repair of liftarms

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trplee

Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
5
what thickness of steel plate recommended to do repair on liftarms as well as welding rod?7018 rods? Is gouging removing any old weld done to original steel? I will cut out top of liftarm to weld plate on interior and weld plate on exterior, then weld top of lift arm back in. Does this sound like best way to repair major crack?
 

Tazza

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Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,844
On my 743, it had cracked into 2 pieces, the previous owner welded a plate over the cracks but didn't line anything up! it was horrid. I removed the plate, removed the tube lines to gain access (actually had the arms off) Made sure it was all in line and tacked it in place. I then got my plasma and cut the cracks out to give me a good gap to fill with weld. I actually used 6011 rods with a high frequency inverter welder. A *standard* welder will not run these rods rite. They are a rutle rod with high penetration i found them to be excellent for crack repair. As long as you gouge the cracks out well enough a standard rod will do the job, just ensure its hot enough to weld all the way down to the bottom of the crack, not just a bead over the top. I did this along the sides and most importantly underneath! this is where most of your force will be applied, if you don't fix the crack on the underside it will crack again.
I then cut the top section out so allow me to put some 1/4" or larger plates in, they were almost full height of the arm and about 12" long. You don't need them to be that long but longer the better. I then welded along the base and top. You can't get to the ends unless you remove more metal, but base and top should be enough. 6011 rods are not needed here, but if you want it won't hurt. The base is the part under the most stress so concentrate on that! I put a plate on both sides inside the arm. Then put the top back on and used 6011 rods on that and ground it flat again, looks look new.
I honestly wouldn't weld plates to the outside, it looks ugly and if you try and sell it, the buyer may not like seeing it. Remember, it was not plated from the factory and the internal gussets will make it a LOT stronger than it ever was from the factory floor. Just take time and give it a good weld and you will be fine. Just make sure its all lined up before. If you remove the arms from the machine, make sure you gouge it and tack first, you don't want it being out when you put them back on.
Remember, make sure the underside is welded correctly! fill that crack or you will be fixing it again. I can't stress that enough.
Good luck with it, if you need any more info just yell and i will tell you what i can.
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Could you post a few pictures of the problem area(s) Unless the arms are bent and twisted up they should be able to be reapaired. It will give us a better idea of how to go about the repair.
Ken
 
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trplee

Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
5
I will take some pictures and post them as soon as I can. These arms are in pretty bad shape, but everything can be fixed.
 
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