old john deere170 skid steer

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samthebarber

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2007
Messages
6
I bought an old john deere170 skid steer and put some $$$ in it. first thing i done is had some jacks built, then my spring shieve busted got that fixed, then my hydralic speed reducer went down had that rebuilt now after all that i cant get my hydralics to work right they have air bubbels real bad i looked in my service manuel and it says suction line has a hole, no hole. it also says mabe wrong oil the book calls for john deer hydrostatic all weather oil or f-type oil so i go to my local parts store and tell them what i need no f-type oil and they never herd of hydrostatic oil but we have hydrotrans oil so i discused it with them a bit and they talked me into buying the oil.when i first got the skid steer it worked fine i had added regular hydralic oil in it when it needed it i never had a problem tell i had the speed reducer rebuilt i put a five gal bucket of hydralic oil in it then i think it might be that the colder temps mighthas something to do with it some body please help meeeeeeee
 
Hydrostatic oil is thicker, just like engine oil. You shouldn't be using hydraulic oil, its too thin. The bearings and rotating parts will get be properly lubricated when the machine gets to temperature as the oil gets thinner.
The air in the system, i take it this happened after you got parts repaired and re-installed them rite? Usually running the machine will get all the trapped air out over time.
 
Hydrostatic oil is thicker, just like engine oil. You shouldn't be using hydraulic oil, its too thin. The bearings and rotating parts will get be properly lubricated when the machine gets to temperature as the oil gets thinner.
The air in the system, i take it this happened after you got parts repaired and re-installed them rite? Usually running the machine will get all the trapped air out over time.
Cycling the functions should work the aire out of the system and back to the resevoir where hte bubbles can rise to the top. run it a few minutes then shut if off for 20 minutes to let the bubbles rise out.
How cold is the temps where you are?
Ken
 
Hydrostatic oil is thicker, just like engine oil. You shouldn't be using hydraulic oil, its too thin. The bearings and rotating parts will get be properly lubricated when the machine gets to temperature as the oil gets thinner.
The air in the system, i take it this happened after you got parts repaired and re-installed them rite? Usually running the machine will get all the trapped air out over time.
hey thanks for the reply. so what kind of oil do you recomend if i cant find the hydrostatic oil the book says all weather hydrostatic or f-type automatic transmission oil is ther a substitute i can use
 
hey thanks for the reply. so what kind of oil do you recomend if i cant find the hydrostatic oil the book says all weather hydrostatic or f-type automatic transmission oil is ther a substitute i can use
Well hydrostatic oil is the same grade as engine oil, 10W30, 15WE40, 20W50, along those lines.
Its a lot heavier than hydraulic oil or ATF. I don't believe they recommend ATF, its about as thin as hydraulic oil!.
 
Well hydrostatic oil is the same grade as engine oil, 10W30, 15WE40, 20W50, along those lines.
Its a lot heavier than hydraulic oil or ATF. I don't believe they recommend ATF, its about as thin as hydraulic oil!.
thank everyone i just bought my john 170 a week ago and still waiting for the book on it. that explain ALL Most of the leaks going to wally wrold and stock up on the cheep 10\30 oil i can find. now how easy is it to find the main drive belt? just wondering. thank you jimmy
 
thank everyone i just bought my john 170 a week ago and still waiting for the book on it. that explain ALL Most of the leaks going to wally wrold and stock up on the cheep 10\30 oil i can find. now how easy is it to find the main drive belt? just wondering. thank you jimmy
Just a Note the 170 is the same as a 1700 mustang in the 70's. Mustang built them for deere so with that being said you also use this info when looking for parts/info. Mustang used wisconsin, ford or perkins diesel engines so these have different setups out of the engines too. But as far as the machine they are the same. Not sure what deere used but think it was Wisconsin.
 
thank everyone i just bought my john 170 a week ago and still waiting for the book on it. that explain ALL Most of the leaks going to wally wrold and stock up on the cheep 10\30 oil i can find. now how easy is it to find the main drive belt? just wondering. thank you jimmy
mine is a 4 cind. winc. but just looking for more info about these deere and brousing the forums about what can happand? thank you 4 your respond jimmy
 
mine is a 4 cind. winc. but just looking for more info about these deere and brousing the forums about what can happand? thank you 4 your respond jimmy
Jimmy The book says F and if you put a thicker oil in you mite push out seals in that old of a machine or anyway thats what happen to me
 
mine is a 4 cind. winc. but just looking for more info about these deere and brousing the forums about what can happand? thank you 4 your respond jimmy
i did get the book now it says type F ATF so that is what i am going with thanks jimmy.
 
i did get the book now it says type F ATF so that is what i am going with thanks jimmy.
I realize this is an old thread. I just purchased a 170, repowered with an Isuzu diesel from a JD 24a (construction series). My dealer said to use John Deere Hy-Gard. At $70 for 5 gal, it's a little more than motor oil, but probably worth the money. Anyone else running these old rigs?
 
I realize this is an old thread. I just purchased a 170, repowered with an Isuzu diesel from a JD 24a (construction series). My dealer said to use John Deere Hy-Gard. At $70 for 5 gal, it's a little more than motor oil, but probably worth the money. Anyone else running these old rigs?
I picked one up a few months ago to use for snow removal. Seems every time I use it I have to fix it. It is currently sitting in the bush, down a hill with no hope of recovery. If I can't get it running it will have to stay there. Anyone know anything about starters? When it died, it was blowing a lot of black smoke like it was flooding. I ran the battery down trying to get it running enough to get it out of the bush. Now the starter quit working. All I get is the rattling of the solenoid. Any ideas?
 
I picked one up a few months ago to use for snow removal. Seems every time I use it I have to fix it. It is currently sitting in the bush, down a hill with no hope of recovery. If I can't get it running it will have to stay there. Anyone know anything about starters? When it died, it was blowing a lot of black smoke like it was flooding. I ran the battery down trying to get it running enough to get it out of the bush. Now the starter quit working. All I get is the rattling of the solenoid. Any ideas?
A fresh battery with plenty of cranking amperage.
Get the starter rebuilt. Make sure the terminal conections are good.
You use to be able to get parts for starters and rebuild your own.Now I have mine done . Its still cheaper than new.
There is always hope.Once you get it out of the bush maybee you will have a diferent outlook.It sounds like it was getting to much fuel. Or the engine is tired. Was the smoking all the time?
Take things one step at a time and these Bobcat Guys will give you the best direction you can get.Old Bobcats Never Die.They do need TLC after lack of maintenence.
Mike
 
A fresh battery with plenty of cranking amperage.
Get the starter rebuilt. Make sure the terminal conections are good.
You use to be able to get parts for starters and rebuild your own.Now I have mine done . Its still cheaper than new.
There is always hope.Once you get it out of the bush maybee you will have a diferent outlook.It sounds like it was getting to much fuel. Or the engine is tired. Was the smoking all the time?
Take things one step at a time and these Bobcat Guys will give you the best direction you can get.Old Bobcats Never Die.They do need TLC after lack of maintenence.
Mike
Thanks Mike. I was working on quite a slope when it started to smoke a little, intermittently. I decided to get out of there before it got worse, but as I was leaving the smoking increased significantly. It would run at an idle (still smoking) but as soon as I tried to give it any gas it would quit. I pulled the air intake off and confirmed the choke was open and tapped the carburetor bowl thinking the float was stuck. Since then, I pulled the carb and found everything good. I will get the battery charged up. I have already cleaned the posts and re-attached the cables (they were loose) and hooked a 700 cranking amp portable booster to it but it still won't engage. Next, I'll follow the cables back, cleaning as I go. Being an optimist, I am going with what you said in the reply to the other query I entered - that with a low battery the bendix sometimes hangs up. I'm not looking forward to removing the starter. The machine is sitting on forest floor so I'll have to dig a hole to get under it. A jack would just sink out of sight. One odd thing - I turned the motor over by hand to make sure it wasn't seized. It will go one direction (with the starter clicking away) but absolutely will not turn the other direction. It has a Briggs and Straton engine. Do these motors have a history?
 
Thanks Mike. I was working on quite a slope when it started to smoke a little, intermittently. I decided to get out of there before it got worse, but as I was leaving the smoking increased significantly. It would run at an idle (still smoking) but as soon as I tried to give it any gas it would quit. I pulled the air intake off and confirmed the choke was open and tapped the carburetor bowl thinking the float was stuck. Since then, I pulled the carb and found everything good. I will get the battery charged up. I have already cleaned the posts and re-attached the cables (they were loose) and hooked a 700 cranking amp portable booster to it but it still won't engage. Next, I'll follow the cables back, cleaning as I go. Being an optimist, I am going with what you said in the reply to the other query I entered - that with a low battery the bendix sometimes hangs up. I'm not looking forward to removing the starter. The machine is sitting on forest floor so I'll have to dig a hole to get under it. A jack would just sink out of sight. One odd thing - I turned the motor over by hand to make sure it wasn't seized. It will go one direction (with the starter clicking away) but absolutely will not turn the other direction. It has a Briggs and Straton engine. Do these motors have a history?
That starter bendix may be stuck on the shaft. usually if you turn the engine by hand the bendix will retract away from the flywheel. Try spraying some lubrication on the starter shaft by the bendix. Or pull the starter and take a look.
To bad you cant drag it out of the woods to get it going.
There may be a second selenoid involved in the starter curcit.
The Bobcat owners will be here soon. Im a New Holland owner. Mike
 
That starter bendix may be stuck on the shaft. usually if you turn the engine by hand the bendix will retract away from the flywheel. Try spraying some lubrication on the starter shaft by the bendix. Or pull the starter and take a look.
To bad you cant drag it out of the woods to get it going.
There may be a second selenoid involved in the starter curcit.
The Bobcat owners will be here soon. Im a New Holland owner. Mike
Oh ; I see its a John Deer. Il follow thru and help where I can . There are a few John Deer guys here also. Mike
 
Oh ; I see its a John Deer. Il follow thru and help where I can . There are a few John Deer guys here also. Mike
I just bought a John Deere model 170 and it will not turn. I had some John Deere Hydrollic oil in the garage and put it in, it took 5 gallons. Now, the machine will not turn or go in reverse. Any ideas what might possible be wrong? It worked two or three times for some minor snow removal I had but now it won't turn or go in reverse with the sticks. I would appreciate any ideas you might have. It seems like you know quite about these work horses. I have a manual but it's all "greek" to me. Thank you for your time. Dan
 
So,how did it work out? Did you get your machine running? My post did not get any replies from anyone and mine is still sitting in my driveway...getting disgusted as any of the local shops I have inquired with give me the DUH???...what kind of a machine is it??"How old is that old bugger..I never heard of it"..getting ready to get out the cutting torch and start cutting it up,looks like I got taken for not a great sum of money but could have had a good Hawaian vacation with the money...live and learn to anyone that see's this..check to see if anybody can repair these machines before you purchase it and see if they still make parts for it,you would think John Deere a world wide company..not local but world wide would have some idea...but....NO!!!
 
So,how did it work out? Did you get your machine running? My post did not get any replies from anyone and mine is still sitting in my driveway...getting disgusted as any of the local shops I have inquired with give me the DUH???...what kind of a machine is it??"How old is that old bugger..I never heard of it"..getting ready to get out the cutting torch and start cutting it up,looks like I got taken for not a great sum of money but could have had a good Hawaian vacation with the money...live and learn to anyone that see's this..check to see if anybody can repair these machines before you purchase it and see if they still make parts for it,you would think John Deere a world wide company..not local but world wide would have some idea...but....NO!!!
the john deere construction equipment site has exploded views and parts listings for that machine, some may not be available though. If you don't have a service book that is where you have to start if you want to fix it yourself.
 
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