Got a new wrinkle today. First stretch of cold weather, went out to push snow. Hydraulics were kind of noisy, so I went to check the fluid. White, foamy stuff was coming out of the filler tube. Can't see how it can be water in the hydro's, as the machine is stored under cover. Never did this when the weather was warm. Pulled the filler neck and pumped the reservoir dry. Fluid looked like beer, so there must be air getting in somewhere. Going to replace the hydro fluid with regular (cheap) hydro oil with anti- foaming additive until I can find the trouble. Any suggestions on where to look? Can't see any obvious leaks. Thanks.
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If it foamed that high it must be air bubbles not water. Water makes it milky color. Did you set some aside to settle out ? Water will go to the bottom air will gradually come out. If it is cold enough for snow any water in it should have been frozen in the bottom of the tank I would think. I have no idea where the air could be from, would have to be on the suction side of things.
Check the filter to make sure it is tight.
I put some into a clear jar, and it settled out clean, so it's definitely air. The filter on the vent cap on the reservoir itself was filthy and caked with dirt. Cleaned it off as best I could, and loosened the little screw in the top to let some air in. My theory being if the breather wasn't "breathin", that the oil being cold and viscous and slow to flow, the suction line might be starved for fluid and drawing air in through the pump seals. Kind of like putting your thumb over the end of a straw. I dunno. Good a theory as any. Seems to work so far, but I haven't worked the machine hard yet.
Planenut99
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Just in case you are still looking for an answer or someone else is: The case drain system on the hydrostatic motors and hydrostatic pumps operate at a negative presure (slight vacuum). Any leak in the drain lines will suck air and cause foaming. There is a chafe spot on a steel drain line about in the middle bottom of the machine that can also allow air in and surprisingly these lines don't always leak oil. Good luck! Jeff
What are you using for hydraulic fluid? My Deere specifies Diesel engine oil. If that's true of your machine, make sure your oil meets current specs (CJ4 is the latest), as the antifoam properties are improved. International (and probably Ford) dealers should have an oil suppliment that can reduce foaming also. I know it was out there when the Heui fuel system was first introduced and there was alot of junk oil on the market. I'd agree that you should look for intake (suction) restrictions and make sure your oil viscosity is correct for your ambient operating temperatures. Alan
Got'er whipped. After pulling the covers, tracing the lines and not finding any evidence of leaks, I took a big screwdriver to double check the tightness of the suction hose clamps. Seemed tight enough, but got another 1/2 turn using a 5/32" socket. No foaming since. Sometimes it's the simple things...
skidsteer.ca
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In my experience, often the fix is simple, the tough part is hunting it down!
Ken
I have the same problem with my LX 665. Ran fine in the summer, got cold and had foamy oil flowing out of the filler tube? So are you still convinced tightening that hose fixed your problem?
It was the last thing I did, and the problem went away. Check your breather cap too.
were the hydraulics real slow when you had foamy fluid?
Actually, no. Hydraulics might have been a little jerky at first, probably from air in the system, but not slow. Sounds to me like you've got an air infiltration problem somewhere. If not the hoses, then maybe the pump seals.
how can i trouble shoot to detrermine if it is the seals? if i have to bring it to the shop is it a big job? any idea what it might cost?
skidsteer.ca
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cost at a dealer, tough to say......
Check all the hose and hose conections over real close, especially where the hose rubs something. Remember its only the ones on the suction side of the hydraulic pump. Falling that pull the hydraulic pump off and check to see if the shaft is tight and if there is any scoring inside. It would be cheaper to try a new pump then to take it to the dealer likely. You may also be able to just put a seal in the pump if it looks good for wear.
You feel the hydraulics skip only right after start up? Because as the oil warms and thins the pump has a easier time sucking it up. does the foam get less as it warms?
Ken
its getting worse. the bucket will barely go up and the bubbles in the foam that gurgles out the fill tube are getting bigger. What hoses, etc are considered on the "suction side" of the pump? and why does it get foamy right away? all i have to do is start it, i dont even work the boom or move anything.
www.messicks.com has an on-line parts schematic for the machine under its parts section. Just type in your model number and take a look at the hydraulics section. The lines going to the control valves are pressure lines, those coming from the reservoir to feed the pumps are suction lines. If yours foams up that quick it might also be the hydrostatic pump feed.
Have you tried pressurizing the hyd tank without the engine running to see if a suction hose has a loose connection? You shouldn't need much pressure if it is sucking air that bad.
Pulled the hose with the connectors off the bottom of the hyd tank and found a pretty big wear spot on the bottom of it. going to replace it today. keeping my fingers crossed....
skidsteer.ca
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Was the wear spot a hole through the hose? Sounds like your air leak is much worse then Chips because the boom is slow.
It bubbles right away because the pump circulates oil as soon as the motor is started, regardless of weather your direct the flow to the boom or bucket with the foot pedals or not, the oil still goes around the loop back to the tank where the bubbles rise out.
Here is the NH manual for a 160 170 which is the new model # for your lx565
It has a trouble shooting section.
If there was a hole in the hose your found it, if not keep looking. If there are no bad hoses then you may need to pull the forward pump off and take it to a repair shop to inspect the guts for wear and replace the input drive shaft seal if the guts are good
