Good idea Tazza, I will look up a dealer and see what they can do for me. Thanks
Found the solenoid at a Deutz dealer for a little over $200. Bobcat dealer was trying to bend me over apparently.
Good to hear you had a win!
Yes if you need engine parts go straight to the engine mfg, The water pump for my Isuzu was more at Bobcat too. For what I got Isuzu still wanted plenty. 150 versus 250.
Got the new solenoid and it works fine now!
Sid... Having a bit of trouble with my 863 starting (same Deutz engine as your T200). Normally starts on first crank, or maybe two. In the past few days, it's begun to not fire on 4 or 5 revs. I've stopped cranking, then retried. After a few iterations, it starts on the first engine rev, as it always has before. I'm suspecting the fuel shut-off solenoid is getting tired. I've checked voltage on the white wire going into the solenoid (1-1/2" dia, 4" long, right side of engine near the rear door), and it's always been 10v or more when it cranks and starts. Haven't yet caught it when it won't start to see if there's voltage there or not. I've swapped the fuel relay with the starter relay and checked the fuel solenoid fuse and contacts. [Actually, this may have solved the problem since it hasn't failed to start since I did this] So the question for you is: how did you diagnose the solenoid problem and what were the symptoms that led you to it being defective? Is there an ohm check I can do that will reveal anything? Also, where is the manual shut-off switch for the fuel? Is that the 1-1/2" long lever just below the solenoid that doesn't connect to anything? It will rotate manually about 90 degrees. Many thanks,
Bobbie-GEasisest way to check the solenoid is to pop the square connector on the solenoid off and see if it is burnt. Those can fail so the engine won't start or not shut off. Normally they seem to just go out. With what you are saying, I kinda wonder if it is sucking a little air or draing back. Duetzs are very forgiving to air and have to be the easiest diesel to prime, as in doing nothing. Does it have good power once running? I would also drain the fuel filter, see if any crude or water is there.Sid... Having a bit of trouble with my 863 starting (same Deutz engine as your T200). Normally starts on first crank, or maybe two. In the past few days, it's begun to not fire on 4 or 5 revs. I've stopped cranking, then retried. After a few iterations, it starts on the first engine rev, as it always has before. I'm suspecting the fuel shut-off solenoid is getting tired. I've checked voltage on the white wire going into the solenoid (1-1/2" dia, 4" long, right side of engine near the rear door), and it's always been 10v or more when it cranks and starts. Haven't yet caught it when it won't start to see if there's voltage there or not. I've swapped the fuel relay with the starter relay and checked the fuel solenoid fuse and contacts. [Actually, this may have solved the problem since it hasn't failed to start since I did this] So the question for you is: how did you diagnose the solenoid problem and what were the symptoms that led you to it being defective? Is there an ohm check I can do that will reveal anything? Also, where is the manual shut-off switch for the fuel? Is that the 1-1/2" long lever just below the solenoid that doesn't connect to anything? It will rotate manually about 90 degrees. Many thanks,
Dan, that raises a worry I had since I read about the fuel solenoid failing, or the engine running on the crankcase oil. What's the best way to shut off an engine where the fuel shut off solenoid has failed, or the engine is running off the crankcase oil? The only thing I could think off was to run the machine into a dirt pile and try to stall it out. Is there a better way to shut it down?
If you can get to it before it overspeeds itself to death. There are two ways to shut one down.
The only other way i thought of was to engage the brake and push against it while bottoming out a cylinder to put as much load on the engine as possible.
If the engine is running normal, just snub it against the brake, I have known guys who did that for a year before they fix the solenoid. I never had one overspeed, but I guess I would rip the filters out and jam a coat in the air box. Something small like rags could easily be digested. Back when I worked on cars, I saw a 7.3 powerstroke suck it's plugged air filter out of the box all the way up to the turbo.
About the only way the engine would run on crankcase oil is if the oil is very diluted diesel fuel that the engine could pull the fumes threw the breather. Not all duetz had closed breathers, so it may very well not be real worried anyways. If your oil level is fine, this is really nothing to worry about.
Sorry about not getting back to this thread sooner. When I was having trouble with my solenoid it just quit. It did not work intermittently...worked fine one day and the next day it was dead. The way I tested my solenoid was to disconnect the 2 wires going to it and check for voltage and ground on the machine side. If that is good then you can take the solenoid out and use some jumper wires directly off a 12v source (I used a jump box). If there is power and ground on the machine side then the solenoid is probably bad and if it doesn't work when hooked up directly to 12v then it is defiantly bad. After I replaced the solenoid it quit working after awhile again (earlier this summer) and this time the solenoid was not bad but I found I was not getting 12v to the solenoid when the key was turned on. I have a full wiring schematic for my machine so I traced the problem to the computer. A new computer was about $800 so I just found a wire that was hot when the key was on and ran a new relay for the fuel solenoid. Much cheaper than a new computer. For a machine that only gets about 50 hours a year on it, the patch job is good enough. The only problem with the patch relay is that the engine would not shut off if the computer senses something out of whack. Oh well....good enough for the girls I go with.
