Lx665 new seat, now no start

[sgf]

This machine was running fine and I installed a new seat. It is just the padded seat. I never replaced or removed the seat pan. I have the two switches under the seat. The manual refers to as "deluxe seat", because there are two. I removed those and installed them on the new seat. I also reconnected the wires. I never removed the seat belt equipment since it is mounted on the seat pan. When I try to start the machine with my seat belt firmly locked in, the seat belt light flashes. If I switch to maint. mode it starts fine. If I flip the maint. mode switch to run, then secure my seat belt, the machine runs fine and will move, but the bucket peddles stay locked so the bucket can't be moved. All of this seems to point to the seat belt switch doesn't it? I don't see broken wires and it is plugged in. Am I missing the obvious here? I figured I'd ask before pulling everything back apart because it is a chore for a guy my size to try to work in that cab.

 

[Mike10]

With the key off and the service/run switch in the run position the instrument panel should light up when you sit in the seat. It appears from your description that is what is happening. When you then latch the seat belt the seat belt light should go off.
If the instrument panel lights in the above configuration then check for power at one of the terminals of the seat belt plug. You must be in the seat. If you have power then the seat switches and harness to the seat belt are ok.
If you have an ohm meter you can check for continuity in the seat belt harness when the seat belt is latched.

 

[sgf]

With the key off and the service/run switch in the run position the instrument panel should light up when you sit in the seat. It appears from your description that is what is happening. When you then latch the seat belt the seat belt light should go off.
If the instrument panel lights in the above configuration then check for power at one of the terminals of the seat belt plug. You must be in the seat. If you have power then the seat switches and harness to the seat belt are ok.
If you have an ohm meter you can check for continuity in the seat belt harness when the seat belt is latched.

What Mike10 said got me thinking. I haven't had this machine long but if memory serves, the panel lights would come on when I sat in the seat, even with the key in the off position. I just went out and tried sitting in the seat and the lights do not come on until I turn the key. Nothing happens when I only sit in the seat. Logic tells me the panel would recognize the operator by the compression of the plunger switches under the seat. Logic also tells me that these switches are there so you can't start the machine in operator mode when the seat is empty. I figured if I disconnected the plug from the switch under the seat, I can then put a wire in the plug creating continuity between the two wires that go to the plug, and in doing so create the circuit as the switch would do. Then I do the same on the other switch. I am guessing all these switches do is allow electricity to flow from one wire to another completing a circuit. I am also guessing they work independently. So I did as described but the panel lights did not come on. I then got a multi meter to read across the two plug contacts. On the first one I got battery voltage. On the second plug I got nothing. So I retested everything and got no voltage from either plug. I then notice a corroded copper contact broken up inside. The second plug doesn't look much better. I am guessing I have to buy that whole harness section, so for now I guess the troubleshooting is on hold.

 

[jerry]

What Mike10 said got me thinking. I haven't had this machine long but if memory serves, the panel lights would come on when I sat in the seat, even with the key in the off position. I just went out and tried sitting in the seat and the lights do not come on until I turn the key. Nothing happens when I only sit in the seat. Logic tells me the panel would recognize the operator by the compression of the plunger switches under the seat. Logic also tells me that these switches are there so you can't start the machine in operator mode when the seat is empty. I figured if I disconnected the plug from the switch under the seat, I can then put a wire in the plug creating continuity between the two wires that go to the plug, and in doing so create the circuit as the switch would do. Then I do the same on the other switch. I am guessing all these switches do is allow electricity to flow from one wire to another completing a circuit. I am also guessing they work independently. So I did as described but the panel lights did not come on. I then got a multi meter to read across the two plug contacts. On the first one I got battery voltage. On the second plug I got nothing. So I retested everything and got no voltage from either plug. I then notice a corroded copper contact broken up inside. The second plug doesn't look much better. I am guessing I have to buy that whole harness section, so for now I guess the troubleshooting is on hold.

The replacement will probably be one switch instead of two. Mine cost about 25 bucks but look at Messick's site they are really close to dealer price just to give you a idea what to expect. I think in the two switch system only one had to make contact to energize the system. If you can fix that contact you will save some money but do not put a jumper in and leave it or it will drain the battery.

 

[sgf]

The replacement will probably be one switch instead of two. Mine cost about 25 bucks but look at Messick's site they are really close to dealer price just to give you a idea what to expect. I think in the two switch system only one had to make contact to energize the system. If you can fix that contact you will save some money but do not put a jumper in and leave it or it will drain the battery.

At Messick's the switch is forty something dollars. What you say about their prices rings true. I was looking for a place online to get good prices on parts but have not found anything yet. I did find the harness and placed a bid but auction sites are hit-and-miss. I have fixed contacts before but these are odd and they only sell the entire harness. My worry is the blade contacts on the switches don't look a lot better. Those simple plunger switches are not cheap. I need to see if I get continuity when I depress them.