Gentlemen, My brother was nice enough to let me use his older Mustang Series 1200... he bought a newer model. I've decided to at least try to replace one of the worst leaking axle seals but am not exactly sure how to go about it. I removed the nuts holding the bearing housing in place but now am at a stand still... hate to mess something up by using force in the wrong way. Can I just pull on the hub and that will force the bearing housing off? I hope someone will lead me in the right direction. Sincerely, R. Smith
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I'm not sure if this applies to your 1200 but both the 940 and the 2040 have a bearing pack in axle tubes. You access the chain case either down buy the foot pedal or in the engine compartment for the rear axle. Remove the cotter pin, nut and washers. the axle then comes out . You wil probably havt loosen the drive chain because the axe shaft goes thru the large drive sprocket. It will drop down into the chain case.
You can get to the seal from the outside once the axle is out along with the bearing pack. It's a full floating axle and if need be all the part # can be crossed to Timken or other brands at a parts or bearing outlet. The bearings are lubed from the oil in the chain case so there is not an inner seal. It's very simple except when you insert the axle you may need a extra hand lining up the drive sprocket with the splines on the shaft. Scott
After rereading your post you might have axles like I had on a mid 70's John Deere The whole housing unbolted from the side of the chain case. I think you still have to access the chain case and remove the axle nut so you can remove the axle. Again lubed from the inside so the is only one seal The housing does not have to be romoved to change seal, just the axle.
Pics always help Scott
I just replaced both seals on one side of my 1200 last week, as they were leaking very bad. The manual says that after you remove the castle nut and cotter pin, you need to press the shaft out. Do this by placing a hydralic jack against the other side frame. The shaft only needs to move about 1 1/2" and it will come out. I found there was enough slack in the chain for the main drive gear that I did not have to remove the link, just slide the shaft out. There are 3 collars on this shaft that will fall out when you remove the shaft, 2 on the inside of the main sprocket gear and one on the outside (wheel side) of gear. Try to catch them when you pull out the shaft, or you will be fishing them out from the bottom of the tank. You will have to crawl under the unit to remove the rear shaft, the front shaft can be accessed from the battery compartment. Once the shaft has been removed, I found the shaft had a groove worn from the seal, which caused it to leak. Very common problem. I had the shafts rewelded and turned to get a new seal surface ($90 each shaft). The local Mustang dealer had a shop they worked with. Reassembly is easier with 2 people so that you can get the collars positioned when you insert the shaft into the main sprocket gear. The manual says to tighten the nut to draw the shaft into the bearings until you take up the side to side slack in the bearings on the shaft. If it becomes too tight, you can loosen the nut and tap on the shaft from the inside with a lead hammer to gain more slack. If you need part numbers for the seals, I can get these for you when I get home. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. I can always fax you pages from my manual if needed.
Hollister,
One has to appreciate the internet and the help one can find here. Thank you for responding.
I do appreciate you, as well as the others, for the input.
Just to be sure that we are talking about the same machine I will "try" to include a photo... we'll see. You are saying I guess that the nut to the axle is under the plate "A" in the photo?
Right? I'm also assuming I can press from the outside since there is something in the way in the cab?
Please also give me some insight about the chain tightening nuts on the outside of the case. Should they be loosened? What direction is for tightening? How tight? Etc.
Thanks again.
Sincerely,
Ron Smith
Gentleman,
I want everyone to know how much I appreciate the time taken to help me on my little project. Holloster is the unluckest one though since he apparently has the same exact (hopefully) model... and I'll probably have more questions... assuming he's willing to answer.
Sincerely,
Ron Smith
Iowa
I want everyone to know how much I appreciate the time taken to help me on my little project. Holloster is the unluckest one though since he apparently has the same exact (hopefully) model... and I'll probably have more questions... assuming he's willing to answer.
Sincerely,
Ron Smith
Iowa
This has the same axle setup as the old John deere but I believe I accessed the castle nut thru the inspection plate on the out side of the chaincase between the wheels. the drive chain was adjusted by moving an idler sprocket that bolted to the chain case. I had four bolts and slotted holes in the chain case. On the newer mustangs (91 and a 96) you got to the castle through a flat plate as holister described above. The early models of Mustang and John Deere were made by Owatonna, so they might be close in design.
I would differ to holister since he has the same model.
If the plate you have in the pic is oriented opposite to your axle it probably the right one but I can't tell from your pic.The JD24 that I worked on access was through the inspection plate only with chaincases serving as the hydralic reseviours.Maybe this will sound familiar.Scott
Ron, I'm happy to hear someone has a Mustang as old as mine! (1974 Model 1200) I cannot see any photo on your posting. Maybe there is something wrong on my side. Please send the photo to my email address, [email protected] and I can take a look at it. Regarding the chain tightening nuts, I do not recall seeing anything in the manual to describe what to do with these, I just snugged them up to the side plate. I will check the manual when I get home and let you know. If you would like me to give you a call, include your phone number in the email along with the photo and I'll be glad to offer whatever assistance I can. I do have the 1200 Operators and Parts manual which I could photocopy and send to you if you have a fax number. Thanks, Hollister
Ron, I did finally see the photos you posted. Yes, plate A is what you remove to expose the castle nut and cotter pin. I removed the axle shafts on the left side, not the right side as you have shown in the photo. I don't remember if you can unbolt the filter that is in the way of this cover. If you can, it would give you more room to get a bottle jack in that area and press the shaft out. Hollister
hollister, I also have a mustang 1200 i am wondering if you could help me with finding a starter or any part.. thanks
The starter is part of the Wisconsin VH4D engine and should be readily available from a farm implement dealer. I do have a Mustang 1200 service manual which includes a parts diagrams and lists for most parts, but not all. Let me know what you are looking for and I can see what I can dig up.
