in youtube videos or forums.

So, this is what the connections look like under the arm and then go further down into the engine compartment:

Can I remove this top connection first and then have room to reach down into the engine compartment from the top or do a need to undo the ones in the engine compartment from the back door (there is another larger set of hoses in the way so seems would be harder to get in that way).

I tried using a 1" wrench and a 15/16" wrench but it looks like they might be metric connections as it is a little loose.

What I was trying to do was hold #1 part in the pic up with a wrench and then pull #2 down (i.e. to the left). I didn't want to put too much pressure on it in case I was doing it wrong or in case I had to remove the other side first.

I am sure for people familiar with hydraulics this seems like a pretty basic question but would appreciate any tips. Also, since the lift hose has a hole in it I know there isn't any pressure in it but do I need to worry about pressure in the tilt hose if the power is off? I know how to release the pressure in the aux hoses but not sure how to release pressure in the rest of the system.

Expecting some snow tomorrow up here so hoping can get this resolved at some point on Friday to get the machine back working. Our dealer is booked up until mid next week otherwise would have had him come and take care of it and do some other service on the machine.

 

[ylsf]

Sorry, don't know why it posted a block of text like that. I put in space/enters to make paragraphs in the original. Just tried reposting as a reply and it still shows like a block of text when I go to the preview.

 

[ylsf]

Realized this morning that I am probably doing it wrong and the fitting on the hard line is the one that needs to turn while holding the hose solid. Sprayed some penetrating oil on it 15 minutes ago and going to try to get it to move in the next bit. Did some cleaning of the area already but will clean more before disconnecting the line.

 

[ylsf]

Realized this morning that I am probably doing it wrong and the fitting on the hard line is the one that needs to turn while holding the hose solid. Sprayed some penetrating oil on it 15 minutes ago and going to try to get it to move in the next bit. Did some cleaning of the area already but will clean more before disconnecting the line.

Just a quick update in case anyone else comes across this and had the same issues as me. Basically the post above from today was the correct way to open it. The hard hydraulic line had to be loosened off the hose. Held the hose in place with one wrench and then used another wrench to push up on it (i.e. left). It took a while. I used WD40 super penetrating oil on it, banged it a few times lightly with a hammer (the physically connection and when the wrench was on it). I then used a pipe for leverage/etc. So, I managed to get one side disconnected for the tilt line (replacing both hoses) but now having trouble removing the same side of the lift arm (the one actually broken). Will try again tomorrow. Hopefully I am doing it right (assuming same idea, up on the part that is connected to the 90, while holding the hole down).

 

[flyerdan]

Just a quick update in case anyone else comes across this and had the same issues as me. Basically the post above from today was the correct way to open it. The hard hydraulic line had to be loosened off the hose. Held the hose in place with one wrench and then used another wrench to push up on it (i.e. left). It took a while. I used WD40 super penetrating oil on it, banged it a few times lightly with a hammer (the physically connection and when the wrench was on it). I then used a pipe for leverage/etc. So, I managed to get one side disconnected for the tilt line (replacing both hoses) but now having trouble removing the same side of the lift arm (the one actually broken). Will try again tomorrow. Hopefully I am doing it right (assuming same idea, up on the part that is connected to the 90, while holding the hole down).

I fixed your image link and went ahead an put in the line breaks, you have to physically put in all of the html codes for formatting, basically it's building a web page in notepad.

The hoses look to be constructed just like an air hose, the hex end of the hose is fixed solid by the ferrule, and won't turn. You can tell by the shoulder on the line that #1 fitting nut is the one that will turn, and I agree that it will probably need to move to access the one behind it.

I just had a thought (and it's probably old news to those that work on these all the time) that since it's so easy to round off the smaller hex when applying pressure to remove these, a quick blast with an air hammer to the wrench on the fitting to turn might loosen it up. Using a dull chisel that's been ground flat should apply more persuasive force without stressing the fittings with a cheater or big hammer.

 

[farmshop]

I fixed your image link and went ahead an put in the line breaks, you have to physically put in all of the html codes for formatting, basically it's building a web page in notepad.

The hoses look to be constructed just like an air hose, the hex end of the hose is fixed solid by the ferrule, and won't turn. You can tell by the shoulder on the line that #1 fitting nut is the one that will turn, and I agree that it will probably need to move to access the one behind it.

I just had a thought (and it's probably old news to those that work on these all the time) that since it's so easy to round off the smaller hex when applying pressure to remove these, a quick blast with an air hammer to the wrench on the fitting to turn might loosen it up. Using a dull chisel that's been ground flat should apply more persuasive force without stressing the fittings with a cheater or big hammer.

Some of those hoses can really suck to get off. Usually take the top end loose from the top then go through the back door for the others. Sometimes you need a crow foot or different length wrench