can you pull the injectors and lines so you can hook up a line out of the pump with an injector attached to check the spray? I did that when testing them on a Kubota. Hooked up a tube line to number 1 injector delivery nozzle on the pump, hooked an injector to it and cranked it with the injector and line facing down to check the spray, worked a treat!
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
mllud
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2007
- Messages
- 635
Good suggestion, You could mount the injectors upside down in the fuel rack to verify the spray. I dont think the lines have the flexability to have them facing down unless their in the port. I would use caution .
I may try that next time I have a dought about my injectors spray. Mike
skidsteer.ca
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2006
- Messages
- 3,853
Most injection pump shops will crack test you injectors for a vary small fee, It does the same thing Tazza describes but the machine has a guage on it so you can see at what psi they leak (hopefully not) or crack and hopefully spray a nice even mist. I doubt that it though. Unlike enough of them would fail at once, that it won't start (should run on 2 cylinders)
Even if you have low compression it should have responded to the either. Compression that drops quickly is usually only 1 bad cylinder, (bad valve, broken ring, etc) If a motor is plain worn out it will usually run quite a while, starting on one or 2 cylinders then the others cutting in as rpm and heat build up.
I'm thinking injection pump ( where Tazza's idea will tell you if the pump is putting fuel into the engine. though you say there is smoke? which = fuel.
Or timing, something loose or broken in either the cam or the injection pump that is causing lack of compression or other timing problems. A compression test would be the simple way to tell.
Start by trying to conect one or more injectors to a line to verify fuel is being pumped. Don't bend a injector line though. If you can't do this I'd try a compression test next, then pull the injection pump and take it to a shop for testing. (which usually gets spendy)
Ken
Yeah the injector pump is where one of the mechanics I'm talking to thinks the problem may lay. He thinks something may have let go in the injector pump that has thrown off the timing.. I guess I'm just going to focus on trying to get it on a trailer again. Oh and I cracked all the lines a few days ago to make sure all the air was purged and fuel was pumping but I didn't pull the injectors, maybe I'll give that a try. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
Well boys it appears I *may* have found the source of my problems. I woke early today fixated on getting that damn loader on a trailer one way or another but for the hell of it I did the onboard diagnostic tests again, this time with the correct manual and what I thought was a short in the intake preheat system was really a short in the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. So after doing all the tests and making sure I was getting 12+ volts to the Solenoid I pulled it off and took 2 jumper wires and tried to get the solenoid to open but it's either locked open or closed. Anyways, the part is going to run me 140 locally or about 110 off the net. A bit steep for a small solenoid but if it fixes the problem I'll be happy. If anyone knows of a cheap parts site please let me know. The part number is 83981012 and I guess crosses over to a Case loaders as well.
****UPDATE*****I called one of the mechanics I have been talking to and informed him of what was going on and he asked if I was sure the solenoid was bad and after telling him the story he asked if I had the plunger inserted in the solenoid when I checked it, which I didn't, it fell out when I pulled the part and I didn't realize it. After putting the plunger in it and rechecking it, it was operating properly, Soooo, I finally threw in the towel and called a flatbed to haul it off. While waiting for the wrecker I put the solenoid back in and was making room for the wrecker when I said screw it, and tried to start it one last time and wouldn't you know it, it stumbled over choked and ran for a second and stalled out. So naturally I cranked it again and it fired right over!! I then used it for 5 hours straight with no issues. I guess that solenoid was stuck open/closed and it just needed to be disassembled..???? Thanks for all your help and input guys
Glad you got it sorted out, just wish it was a little easier for you to find. I know all too well how frustrating when something won't run and you know there is no reason for it not to.
