Need More Electrical Power

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SkidRoe

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
The stock alternator in the repower is barely cutting it.
The original Kohler had about a 20 amp charging circuit, and the 20hp Launtop only has 3 amps on tap (engines with 20 amp alternators were available, but I got this engine cheap). It is barely passable to recharge the battery after starting, and running the fuel pump / fuel shut-off solenoid (so long as you are not starting and shutting down a lot), but lights are out of the question.
I priced the Honda parts to put their 20 amp alternator coils / regulator in, and it comes out to about $400, plus you have to pull the motor to do it (fly wheel has to come off).
So my plan is to belt drive a second alternator from the crank shaft. I picked up a new 55 amp Denso one-wire for about $85, and will be installing a 4” pulley on the crank to drive it. These alternators are becoming really popular with hot-rodders, as they are really compact.
The parts are coming together and I am hoping to get a start on it over the weekend. And I will be taking pictures.
More to come,
SR
 

SkidRoe

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
I did the install today, it fit better than expected.
9D0EB3EE-B79E-47DD-A83C-8BBBD43CC953-1167-000002879F4CA70F.jpg

93FE46BA-6C49-4D7A-B769-7FCED6E410DE-1167-0000028799495273.jpg

I mounted it off of two of the bolts that secure the pump plate to the engine. There was just enough room behind the main drive pulley to slot in a second pulley (4” OD) to drive the alternator. Basically, it was just 3 parts to fabricate: the lower mount made from a piece of 1.5” heavy wall square tubing, a stand off for the adjuster link, and the adjuster link itself.
The alternator charges 14.5 volts at idle with all of the lights on. Much better.
I actually ended up disconnecting the original alternator and removing the rectifier / regulator.
 

Mikefromcny

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Joined
Nov 13, 2011
Messages
351
I did the install today, it fit better than expected.


I mounted it off of two of the bolts that secure the pump plate to the engine. There was just enough room behind the main drive pulley to slot in a second pulley (4” OD) to drive the alternator. Basically, it was just 3 parts to fabricate: the lower mount made from a piece of 1.5” heavy wall square tubing, a stand off for the adjuster link, and the adjuster link itself.
The alternator charges 14.5 volts at idle with all of the lights on. Much better.
I actually ended up disconnecting the original alternator and removing the rectifier / regulator.
Looks good, Lights and charging systems are usually the first thing I fix on a machine, nothing bothers me more.
 

SkidRoe

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Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
Looks good, Lights and charging systems are usually the first thing I fix on a machine, nothing bothers me more.
I hear you. With these one wire alternators, there is no excuse for not having a decent charging system on older equipment.
 

stingraygs

New member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
1
I did an almost identical Denso alternator mod on a Bobcat 722 I re-powered with a 35 HP Briggs Vanguard. I run twin electric fans, one on the hydraulic cooler and one on the Engine, for when I sit stationary and use heavy hydraulic load like stump grinding or trenching. I has worked great for several years now. Hope yours works as well.
 

SkidRoe

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
I did an almost identical Denso alternator mod on a Bobcat 722 I re-powered with a 35 HP Briggs Vanguard. I run twin electric fans, one on the hydraulic cooler and one on the Engine, for when I sit stationary and use heavy hydraulic load like stump grinding or trenching. I has worked great for several years now. Hope yours works as well.
Yup, so far, so good. Nice having plenty of electrical power on tap. Cheers!
 
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