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So I disconnected I think the return line that's the one that's coming off the thermostat housing so whether it was cold or it was getting hot it would come out mostly as a stream or intermittent stream there would be an occasional gush
And if that is the correct line there was nothing coming out of the hose coming from the heater core
I hav a 753 in the shop now . the heater is a lot higher than the engine . My idea is air lock . pinch off 1 hose and with the machine running loosen a hose clamp next to the core or heat control and let out any air trapped in the heater core . worth a try . If you have a radiator pressure tester you can use it so you don't have to run the engine
Yeah so that's what that's what I was thinking too cuz everyone but but at the same time my last post starts you know what I was saying that this is really not a lot of pressure in there like there's not a constant flow of coolant coming out of that hose you know I'm taking it's probably stuck open tomorrow be my guess that's that's honestly what I'm leaning to right now but I'm going to get a I'm going to get a pressure tester tomorrow and check it
JakeK
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- Feb 3, 2022
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Had the same issue on my Cat skid steer That ended up being a plugged heater core. I removed both lines and flushed with a garden hose alternating hoses till my flow was good again. Lots of junk came out. Once I had good flow i had heat.
Yeah so that's what I thought too but I took the heater core out I flushed out of the garden hose on both ends of it inside you know the inlet and outlet I mean it was a little bit of stuff came out but not much and it was good I'm more inclined to think that it's like Air Walk like an air bubble in there cuz the way the hoses have to go down by the Air canister the battery and then back up into the cab so I'm going to I'm going to try to do that later and I'm going to order a new thermostat and water pump just to be on the safe side
So I took off the return line where the split is and I'll let it run for about 10 minutes or so above idle there is coolant coming out of there like the coins actually now going to the heater core it's hot and then coming back on the return line my question is how much should be coming out of there well it's on like that should be a lot coming through or just a little when I say a little I mean a little
JakeK
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Should flow at a rate that fills a gallon jug ever 30 - 40 seconds Or less.
I guess if you just think the heater core is got trapped air , leave a leak on the outlet side of the core till you get a good amount of coolant leaking, seal that up and go towards the engine and repeat,it might take time and several times to get it all, There should be a idea if the pressure the system operates at by a few pounds less than what the stock radiator cap is rated at. good luck
So I finally got it working I'm guessing that it was air trapped in the line it gets hot the heater core gets hot everything is working but there's just not a lot of heat coming out through the cab I guess it's just not what I'm used to as far as my car but anyways for about 150 bucks and replace the one that's in there
brdgbldr
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- Jun 1, 2012
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You might want to add a couple of "T" valves so that you can bleed off any air in the future without having to take the hoses off.
Yeah I mean it is already too t valves on there I also put it's basically a on-off valve for gas if I can turn it on and off manually so I think I'm going to leave that on there for the time being cuz I mean not only is he going to order a new heater for it because the one that's supposed to be on there was missing that way I can just take that valve on off valve right out of there. I mean it should be all right for now I mean just find The Sweet spot with the the valve so that it's not open all the time or closed all the time
Wait a t valve is different than it's split right
thwerench
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Not sure what the flow rate should be. JakeK is probably close. Should be the full hose flow under low pressure. Remember this is off idle with machine warmed up If the heater core is flowing freely with no internal restriction. We use pressurized water to blow out suspected restricted heater cores in automotive use. I'm thinking 20 to 30 PSI or a little more not just a garden hose
Yeah I'm not sure about the flow on it it could be this you know the size of the hose you know the opening of it but I ended up getting the air lock out of it so I mean it's flows and I guess like it should the heater core actually gets hot and warms up in the cab not much but it's an older so I don't expect it to put out a lot but it seems to work now so but I'm going to get a new heater for it and it should have a bigger fan on it so it should put out a little bit more than what this one does but as of right now putting out heat so oh and I still need to get an orfice for it where that split is cuz it doesn't have one and I'm pretty sure it's supposed to
brdgbldr
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A petcock is what I am referring to as a "T" valve. It's a small valve that can be opened to bleed the air out and or test the coolant.