m610 keeps wanting to stall under load

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jarrettfikel

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Jun 2, 2016
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23
happens quite often when a load is applied either from lifting or pushing or both at the same time the motor just cuts out . if I stop all applied load the motor will slowly then build back up rpms . sometimes just driving will make it do this . does anyone have any ideas? thanks
 

6brnorma

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Jul 13, 2011
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882
wis 4 cyl gas
OK….then that should be the Wisconsin VH4D engine. That is plenty of engine for that machine and should not bog down under those circumstances. Because I am no 'engine' expert, I would start at the beginning and look at engine compression. If it is ok, I would move on to tune-up, carburetor, etc.
 

skidder58

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Oct 4, 2015
Messages
11
OK….then that should be the Wisconsin VH4D engine. That is plenty of engine for that machine and should not bog down under those circumstances. Because I am no 'engine' expert, I would start at the beginning and look at engine compression. If it is ok, I would move on to tune-up, carburetor, etc.
6brnorma is right. Start at the beginning. compression test first. If that is good, move on to tune up, points, condenser, rotor, cap wires, fuel and air filters.Clean and inspect the carburetor. Check valve adjustment and ignition timing. It could also be a bad governor which automatically increases the throttle when the engine encounters a load. But start with the basics and systematically check these systems before you throw money at parts. Hope this helps. I'm sure the forum can walk you through this as questions arise. This is a great forum.
 
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jarrettfikel

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Jun 2, 2016
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6brnorma is right. Start at the beginning. compression test first. If that is good, move on to tune up, points, condenser, rotor, cap wires, fuel and air filters.Clean and inspect the carburetor. Check valve adjustment and ignition timing. It could also be a bad governor which automatically increases the throttle when the engine encounters a load. But start with the basics and systematically check these systems before you throw money at parts. Hope this helps. I'm sure the forum can walk you through this as questions arise. This is a great forum.
i would like to know more about a bad governor . the motor runs good and i does seam like the governor might have something to do with it .is this a hard fix ?
 

mark18mwm

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Jul 25, 2013
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240
Do You have auxiliary hydraulics? That would be a pedal in between the lift and tilt pedals. If you do, Make sure your pedal isn't pushed one way or the other. It it is pushed all the way it will "lock" on into a detent and be sending hydraulic fluid to a dead end and that puts huge strain on the hyd and engine and can kill it. I have accidentally done it on mine, just step on the pedal one way or the other to get it centered again.
 
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jarrettfikel

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Jun 2, 2016
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Do You have auxiliary hydraulics? That would be a pedal in between the lift and tilt pedals. If you do, Make sure your pedal isn't pushed one way or the other. It it is pushed all the way it will "lock" on into a detent and be sending hydraulic fluid to a dead end and that puts huge strain on the hyd and engine and can kill it. I have accidentally done it on mine, just step on the pedal one way or the other to get it centered again.
yes I have aux hydraulics and I know what your talking about , but that's not it .thanks though.
 
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jarrettfikel

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Jun 2, 2016
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yes I have aux hydraulics and I know what your talking about , but that's not it .thanks though.
it runs strong for awhile then all of a sudden during a sharp turn or lifting a load it will just cut out . but not every time . the longer I run it the more it does it
 

mark18mwm

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Jul 25, 2013
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240
it runs strong for awhile then all of a sudden during a sharp turn or lifting a load it will just cut out . but not every time . the longer I run it the more it does it
If it runs good until it acts up my guess would be electrical, condenser or coil. I have issues with mine that I often have trouble with the condenser. I don't know why but it kind of acts like that. It runs fine then starts acting up for no reason, worse as it gets warmer. When mine does that I change points and condenser and it runs good after that. The points are still good when I change them for this but since I'm in the distributor already I change them. I have no idea why the condenser does that but it's the first thing I look at now when it acts up and they are relativity cheap. You might want to try it, not sure that is your trouble at all, but just a idea
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
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If it runs good until it acts up my guess would be electrical, condenser or coil. I have issues with mine that I often have trouble with the condenser. I don't know why but it kind of acts like that. It runs fine then starts acting up for no reason, worse as it gets warmer. When mine does that I change points and condenser and it runs good after that. The points are still good when I change them for this but since I'm in the distributor already I change them. I have no idea why the condenser does that but it's the first thing I look at now when it acts up and they are relativity cheap. You might want to try it, not sure that is your trouble at all, but just a idea
Check to make sure the mechanical advance in the bottom of the distributor is not rusted and stuck also. Mine was and didn't respond to the the governor as it should. A bad or weak coil will also show up when warm so when it stops next quickly check for spark.
 

gearbox

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Oct 24, 2013
Messages
131
Check to make sure the mechanical advance in the bottom of the distributor is not rusted and stuck also. Mine was and didn't respond to the the governor as it should. A bad or weak coil will also show up when warm so when it stops next quickly check for spark.
If it is hot weather and you are running corn gas you may have a vapor lock problem from the gas boiling . Try it with non oxy 91 octain
 

mmsllc

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Dec 29, 2015
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715
If it is hot weather and you are running corn gas you may have a vapor lock problem from the gas boiling . Try it with non oxy 91 octain
Don't laugh to quickly, but I have seen a dirty secondary filter on a 3.9L cummins bring it to its knees. The really strange thing is that upon close inspection of that filter it looked clean as could be. It literally looked to be as BLUE as the new BLUE filter I put in. I realize that I am referring to a turbo charged cummins diesel engine, but the point is still the same!! When was the last time this engine was serviced? I am asking when the fuel, oil & air filters were replaced, as well as when was the engine oil was changed??All of these filters are of the utmost of importance, yet I see so many machines that go neglected for so long. Can you tell us about the maintenance of this machine? How long have you owned it?
 
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jarrettfikel

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Jun 2, 2016
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23
Don't laugh to quickly, but I have seen a dirty secondary filter on a 3.9L cummins bring it to its knees. The really strange thing is that upon close inspection of that filter it looked clean as could be. It literally looked to be as BLUE as the new BLUE filter I put in. I realize that I am referring to a turbo charged cummins diesel engine, but the point is still the same!! When was the last time this engine was serviced? I am asking when the fuel, oil & air filters were replaced, as well as when was the engine oil was changed??All of these filters are of the utmost of importance, yet I see so many machines that go neglected for so long. Can you tell us about the maintenance of this machine? How long have you owned it?
I bought this a couple yrs ago . when I bought it . it would start and when you moved it would stall . I changed the carb and gasket . solve that problem . I changed the plugs , air cleaner . I change the oil twice a year because of moisture build up .I only put about 20 - 30 hrs a year on it. when I bought it they gave me an invoice for about $4000 in motor and machine work done to it .but it sat for about ten yrs . it does seam like a spark issue because when it cuts out sometimes and stalls it will back fire . so I'm going to start with the condenser , plugs , wires , cap and check the advance in the distributer as this machine is prolly due for this maintaince anyway.after that oil change hydro fluid change and filter .
 

mmsllc

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Dec 29, 2015
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I bought this a couple yrs ago . when I bought it . it would start and when you moved it would stall . I changed the carb and gasket . solve that problem . I changed the plugs , air cleaner . I change the oil twice a year because of moisture build up .I only put about 20 - 30 hrs a year on it. when I bought it they gave me an invoice for about $4000 in motor and machine work done to it .but it sat for about ten yrs . it does seam like a spark issue because when it cuts out sometimes and stalls it will back fire . so I'm going to start with the condenser , plugs , wires , cap and check the advance in the distributer as this machine is prolly due for this maintaince anyway.after that oil change hydro fluid change and filter .
I would check the entire ignition system out, but I would have the carb rebuilt or replaced. When they sit, they go bad quickly. Most of the ignition system parts do not go bad by sitting around, but usually by wearing out from use. Today's gasoline is just straight garbage. With that being said, I would focus on the carb. Checking the compression on the engine & the ignition system will not harm anything, though.
 
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